LR3 Air to coil tips to reconnect lower strut bolt

[bc_burb]

Looking for some advice from anyone who has successfully wrestled to install the AB +2" heavy duty coils. I had a failed first attempt last night and looking for some inspiration before tackling it again.

The first issue is the lower strut mounting hole is misaligned. How much force is needed to align it by putting a bar through it? I don't want to mess anything up, but it seems tight.

Following the AB video I tried unsuccessfully to lower the scissor jack with an axle stand under the strut to compress it. Both times the strut does appear to compress, it just moves too far forward.

Before I set to with a 5ft pipe, is there much to be gained from removing the lower sway bar link and any other suggestions?

After weeks trying to correct EAS problems, I am so looking forward to getting this job done!

 

[NASDIESEL]

I'm mid-way with the install myself on my DD LR3. I'm having other issues with rusty rear strut top hardware. Nightmare right now.

Are you talking about the front or rears or both? On the fronts, I used 4ft pry bar between the bottom of the spring mount, over top of the brake disc and put enough weight to pull down the a-arm to align it for the bolt to pass through. Once the arm drops down, I kept weight on it and used a flat head screw driver to adjust the orientation of the shock bushing so it was 'open' enough for the bolt to enter. If that makes sense.

 

[Glapin]

I did mine on my 06 LR3. Disconnecting the sway bar connect does help buy you a little more room. I then had my 250 lbs. buddy step on the top of the disk and was able to slide the bolt back in. The rears took a bounce or two but we made it work. Also, don't tighten the top strut tower nuts before you get the lower bolt back through the control arms and strut bottom. Then tighten em all up good. Hope it works.

 

[bc_burb]

Thanks for the encouragement. Coming back to it fresh, I realized I was applying force between the upper and lower control arms. Switched to the top and It looks like it will work. Just waiting for an assistant to pop the bolt through. Then on to installing the rear. Having a hefty buddy comes in handy lol.

Nasdiesel, are you just having problems with the inner hardware? Your options are limited beyond repeated soaking with PB blaster or similar. I hope you have better luck going back to it.

 

[bc_burb]

all good with the front pair. I will tackle bolting the rears up tomorrow

 

[NASDIESEL]

Yes, was having issues with the hardware on the top of the rears, back bolt/nut were completely rusted solid and deteriorated. Spent hours using cutoff wheels and sawzall to cut the rear air bags apart then the top plate of the air bag assembly. Finished 1:30am this morning... ;-)

Rear shocks went in with undoing the sway bar link and a little weight on the rotor, no problem.

 

[bc_burb]

I am pleased things worked out. There is not a lot else you could do if the hardware was that rusted. What a mess!

I am pleased to say mine is also now done! I have so many jobs I would have liked to be doing over the past few weeks spent fault-finding on the EAS and trying to sort the suspen out.

Happy with the ride, I just have to convince my better half that she will get used to the 2" lift lol

 

[Victory_Overland]

Little trick I like is loosen all of the control arm bolts (upper and lower) and disconnect the sway brace links from both sides. disconnect the upper ball joint so the hub is free but it needs to be supported so the axle doesn't pull out or you over-extend everything. Once the shock is installed and the hub is supported, use the weight of the vehicle as you lower the jack to align the upper balljoint. Don't torque everything to spec until the vehicle is resting on all four wheels off the jack stands.

Works every time, all the time!