LR3 and new battery with fridge freezer

[JimBiram]

Has anyone experienced this? I just replaced my batter with a new Sears Diehard...the advanced one. For some reason, I can't run my Whnter 45 qt fridge off the cigarette light for more than 30 minutes before the fridge stops cooling. It's on, but no cooling. Yet, when I use the 110 volt cord on an inverter, it runs fine. I can't tell if it's due to the voltage of the new battery, or if it's the fridge itself.

My suspicion is that the battery puts out 13.1 volts, and perhaps the low voltage sensor in the fridge is malfunctioning. This didn't happen with my old battery, which was an Interstate. Possible solutions?


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[unseenone]

Do you have a voltmeter?

From the manual;
DC input power
When attempting to plug your portable freezer into a standard 12 V
socket, the unit will not work if socket has a voltage of less than 10.4 V.
The unit will restart when the voltage is 11.8V or greater.

Based on my own experience with accessory draws, on a 2nd battery.

I wouldn't suggest running your fridge off the primary battery when the engine is off. Have you considered adding a 2nd battery? I have stuck with the Interstate, but run the fridge, ham, etc. on the spare battery, separated by a Traxide system.

Also, all the outlets on the LR3 are not normally powered unless you've bypassed that. It draws 4.5 amps.

Let me know if you want details on how to setup a 2nd battery.

 

[pugslyyy]

Assuming this is an ARB/Engel type fridge, they are notoriously picky about the DC voltage that they receive - not enough and they won't work. Measuring open circuit voltage isn't enough, you have to measure it under load.

I'd be checking the connections and battery terminals. How is the outlet run - directly from the battery? If so something could be loose from the battery swap.

Failing that, the new battery is an AGM, right? Slightly different charging profile, etc - maybe something isn't exactly right.

 

[spikemd]

You should run a dedicated 10g wire from the battery to the rear compartment and ideally a fusebox. From the fusebox, put in a few 12v cigarette plus and wire in an inverter. A project I need to do on my new LR3. The OEM wiring just won't hold up and that Wynter draws a lot of power. Also, you will find the cigarette plugs fall out on the trail. I changed my wiring to Anderson Poweplugs and they don't come apart now. If you are running it off your primary battery, be sure you bring jumper battery pack just in case. ExpeditionExchange sells a really cool small jumper batterypack.

 

[unseenone]

The installation pictured below is on two separate power runs.

More here if you can use it.

 

[JimBiram]

Thanks for the suggestions all...I like the idea of a 20 amp circuit to the battery with separate fuse, instead of running through the LR3 fuseblock. I've also been experiencing a wierd Body Control Fault as well, which I can't clear with my IID Tool...
Body Control B1C57-14 (2F) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open

I don't know if I was having this fault before or after the new battery. May have to run it to dealer to try to get some clues. Will post up when I have more answers.

 

[SteveMfr]

Hi Jim,
If your battery is really putting out 13.1V you have something rather unique... LOL
12.6V at rest when a lead acid battery is completely full.

If you are not experiencing any low-voltage symptoms with the vehicle, I would prob look elsewhere for a prob that keeps the fridge from running. Check with a voltmeter tho.

The fault code you mention is one of several very common faults on the LR3. If there are no other symptoms I would not worry.

Regards,
Steve

 

[mpinco]

Suspect you are at the knee of the curve, in this case the knee of the Whnter 45 qt fridge operational spec. Per their web page that frig requires 4.5amps at 12VDC. A cigarette lighter is fragile, made for occasional use. The internals are spring loaded and only intended to continuously carry no more than 1 or 2 amps. They may be fused for 15amp but that is only short duration, intermittent load. Under continuous load the contacts will become warm, contact resistance will rise and supplied voltage will drop. Under high enough load the end result is a fire.

Note that Land Rover trailer wiring harnesses do not include a "charge" wire. They do provide 12V but if you follow the 12V wire to the left rear access the wire gauge is small. So, time to add 8ga and appropriate fuses to the LR3. Recommend straight off battery, to a fuse block in the engine compartment, along frame rails to rear, up into access panel, then add a real connector for 12V at 20a.

 

[racehorse]

Jim,
I hardwired my edgestar with 8 gauge. If you ever want to take a look let me know - I'm home in SJC most weekends, probably a 10 min drive from you. I was having the same issues you were until I hardwired it. Maybe the voltage loss is the issue.
mike c.

 

[spikemd]

10g wire to BlueSea fusebox wired to 12v cigarette plugs and Anderson PowerPole plugs to the fridge through a modified fridge cable. My Goal Zero Extreme 350 has Anderson plugs as well for a direct connection and it runs my fridge overnight or in camp on solar. I don't need a dual battery system with my Goal Zero and it is more portable.


Pics are from my P38 Range Rover and I need to do something similar for my LR3.

 

[unseenone]

Nice setup... the pictures I posted show an LR3. PM me for more details on the install if you want more info, etc.

 

[spikemd]

Nice setup... the pictures I posted show an LR3. PM me for more details on the install if you want more info, etc.

I like your set-up. Is that a 'locking' 12v plug? I missed it the first time, but are those some Anderson PowerPole plugs in the fusebox?

I just ordered up another BlueSea fusebox and Anderson plugs for the LR3 install. I like how you tucked them under the panel out of the way. Is that the drivers or passengers side?

Was it difficult running a wire from the battery to the rear compartment? Where did you go through the firewall? Thanks.

 

[unseenone]

The Anderson powerpole is mounted in the rear, just to the right of the marine plugs. Yes, they are locking plugs, better than most options, but flimsy. The mounting position is key to keep things for interfering with your load space.

The mounting is on the drivers side. Where the holes are, is the only spot they will clear behind it, so gauge it correctly before you drill.

There is a small rubber plug, just under the brake booster that will get you into the cab. It's really hard to get to. You should remove the plug, and use a drill, dremel or cutter to made a hole, just under you're wire size. Then use a screwdriver to punch through the carpet in the cabin, from the plug side in the engine compartment. Feed a thin wire through, as a guide, then you can attach and feed the big wire through. Once started, feed enough wire through to get to the rear of the vehicle, and some to spare.
The kick plates will come off, some fiddling with the center door facia to get it off and out of the way. Be careful to not lose any of the snaps on the door / kick faceplate, if you do, you can fish them out, but it's a pain. Under there, you will find wire runs, this is a great place to run your wire. At the end of the rear doors, you can fish under and through the rear trim, to the rear cover, where you'll do your wiring, buttons, etc.

I put in two separate runs, one for each set of plugs. This was a handy way to do it, and I like it. All wires are fused +- and Anderson'd at the battery end, so if you get a short, you are protected. There is also a low / high voltage cut off installed at the battery on each run.

I've got more pictures if it helps.. Start with these links, it shows the mounting positions / location in Ham install. If you need more drop me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send you my info / number.

Traxide Install http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=21899
Ham Install http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=26194
Winch Install http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=21898

 

[JimBiram]

Update: turns out the 12/110 volt power controller was going bad. Eventually 12 volt stopped working altogether. Contacted Whynter and they were nice enough to extend the warranty a couple of months. Even offered to exchange fridge but I had them send me the part. 35 minutes and voila! Thanks all for your ideas as I will be putting in a more permanent 12 volt connection instead of cig lighter.


Every Day is a Good Day Surfing...Some are just Better Than Others

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[spikemd]

Thanks. I need to wire a few things into the LR3: Anderson plugs, accessory plugs, USB plugs and eventually a HAM like my P38. Thanks for the tips on running the wires. Right now I don't even have an accessory plug in the rear.