LR3 Buying Advice

brdl04

New member
Parts are readily available on Ebay and they are straight forward to work on. V8 is always the better motor but of course a little thirstier.. Ownership experience is second to none and the ride quality is just un-beatable. I just drove across the states in mine and could not help but smile and the end of each day at how brilliantly the LR3 dealt with the various conditions.

Best 4x4 on the road, and in the field. I cannot wait to take a run in the 5.0 motor.

good luck with your search


Thats what Im seeing and tend to believe. I do my own work on the vehicles I've owned (ex. Suspension upgrades, timing belt replacements, head gaskets etc.) Parts seem to be similar in price as the CRD Jeep I had previously.

I cant wait to get my first rover.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
If you do plan to offroad, I do highly suggest you find an LR3 with the HD package so you get the rear diff lock and the full size spare.

This is not at all necessary anymore since ARB has finally produced air lockers for the LR3. Personally I think it is a better solution as well. Now it allows someone to eliminate that rare factory option in favor of many other preferences a person may have.

The sunroof clog is an easy fix.
 

perkj

Explorer
This is not at all necessary anymore since ARB has finally produced air lockers for the LR3. Personally I think it is a better solution as well. Now it allows someone to eliminate that rare factory option in favor of many other preferences a person may have.

The sunroof clog is an easy fix.

I agree the ARB may be a preferred option given that it allows you total control over the locker....you control when to engage/disengage the locker. Though the factory locker auto engages only when its needed and is a progressive locker as well. Factory locker makes for one less thing to have to think about...if the computer feels it needs some lock, it'll just engage it on the fly.

The BIG down side to the ARB rear locker is cost. LR3s with the HD package on the used market can be had for the price as a LR3 without the HD package as most people don't even know what the HD package or a rear locker is. I would guess an ARB rear locker installed in a LR3 would run well above $2K then there is the cost of the air compressor too which would run another $200-300.

At the end of the day, I'd still strongly recommend being patient and look for a LR3 with the HD Package and use the money you would have spent on an ARB rear locker to get a nice set of tires and rock sliders.
 

brdl04

New member
*****UPDATE*****

Found a 2007 V8 SE Loaded

97,000 miles.

Test drove it yesterday and interior and exterior is very clean. Im meticulous about cars and I am impressed on the cleanliness. Upon test drive, both trans and engine perform great. Everything is smooth.

2 Things.....

I noticed the infamous lower control arm clunk when breaking fast, and hitting bumps. (dealer agreed to have it replaced before purchase)

2. Noticed shake in steering wheel at 55-65mph. Is this related to above? Or another issue?

Overall he quoted me $16,300, Mileage i am somewhat concerned about, but this was serviced at a LR dealer its entire life. 2 owners (1 owner for 80k and since 2008)

Thoughts? Decent deal?
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Brdl04, the 2007 is a great year. The shimmy is due to worn tires (cupping, asymmetrical wear, etc...) or perhaps it's still sporting original style GoodForOneYear Wrangler HP's. Plan on buying better tires as part of the price.

I don't have an opinion on price, but state that you want ALL bushings replaced. At 100,000 miles, it's due. This includes swaybar bushings too. I would also ask to confirm that all TSB actions have been performed, including has tank related items. Finally, might as well ask for a fresh software pack and memory refresh.

Normal stuff like brakes are very straightforward and can be easily done at hm, but you could ask to see the current condition or negotiate new pads
 

brdl04

New member
Brdl04, the 2007 is a great year. The shimmy is due to worn tires (cupping, asymmetrical wear, etc...) or perhaps it's still sporting original style GoodForOneYear Wrangler HP's. Plan on buying better tires as part of the price.

I don't have an opinion on price, but state that you want ALL bushings replaced. At 100,000 miles, it's due. This includes swaybar bushings too. I would also ask to confirm that all TSB actions have been performed, including has tank related items. Finally, might as well ask for a fresh software pack and memory refresh.

Normal stuff like brakes are very straightforward and can be easily done at hm, but you could ask to see the current condition or negotiate new pads

nwoods,

you have been more than helpful. I also appreciate your write ups. I feel pretty good about this purchase, especially since they are open to replacing the bushings included in the $16k price point.
 

brickpaul65

Adventurer
nwoods,

Any good bushing kit recommendations? A full replacement set would be nice. I know Atlantic British offers a kit but I don't know if that is the firmness we would want or if it is all of the bushings you are recommending.

Brdl04, the 2007 is a great year. The shimmy is due to worn tires (cupping, asymmetrical wear, etc...) or perhaps it's still sporting original style GoodForOneYear Wrangler HP's. Plan on buying better tires as part of the price.

I don't have an opinion on price, but state that you want ALL bushings replaced. At 100,000 miles, it's due. This includes swaybar bushings too. I would also ask to confirm that all TSB actions have been performed, including has tank related items. Finally, might as well ask for a fresh software pack and memory refresh.

Normal stuff like brakes are very straightforward and can be easily done at hm, but you could ask to see the current condition or negotiate new pads
 

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