Jwestpro
Explorer
Why would you want to or need to roll 1/2” higher all the time? You loose ideal suspension travel by doing so but to gain nothing except looks. Are we missing a more purposeful reason?
What size tire are you trying to use?
LR3/LR4 owners: What height do you set your suspension?
- Thread starter Blaise
- Start date
Why would you want to or need to roll 1/2” higher all the time? You loose ideal suspension travel by doing so but to gain nothing except looks. Are we missing a more purposeful reason?
What size tire are you trying to use?
krick3tt
Adventurer
I have not lost suspension travel as that small amount of lift is going to allow for more ability to travel forest service and off road trails with a bit more ease as I air down and lose the achieved height through the GAP tool in decreased tire lift. Using something like Johnson rods would give me the same thing but add a bit of cost and only change the material from plastic to metal.
I still have the ability to change the parameters of the vehicle with the GAP tool to achieve more or less lift as required as well as altering the vehicle heights of one or two tires to compensate for off camber trails or uneven ground to allow for better sleeping arrangement.
I also still am able to enter my garage as the access height incorporated into the vehicle factory parameters has not changed and if required I can use the lock feature to allow the access height to be maintained even while on road.
There are so many features incorporated into these vehicles that it boggles the mind and as I gain more knowledge of them it only makes my driving experience that much more the richer.
I appreciate your concern for the possible negative aspects of changing the height but it will have no negatives and was not done to look cool as driving a LR3 already puts me in a category of cool far beyond the average vehicle.
I still have the ability to change the parameters of the vehicle with the GAP tool to achieve more or less lift as required as well as altering the vehicle heights of one or two tires to compensate for off camber trails or uneven ground to allow for better sleeping arrangement.
I also still am able to enter my garage as the access height incorporated into the vehicle factory parameters has not changed and if required I can use the lock feature to allow the access height to be maintained even while on road.
There are so many features incorporated into these vehicles that it boggles the mind and as I gain more knowledge of them it only makes my driving experience that much more the richer.
I appreciate your concern for the possible negative aspects of changing the height but it will have no negatives and was not done to look cool as driving a LR3 already puts me in a category of cool far beyond the average vehicle.
TOUGE
Active member
Using the GAP tool to adjust hight changes every pre-programmed hight including access hight. Your access hight is now 1/2 inch taller, so is offroad mode. Changing the hight using a GAP tool is just the software way of using lift rods, all you are doing is tricking the suspension computer to think it's higher or lower than it really is.
Even changing the hight 1/2inch will put your wheel alignment out, it would be ideal to get it realigned at that hight if you are going to leave it there.
for non-sya trucks locally (2 of my friends specifically), all we did to clear the 275mm tire was lift it 10mm via the gap tool. No need for anything more and the trucks maintain all normal modes.
For mine (SYA Kit + lift rods) I recentered the shocks at +/- 0 via adding 50mm to the stock ride height 465 and 485mm as taken from the centerline of the axle to the fender and calibrated my truck on that - same as Jwestpro. Doing this you do loose access height but i have another program on the gap tool that allows me drop it on the fly for parking and what not... my truck has a rack and awning so pretty tall.
YMMV
For mine (SYA Kit + lift rods) I recentered the shocks at +/- 0 via adding 50mm to the stock ride height 465 and 485mm as taken from the centerline of the axle to the fender and calibrated my truck on that - same as Jwestpro. Doing this you do loose access height but i have another program on the gap tool that allows me drop it on the fly for parking and what not... my truck has a rack and awning so pretty tall.
YMMV
Jwestpro
Explorer
You have, in fact, lost 1/2” of suspension extension by setting the height there. Rolling the fire roads is one thing, no big deal, but theres no need for that all the time.
You can save the setting and just go to its +12.5mm when needed, which is never (lol)
If taking the time to drop tire psi, you have the time to set suspension higher. I can understand the desire to have a little extra when rolling 25-30 mph on those roads because the system will lower you over and over tagging 30 which is annoying and causes compressor to keep working more.
So, I would suggest to anyone else, drive highways at zero but add some, like 20mm, whenever you’ll take the time to lower tire psi. This avoids all alignment questions and retains ideal suspension dynamics on the highway at 70-80 mph.
Jwestpro
Explorer
Do you still have this vehicle or do you remember the GAP program? I am annoyed with not being able to get into slammed height when desired for parking garages without the system trying to automatically lift back up to extended height because it's sensing a bottoming on the strut bump stops.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
@Jwestpro is that +20mm for your new "off-road" height you set with GAP to keep you away from using the OEM off-road height and having the 30mph limit? I want to set an off-road height for Victory that allows me factory-ish ride quality for 90% of my driving and then only need the extended clearance for Rock-Crawling Mode and Off-Road height.
Hope that makes sense?
Hope that makes sense?
Jwestpro
Explorer
No, I don't think you followed what I wrote somewhere else or I'm just confused here. I don't use the GAP tool to preset any factory height but I am also unclear on what you're asking because I have never mentioned using a +20mm. The only 20mm mode I have is minus (-20mm) via the LLAMS switch to lower by 20mm.
I only use the GAP tool to calibrate the system to proper hub to fender gaps. For me that is factory +50mm to account for the strut spacers. If I didn't have the LLAMS tool, I would probably have a couple pre-set heights with one like you mention for a little higher on off pavement and maybe one at -20 for garage clearance.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Tracking; Gracias Amigo
NorthBoundLR3
New member
JWest, appreciate your contributions to the board. It's obvious you know what you're talking about. Apologies in advance for dragging you back to this post, but to confirm--
Hub calibration is necessary when adding the Lucky8 PR SYA strut spacers, correct? I have the shop doing some trimming currently to accommodate a 275mm x 33" tire. I'm outfitting this on a '12 LR4.