LR3 | LR4 | RRS Steering Wheel Play: What's normal?

[Derel1cte]

Hi All -

I have a 2005 LR3 with 185K miles. I recently replaced the steering intermediate shaft because the lower U joint in it was seized and causing the steering to feel reallly heavy and lumpy. Anyway. I replaced the shaft with an aftermarket one since it was 1/3 the price of OEM and there are litterally 2 moving parts so I didn't think it would be an issue.

So now that it is all back together the steering is much better but there is 1 1/8" of play in the wheel. I have confirmed the play is in the sliding mechanism of the shaft since U joint at the base of the steering column moves when i shake the wheel and I can see the upper part of the intermediate shaft moving, but that movement does not translate into the lower U joint or the rack itself.

I feel like I'm going a little crazy. did it always have ~1" of play, or is the new part I put in a dud. Can someone check their rig? LR3, LR4, and RRS L320 all have the same setup so I'm curious how much movement people have in a low miles Rover.

TLDR: Is 1" of steering wheel play normal?

 

[Victory_Overland]

The rack won't move unless there is pressure (or at least it should not) so unless the truck is running the PS pump is providing pressure to the rack, you really are inducing unnecessary stress on the steering shaft. Power assisted steering so you can steer without pump pressure but not recommended unless the wheels are moving to reduce stress on the shaft.

I have 1/2 - 1" with the truck off and the steering unlocked but that varies.

On that note, when I flushed my PS fluid a few thousand miles ago, the change in steering authority and accuracy of the wheel to input was night and day; I may as well had water in there! hahaha

 

[Derel1cte]

Yeah. It’s not that. All new fluid. Play in the wheel when running. Even elevated the front wheels. I can shake the steering wheel and the tires don’t move. New OEM intermediate shaft time I think.

 

[Victory_Overland]

keep us posted cuz I am curious to see what you come up with so we can keep our feelers out for the same issues!

 

[BikePilot]

Virtually zero play in my LR4 with 106k miles. I agree that what you are experiencing is not normal. Good luck sorting it!

 

[Derel1cte]

Confirmed. It is the intermediate shaft causing the dead zone in the steering. I was able to remove the non-oem part i recently installed last night and found that I could twist it a few degrees by hand. I pulled the two pieces apart and found that the shim/bushing plates used between the two pieces seem to be a bit too thin. That or the upper part is yoked out. If i were in a pinch money wise I could probably "repair" this by giving the upper shaft a good squeeze in my vice to tighten it up but I think the OEM replacement arriving today should take care of my problem.

 

[Victory_Overland]

Awesome news! I wouldn't pinch in, if this non-oem part has play in it, who knows what kind of metal they used and if its pot metal on the clevis, pinching it could case failure down the road.

Great find and way to stick with it. Maybe put the manufacturing and part number down so none of us make the same purchase down the road.

Rover on my friend, Rover on!

 

[Derel1cte]

All fixed! New shaft cleared up all the slack in the wheel. Now the steering is light and very responsive!

The OEM part LR071147 is pictured here:

The bad part is here. I couldn't find a part number on it. The original steering shaft was seized at the U joint causing the steering to feel very heavy and lumpy. The new non OE shaft had very loose bushing shims causing it to twist.