LR3 maintenance time

[cannonball55]

Been having these repeat codes for the past few months. I guess it's time to dig in with the tax return.. Where to start?

Instrument pack
U0132 lost comm with ride level control module
U0159 lost comm with parking brake assist control module
U0127 lost comm with tpms

Suspension
C1A20 pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir

Vehicle dynamic
U0132 lost comm with ride level control module

Ventilation
B1B74 front foot defrost mode stepper actuator
B1B75 front foot face mode stepper actuator
B1B76 front left air blend stepper actuator
B1B77 front right air blend stepper actuator
B1B82 unknown
B1B83 unknown

...had some audio amplifier bus codes too I forgot to write down before clearing...

Also needs bushings and front rotors too. Spring break will be busy!

 

[bentonrover]

I personally would try clearing and see what else happens. Gap tool?

 

[cannonball55]

Oh yes. I have a gap tool. I should have said I have cleared them repeatedly. Suspension code is intermittent, but definitely an issue needing addressing. The others I don't particularly notice besides seeing the codes before I clear them.

 

[Mack73]

And battery, when was that last replaced?

 

[cannonball55]

Has your compressor ever been replaced or serviced? The suspension error that you're getting is a classic sign of an aging compressor. What happens is that the silica desiccant gets saturated and eventually breaks down into a fine dust over time. This fine dust then clogs the filter in the compressor dryer resulting in decreased airflow and increased reservoir filling times. Of course, there are others factors as well such as the piston sealing ring wearing down over time that contribute to reduced output from the compressor. There are kits available on the Internet (e.g.on eBay) that address all of these issues, but you have to take the compressor out yourself and open it up. Not too difficult... One of the kits that I know of is from X8R. Left too long, this silica dust can clog your air lines and the valve block seals, so the drier desiccant replacement should really be a maintenance item that is done every 4 years or so.

This has just been added to the list. I'm going to look for leaks first (I've noticed a small drop in the right rear over night)

And battery, when was that last replaced?

Before I purchased it 3 years ago. Also having intermittent alarm issues. Maybe I should do the battery then look into some of the misc codes.

 

[bentonrover]

Classic brake light switch possibility

 

[Mack73]

Classic brake light switch possibility

Yeah that too. Personally I would swap the battery, swap the brake light switch (cheap and takes 5 minutes) and check all the brake lights to see if any are out. Then reset the codes and see what happens. All 3 of those can cause all sorts of funky errors.
.
The rule of thumb is the more codes the less likely there is to be a real problem

 

[cannonball55]

I'm finally getting around to start working on this. I'm going to start with the battery and suspension, none of my brake lights are out for certain but i'll check codes after the battery swap and decide if im going to do the brake light switch.

what kind of battery is a suitable replacement?

 

[proper4wd]

Interstate is the OEM supplied by the dealers. It's a fine battery. I think about 950CCA?

With regards to your intermittent alarm issue, it could likely be the hood switch.

Agreed on the air compressor beginning to die (C1A20 pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir). Are you getting the EAS warning lamp?

About the lost comms faults... that is typical of low system voltage (bad battery causing low voltage on startup). Usually it would affect all systems on a given bus and would store faults in multiple modules.

Honestly, having a few random lost comms faults is no major concern. Every Rover throws them it seems. I'd change the battery (3 years is about regular maintenance on one of those) and thats probably it. If the eas compressor is dying, letting it go farther until it at least starts illuminating the fault lamp isn't going to hurt anything. Once it gets to that point, change it. Also check the software version on the EAS module.

 

[cannonball55]

Interstate is the OEM supplied by the dealers. It's a fine battery. I think about 950CCA?

With regards to your intermittent alarm issue, it could likely be the hood switch.

Agreed on the air compressor beginning to die (C1A20 pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir). Are you getting the EAS warning lamp?

About the lost comms faults... that is typical of low system voltage (bad battery causing low voltage on startup). Usually it would affect all systems on a given bus and would store faults in multiple modules.

Honestly, having a few random lost comms faults is no major concern. Every Rover throws them it seems. I'd change the battery (3 years is about regular maintenance on one of those) and thats probably it. If the eas compressor is dying, letting it go farther until it at least starts illuminating the fault lamp isn't going to hurt anything. Once it gets to that point, change it. Also check the software version on the EAS module.

I am getting the warning lamp, and the standard height only message. the rear sag completely drops the right rear in a day or so. so i'm gonna look for leaks when its on the rack for the rotors and suspension. how do i check the software version?

 

[cannonball55]

the interstate battery that comes up when i search on the interstate site shows only 730cca... am i doing something wrong?

 

[srschick]

Is the compressor running (near) constant? messages that the height is raising slowly? a sign it may need "refreshing".

looks like Lucky8 will soon offer a refresh kit for the Hitachi compressor. There are also some available on ebay.

 

[proper4wd]

Change the battery and compressor... software version should be able to be checked using your diag tool. Not familair with the intricacies of each one though.

With regards to battery, my memory may be off. The OEM battery is huge (massive reserve capacity) and there really isn't any opportunity for upgrade short of going to dual batteries. Just replace with OEM fitment from a quality battery manufacturer.

 

[cannonball55]

Got the Battery changed out last week, and finally received the arms and everything else i needed to install. I'm taking it in today to the auto hobby shop on base to knock out the control arms. I've been looking for torques and more general information regarding the installation of control arms. does anyone have a source for the torques needed and general instructions? I've found all the brake information i need to replace the front rotors and pads which is on my list today as well. any help would be appreciated! thanks!