LR3 questions

[dusmw]

Just bought a 2006 LR3 S.E. from my mom, one owner 61K miles. Cold weather pkg, leather, and Sirius radio as options.

What are the two iron weights in the back near the frame between the spare and the exhaust for?

Looks like it takes a special draw bar for a hitch, any suggestions on where to find one?

Rover dealer has done all the maintenance to date, guess I will have to get up to speed on this vehicle. It is out of place as Wranglers take up most of the garage an driveway!

 

[Silmarillion]

My first thought was they didn't want fuel economy to be too high, so they added more weight! Other guesses were vibration dampeners.

 

[Silmarillion]

PS welcome! I love my 2006 LR3. 111k miles on it! I've fixed a few parts here and there too - this forum will give you great support!

 

[JimBiram]

Yes, vibration dampeners. Check if there is a hitch...if it has the heavy duty package, the hitch receivable with it. Otherwise go on EBay to find one. My LR3 has it stored in left rear inside quarterpanel.


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[LR Max]

Yes the hitch is removable. Actually kinda nice. Going rate on Ebay is ~$350-400 currently. There are two styles. One that looks long and one that looks short. Get a short one. The longer one apparently isn't as strong.

X2 on checking to see if its in there.

Keep up on fluid and filter changes. Except for the transmission, its pretty easy. Good filters and wipers are available on rock auto. Look elsewhere for info on diff fluid. Transfer case takes special fluid, bite the bullet and get OEM. Transmission is kinda a pain, I'd pay someone to do it.

Big service intervals at 30k and 60k. Change engine oil and filter at 5k. If you can live with that, the vehicle will last another 200k without many problems. I just did a road trip with my LR3. Finally, after 2500 miles, the engine oil stopped looking brand new. Engine has 122k on it.

 

[dusmw]

Thanks guys appreciate the suggestions and feedback!

 

[Swedjen]

I know a guy who has over 350K on his 2006. You have to stay on top of the fluid changes as LR MAX says. Synthetic oil for the engine. MAKE SURE you change the coolant. Do Not exceed service intervals, change fluids 10-20 percent sooner than the manual says. Cheapest insurance you'll find.

 

[Blaise]

I did the trans fluid myself this past weekend. Took 6 hours. I really don't think it was bad. Drive it on ramps, put it to extended height, and get started. Only tricky part was getting the bracket for the heatshield on the pan off and on back on - I found that using the slightly shorter screw from the heatshield itself made it a ton easier.

I still gotta do the coolant but can't figure out what the recommended stuff is. Sigh.

 

[eloist]

I still gotta do the coolant but can't figure out what the recommended stuff is. Sigh.

OEM branded XLC coolant is what you want. I just had to go buy a bottle from the dealer yesterday, as I'm swapping out the expansion tank this weekend (low coolant false warning issue)

 

[no-pistons]

I used Havoline XLC in mine, which as recommended in the service manual. Found it at Napa

I also got the false warning after replacing my thermostat housing and coolant change.

Slightly annoying but haven’t felt the need to fix it yet.

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[krick3tt]

I bought my coolant from LR dealer (XLC). It is made for the LR, not going to cheap out on internal stuff.
I also use Castrol 5/30 oil per the manual, it costs a bit more but the LR is worth it.
Changing oil at between 5K and 7K miles. Always change the filter and the plug. Get them from Atlantic British when they have a sale and keep extra one on hand.
I have 138K on the thing and it is going strong, want to keep it that way as long as possible.

 

[LR Max]

Fun fact: The sensor Part number is PCJ500030 and is a serviceable item. I've got the same issue.

X2 on the cooling system. I'll be doing a full cooling system. Full flush (wondering about flushing the heater core?), new hoses, new pump, new fan clutch (had one go bad on a previous vehicle, chased that cooling issue for months), new T-stat, new belts + tensioners, and while I'm in there, Alternator. This bill is going to suck but it'll be good for another 100k.

 

[no-pistons]

LR MAX, have you successfully replaced the sensor and had the issue go away? From my understanding, its the float that fills up or get saturated and no longer rises?

It also appears the LR redesigned the coolant reservoir bottle, so I'm thinking just replace the whole thing if you are going through the trouble.

 

[LR Max]

I haven't but its on my to-do list. I didn't know they re-designed the coolant bottle, so full replacement makes sense. Guess I'll go that route as well. Why not.

 

[eloist]

I haven't but its on my to-do list. I didn't know they re-designed the coolant bottle, so full replacement makes sense. Guess I'll go that route as well. Why not.

Yep, the bottle has a slight revision from the original. Thinner on the top sides, and the bleeder screw sits at an angle now. Swapping it out is on my Saturday morning to-do list...