LR3 Seats stopped working!
- Thread starter Victory_Overland
- Start date
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Yeah, it's some kind of project! The sharks are currently winning, but I'm still in the take, have a 4 minute breath hold and my four-band speargun is loaded! I'm still in the fight!
LR4XFAR
SCLR member 2013 LR4 HD
I needed a couple of relays for a heated seats project and the whole engine compartment fuse panel was available on eBay loaded up with relays and fuses for $45 shipped! Seemed like a no brained to get all of the extras to keep on hand. I keep a bag full in the back cubby hole just in case I or someone else needs one out on the trail.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
On a lighter note, today I didn't get anything done on Victory outside of heading over to Ford to pick up some new relays for the various systems. I went through my spare parts Pelican case that holds my bulbs, brake switch, fuses, and a few other trail goodies for the LR3 and realized I do not have a single spare relay in my trail kit; rookie move if you ask me!
Anywho, every relay I pulled out of Victory is a FOMOCO part so I did a little research and sure enough, they are the exact same specs, just $20 dollars cheaper at Ford than across the street at LR. I found this for the brake switch as well since it's the identical part in the Ford Fusion! According to the Ford guy, many of those same parts are still in the current Rovers coming off the line today. Not sure how true it is, but very likely since they are mass produced parts for various vehicles.
I think there are four different part number relays in the LR3 systems, I don't exactly remember but I ordered a few of each today from Ford and they come in tomorrow morning so I can start on my troubleshooting again for whatever wiring/electrical problem I have going on.
LR Battery/Start Relay: $32 LR Carlsbad
FOMOCO Battery/Start Relay: $5.99 Ford Carlsbad
I ordered three spares of each for the price of three total Relays from LR.....crazy!
Anywho, every relay I pulled out of Victory is a FOMOCO part so I did a little research and sure enough, they are the exact same specs, just $20 dollars cheaper at Ford than across the street at LR. I found this for the brake switch as well since it's the identical part in the Ford Fusion! According to the Ford guy, many of those same parts are still in the current Rovers coming off the line today. Not sure how true it is, but very likely since they are mass produced parts for various vehicles.
I think there are four different part number relays in the LR3 systems, I don't exactly remember but I ordered a few of each today from Ford and they come in tomorrow morning so I can start on my troubleshooting again for whatever wiring/electrical problem I have going on.
LR Battery/Start Relay: $32 LR Carlsbad
FOMOCO Battery/Start Relay: $5.99 Ford Carlsbad
I ordered three spares of each for the price of three total Relays from LR.....crazy!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Will do! I'm picking the remainder of them up in the morning and I will lay them out and post them up.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Well, I thought I've seen it all with the suspension and trans faults from blown tail-light bulbs but this one takes the cake.
Shorted circuit board in the driver's side (LH NAS) vanity mirror is the fault of all of my problems. It will take me a month to get the truck back together (exaggeration) but I am now confident in almost all of the wiring in my truck with zero corrosion issues and wiring looking really good throughout. I was consistently getting the battery saver relay fault which by the schematics has the left vanity mirror in the loop.
My issue was, when I was shooting wires and checking the board, it works great and everything checks out when the mirror door is open. When the mirror door is closed, it consistently blew the Fuse 1P (10 amp) and overheated the Central Junction Box (CJB-fuse box under the glove box) and the Battery Saver Relay (R250). I believe the same thing was happening with movement of the sun shade, but most definitely with the door closed as during most of my troubleshooting I had both vanity mirrors open with bright lights shining and no indication of any short or failure.
The problem I believe is in the circuit board behind the mirror, although it appears to be intermittent I am able to duplicate the problem by opening and closing the vanity mirror door with an external battery connected. With the mirror disconnected at the A-pillar, everything works perfectly in every fashion.
I'm really at a loss for words as it is hard to believe this vanity mirror circuit board can shut down half of the truck (seats, mirrors, radio, amp) and most importantly the main battery protection.
The pictures show the wiring down the A-pillar under the airbag and the small two-pin connector at the swivel for the sunshade.
Hope this helps someone in the future!
Yellow Box in the Middle with Red Border!
Shorted circuit board in the driver's side (LH NAS) vanity mirror is the fault of all of my problems. It will take me a month to get the truck back together (exaggeration) but I am now confident in almost all of the wiring in my truck with zero corrosion issues and wiring looking really good throughout. I was consistently getting the battery saver relay fault which by the schematics has the left vanity mirror in the loop.
My issue was, when I was shooting wires and checking the board, it works great and everything checks out when the mirror door is open. When the mirror door is closed, it consistently blew the Fuse 1P (10 amp) and overheated the Central Junction Box (CJB-fuse box under the glove box) and the Battery Saver Relay (R250). I believe the same thing was happening with movement of the sun shade, but most definitely with the door closed as during most of my troubleshooting I had both vanity mirrors open with bright lights shining and no indication of any short or failure.
The problem I believe is in the circuit board behind the mirror, although it appears to be intermittent I am able to duplicate the problem by opening and closing the vanity mirror door with an external battery connected. With the mirror disconnected at the A-pillar, everything works perfectly in every fashion.
I'm really at a loss for words as it is hard to believe this vanity mirror circuit board can shut down half of the truck (seats, mirrors, radio, amp) and most importantly the main battery protection.
The pictures show the wiring down the A-pillar under the airbag and the small two-pin connector at the swivel for the sunshade.
Hope this helps someone in the future!
Yellow Box in the Middle with Red Border!
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Finding it was by chance honestly, had I not bumped the vanity mirror door closed at one point, I think I would still be looking for the problem. Like I said, every indication showed no issues in that area for the last few days. I was shooting the wires down the A-pillar with the mirror disconnected, when I shot continuity on the mirror, I happened to have it open and all checked good so I just moved on.
Anywho, I hope this helps someone in the future, just crazy to think how many circuit boards and stuff are in this vehicle and how many potential problems can arise that might take some serious effort to diagnose!
I will say this though, I am fairly understanding of these schematics and the layout of the wiring in the vehicle now and where everything is located. Since I've had the truck opened up, I am also confident in the wiring and the security as everything still looks brand new under there with zero corrosion, solid grounds and connectors all around, etc.
I've ordered some of the factory style cloth type electrical tape and more gator wrap so aid in security as I start to put things back together. Honestly, this is the time for me to start the Traxide install since the interior and firewall wiring plugs are so easily accessible now.
Anywho, I hope this helps someone in the future, just crazy to think how many circuit boards and stuff are in this vehicle and how many potential problems can arise that might take some serious effort to diagnose!
I will say this though, I am fairly understanding of these schematics and the layout of the wiring in the vehicle now and where everything is located. Since I've had the truck opened up, I am also confident in the wiring and the security as everything still looks brand new under there with zero corrosion, solid grounds and connectors all around, etc.
I've ordered some of the factory style cloth type electrical tape and more gator wrap so aid in security as I start to put things back together. Honestly, this is the time for me to start the Traxide install since the interior and firewall wiring plugs are so easily accessible now.
Good call. Those firewall plugs can be a ********** to fish wires thru.