LR3 Suspension Help

First, I believe it to be fairly common for the truck to sag a bit after years. Mine moves a bit once I start it, compressor fires right up and auto levels a degree or two. Especially with the 145lb bumper on the front. Unless the compressor is running all the time, I think your momentary compressor and leveling is fairly normal. My neighbors 2013 LR4 does the same thing since his driveway is angled.


Start simple in troubleshooting before you go into bigger things. If you do not have FACTORY LR TAIL LIGHT BULBS, get them ASAP and replace all bulbs in your tail lights. They are cheap compared to what expenses you may be ready to step into now so nothing is lost by verifying and replacing these if needed. I didn't find this problem until my first real offroad trip in Hawaii. I was up in the mountains and the truck was taking quite a jossling and all of a sudden my suspension dropped, HDC fail, sensor fail, ABS fault, all kinds of stuff. Of course I ran all over for like an hour on how to get my truck fixed in safe mode and then as I sat on the trail, noticed my tail light was out again. Since I was stuck for the moment, why not replace it right?. Put a spare bulb in that I had in the glovebox, turned the truck on to check it and when I closed the door to walk back and check it, the truck raised up and all was well. This exact same thing happened a week or so later, only when I looked at the tail lights, they all lit up with no issue so I wrote off the tail light issue. I replaced the brake light switch with NO success. Then I found a thread about the impedence sensitivity of the LR electrical system relating to tail lights. Since I was out of options, getting ready to pull suspension sensors and all, my box of replacement LR lights from AB showed up. I pulled all four bulbs, replaced the Silvania Oreilly aftermarket lights with LR and boom, all was fixed and have not had a problem since.


Point is.....if you do not know what lights you have in, check them and get LR in there even if the aftermarket appear to be okay. I have helped save a few people on the island thousands of dollars from my lucky chance experience I learned from others. One guy was selling his wife's LR3 advertised as suspension needs a new ECU according to the dealer. I texted him, told him to check his tail lights and sure enough, same issue. He's still driving it today with a light bulb fix that LR quoted him thousands of dollars for a EAS module and couldn't be happier. He was selling because he couldn't justify the repair costs added to the hundreds he already stuck into failed diagnostics fees.


Second, many members said check the wheel well wiring. Get it cleaned up nice and start with pulling connectors, cleaning inside with electrical cleaner, corrosion cleaner, etc... and then dielectric grease. Start with the height sensors if you wish for piece of mind, then the rear wheel wells which are of common failure. I do not think its a height sensor or steering angle sensor as I showed the same issues along with many different codes. I do think its related to minor electrical fault and a good cleaning and look over will ensure you connectors are good, your lights are good and maybe see a broken or frayed wire as you inspect.


Hope anything here helps you out. I was in the same boat and ready to rip out expensive parts only to find it was an easy fix with a bit of tedious cleaning and inspection.......which in my opinion is the norm with our LR3 and rarely to we see catastrophic failure of major parts without indications of failure first.
 

GORM

Adventurer
Ok. Sounds like I'm working in right direction. Brkake light switch arrives today. I have electrical cleaner and dielectric grease and started cleaning up height sensors connectors. I also replaced my front brake sensor. That had been broken (shredded) for months and I was just lazy. I think I learned something new.

For the 1st time in months I had no sensors on dash, amber brake sensor was off. The rover still only made it a few miles before the aforementioned errors, but this time brake sensor came back on again along with the 2 other suspension sensors which sounds a lot like the brake switch faults folks have. Steering angle was still an issue. Not sure about bulbs though I have had truck for 2 years, and only replaced 1 bulb over a year ago from a spare light I purchased (I crushed the whole assembly) and kept bulbs.

I'll install brake switch sensor and do hard reset tonight and radio back. Btw, on the bulb replacement, is it just the 2 rears or the 3rd too at the top of tailgate.

Thanks all. :coffee:
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
Incorrect data could very well be a simple bulb reference or brake switch reference voltage issue and would be right in line with Victory. You may also have a alignment issue (likely as you noticed it after 4 wheeling) causing your steering angle sensor issue. If your steering wheel is off center then when you are driving the systems that need that signal (abs) will think the vehicle is turning when it's not. Or not get the correct back to center message when you turn a corner.

My line of questioning was to determine if you have more than one issue. Electrical and air suspension causing the combination of faults you first listed as well as the symptom you described with your suspension drop. I agree with Victory that suspensions do sag and esp if on a angled driveway as mine does this all the time.

That being said, that does not mean there isn't a problem. Understanding the simple failures of our suspension there can be internal crosslink valve leaks as well as a reservoir valve that leaks air back through the compressor when parked. Both lead to premature compressor failure.

Diagnosing a front or rear crosslink valve is easy. Generally only the front or rear will sag in a crosslink leak. You have to fill your bags to off-road height and spray with soapy water what little of the bag is showing and look for air bubbles. If none are found and you don't hear a audible leak your crosslink is probably the culprit.

Diagnosing the reservoir valve is easy but tricky, I check them on all the vehicles I replace a compressor on. There is a blue air line going from the reservoir valve to the compressor. The compressor end has a push pull release. Release the air line, while holding the air line vertical, spray a small amount of soapy water into the end of the air line. If it bubbles you have bleed back against the compressor. This can lead to compressor failure as it forces air back against the piston while the compressor is not running and can wear out the ring on the piston, thus the slow to fill fault.
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
I'm not sure how you came to the conclusion a height sensor could be causing a module communications fault.

A height sensor can fail and not set a fault. If it's sending a parameter within spec to the EAS module then no fault will be present. I have had a Range Rover sport that sat low only on the right side. Both right side sensors had failed but no faults were in the EAS module.

I was not coming to any conclusions hence the "Could be" statement. I was busy when I replied and could not take the time to type everything in the prior post to this.
 

GORM

Adventurer
I'm following both of you, I'm well informed (likely by Colorado, jymmie, Victory and others) on "sagging" issues. Work on the front and rear air valves and a compressor replacement took care of these issues. None of what is going on is realted to sagging overnight. That part of truck works the same as it has before my off roading.

I agree I could have multiple issues - alignment is most certainly one of them. I should know a lot more once I install the brake light switch. Hopefully, I'm left with a poor alignment and that is easy to correct. I spent 30 minutes under the truck last night and could not find evidence of bent control arms, other mechanical issues or even torn wiring.

Two questions:
Can a poor alignment on its own start shutting down the 4x4 system?
Another, if the only thing wrong was a blown air strut, what exactly would be the failure(s) tossed out?

Thanks
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
Shutting down 4x4 or just faulting the vehicle to limp mode? In other words dropping the suspension and forcing you into the dealer or a repair facility. It would have to be far enough off for the steering angle sensor to read it as trying to turn when going straight. This in conjunction with yaw and accelerometer sensor as well as wheel speed sensors could easily cause the system to fault.

Blown air strut will cause a air loss fault in the effected corner. This is noticed as one level sensor will see a significant drop over the other corner. Eventually they both drop all the way as they are linked via the cross link valves.
 

GORM

Adventurer
Update:

Brake light switch installed and a hard reset ... to zero affect. Still need to finsih checking connections on height sensors. Looks like a trip to the dealer (or LR specialist) may be inevitable if I cannot find something amiss with any electrical connections.
 

jymmiejamz

Adventurer
If your steering wheel is off center and someone calibrated the steering angle sensor with the wheel straight ahead, you will get faults while making turns because the wheel speed sensors will not match the expected values for the steering angle.
 

jymmiejamz

Adventurer
Did you push down on the brake pedal when you installed the switch? It is self adjusting upon installation, so if you install the switch while pushing on the pedal (even a very small amount) will cause it to be incorrectly adjusted. One of my apprentices did this a couple weeks ago and it ended up still setting brake lamp switch faults.
 

GORM

Adventurer
I thought my mechanic straightened wheel/steering wheel when he reset the sensor. It had no affect anyway. As far as brake sensor, I did not depress brake pedal during installation. I also went and checked F15 fuse which was ok.

Thinking at a minimum, I will need to go get a proper alignment at the LR dealer so I can remove that issue. The steering wheel is off maybe 30 degrees, no different than before the 1st at pet by my mechanic.

Anything else you think I should be checking?
 

GORM

Adventurer
Remember, after shutting down and restarting, all faults are clear and come on in succession about 5 minutes into my trip.
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
If your steering wheel is off by 30 degrees then you have a big problem. The only way to correct this is to have it aligned. My question is what is damaged and causing the steering to be off by 30 degrees? Have you inspected your steering system for any trail damage?
 

GORM

Adventurer
Only hard off roading - I do not remember slamming anything "tire on" but anything is possible. At near 6300-6400 lbs you do not need to be moving too fast. Visual inspection underneath did not reveal anything. I spent a lot of time under there cleaning up electrical connectors and cannot find anything that looks bent or out of place. I'll start with alignment and provide update on the results.
 

GORM

Adventurer
Update and issue closure:

Dealer performed 4 wheel alignment, cleared faults, wheel sensor reset and height calibration which cured all my issues for $300.

They found intermittent air compressor failure and that cost me $200 to identify. I put a reman oem compressor in the truck within the last 6-9 months so that was a surprise.

Best part was the free multi point inspection which yielded a total of $3900 recommeded fixes. I thought that was pretty funny. Honestly, a number of them are maintenance items or things you might expect on a 100k mile LR3 that has been taken off road. Recommendations beside maintenance items included putting in new compressor, replacing front & rear sway bar bushings, front tie rod replacement. The only suspension work on the truck in 100k I've done was new front wheel bearings.

Again, Mortimer is back! Thanks all for replies.
 
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