LR3 trail spares

[ColoDisco]

As I contemplate what trail spares I would like to carry on long backcountry routes I am wondering what my rig really needs. I am looking to like LR3 owners to share trail failures and what fixes or parts you would keep on board. I believe a given is a scan tool of some type. I would like to keep this thread from becoming a debate. More a sharing of stories, failures, trail fixes that worked. The idea for this thread stems from my experience with past rigs is I kept too many spares and gear. I am looking to minimize as much as possible but still be prepared and hopefully have a central thread that new owners can check for ideas and help.

My only trip with my LR3 so far was to Moab and it was fairly uneventful except when climbing a steep rock my rear wheel dipped out of range and caused a temporary fault. Height sensors are expensive. Is it necessary to keep 4 spares on board?

 

[Victory_Overland]

As I contemplate what trail spares I would like to carry on long backcountry routes I am wondering what my rig really needs. I am looking to like LR3 owners to share trail failures and what fixes or parts you would keep on board. I believe a given is a scan tool of some type. I would like to keep this thread from becoming a debate. More a sharing of stories, failures, trail fixes that worked. The idea for this thread stems from my experience with past rigs is I kept too many spares and gear. I am looking to minimize as much as possible but still be prepared and hopefully have a central thread that new owners can check for ideas and help.

My only trip with my LR3 so far was to Moab and it was fairly uneventful except when climbing a steep rock my rear wheel dipped out of range and caused a temporary fault. Height sensors are expensive. Is it necessary to keep 4 spares on board?

Are you looking for Equipement/Tools/Recovery Gear/etc... or just vehicle parts? This will help all of us help you out as much as possible!

My items are:

1) GAP Diagnostic Tool IID Tool/Bluetooth: Works with IoS and Android operating systems via Bluetooth connection. Obviously you need a phone or tablet accessible to use.
2) Brake switch: Factory LR or Ford (FOMOCO) brake switch FOMOCO P/N 7E5Z-13480-A or SW-6572. Make sure you read in the install instructions because it self calibrates and you can brake it on install if performed improperly.
3) Factory LR tail light bulbs: Never use aftermarket IMO! LR P/N XZQ000020
4) Surpentine belt (Extremely rare failure). Call me old school but I never have had a vehicle which I did not carry a spare.
5) Plugs (2 x spares). I have two from my last plug replace that I know are good. Not that I have every fouled a plug in my LR, but if I do I'm ready.
6) Spare coil (1 x spares). Just in case.
7) Valve stem kit.
8) Full size spare wheel/tire.



Some would say:
1) Height sensor. I'm not sure which one because I think they are all different. GAP can bypass this failure this I think but I have not confirmed.
2) Alternator. I have one for long trips in my overland/camping kit but do not carry it on a daily basis.

Hope some of this helps. Again, if you want tools, recovery, etc... as well I am sure you will get a huge list from everyone's experiences there as well.

 

[ColoDisco]

I have a fair bit of recovery gear. More interested in parts and trail fixes.

 

[454]

As noted above, a Gap IID tool, a brake switch, and bulbs, as bad bulbs cause all sorts of electrickery. I also have an air line repair kit that Joel at Buckhorn Imports put together.

These trucks just don't need a Pelican case full of spares like the D1 and D2. Even the belts and hoses seem to last forever. I wouldn't argue with Victory Overland's list, though.

I would make sure you've replaced the plastic coolant tee that is just under the engine cover. They age and can literally crumble. A 3/8" to 3/8" brass barb fitting works nicely.

Just stay in front of the scheduled maintenance.

 

[DiscoDavis]

Pretty much what Eric put, I'll add

>3/8" barbed brass fitting to replace coolant T (honestly I saw someone use a bic pen body as a temporary fix)
>alternator for sure (so low on the motor that mud will kill it quick, we killed 3 in one day between 5? cars)
>tools to remove fan
>couple rolls of that fibre fix stuff
>1x spare headlamp bulb
>a few turn signal bulbs, I had good luck with your run of the mill auto parts store bulbs
>couple of fuse jumper wires to get you unstuck if a relay or fuse blows and keeps blowing spares
OR
>add a toggle switch to a few fuses, especially EAS
>beer
>spare oil cap
>jumper pack lipo battery thing
>beer

To me alternator and jumper thing are more important than usual since if you have electrical issues they will be worse than on an older rover since the voltage drain is way higher and electricity controls so much. It was very hard to limp one of these even a few miles on battery power.

 

[Ian_Barry]

I think all the responses you've received so far have been reasonable and represent what I'm already carrying. I would add, for posterity, that carrying the inboard half shaft connection/bearing carrier might be prudent. Twice now I've detonated this bit and the last time it was a really unfortunate spot. The loss of a drive shaft can happen from over articulation (that's why you should use limit straps if you space the airbags down), but more importantly, the loss of the drive shaft makes the truck a very unhappy, partial 2wd 6000# monster that isn't going anywhere under it's own power. In this configuration you'll overheat the transfer case/clutch as it tries to rush power to the now free spinning inboard CV cup. It has been my experience that this will be what snaps.

This one is only a little broken, I'll take photos of the most recently demolished carrier.

It would take up almost no space, even with a boot kit and grease. Would I want to replace the shaft on the side of a hill? Not really. But I'd be happier doing it than getting stranded/super stuck for a part that I've grenaded twice in ~40k miles. YMMV depending on your wheeling style/environment.

 

[DiscoDavis]

partial 2wd 6000# monster that isn't going anywhere under it's own power. In this configuration you'll overheat the transfer case/clutch as it tries to rush power to the now free spinning inboard CV cup. It has been my experience that this will be what snaps.

I was never happy with the fact that you could not manually lock the centre diff in this config. At least with other models you can disconnect the driveshafts and 'lock' it into 2wd

 

[Victory_Overland]

Good stuff! I am now updating my list! All of my daily spares thus far fit in my back right jack storage! The big stuff is in a Pelican case for longer trips.

 

[ColoDisco]

Exactly what I was hoping for. Compiling a list myself. I too am looking into common small items that will stay in the rig and bigger long trip parts. I have a water pump (my old one with a new metal gasket) old one was not leaking I just replaced for peace of mind. PO already replaced the plastic t with brass however the screw cap was seeping. Put some plumbers tape on to seal it back up. I am carrying a assortment of hose repair and sealants just in case a gasket or hose fails. Those are leftovers from the D1's. I also carry a assortment of electrical connectors heat shrink and standard. ATC tool roll which gets filled with my snap on tools from work when on a trip. Old belts from replacement which are still good.

 

[Ray_G]

I think you have a pretty good basic list with Victory_Overland, Stu, etc's input.

Ian's commentary adds some flavor since his use of the truck in anger is illustrative of what can happen out there (Good to see some pics since you weren't sharing those over fb messenger real time! (kidding...of course)). I'd still be interested in hearing what you were doing when that happened-i.e. what was the application, environment, etc.

I think really the biggest thing is keeping up with maint on items that are durable but would be catastrophic on the trail-and having a good enough tool that the computers can be overcome if need be. My only related story is minor, when we were doing VOT my partner's LR3 had its sunroof open. While we were resetting our navigation on our ipad he was trying to close his sunroof b/c of some rain coming in. The sunroof wouldn't close b/c it had bounced up and hit the expedition rack somehow causing the whole thing to freak out...an inordinate amount of time and frustration with the IID, a standalone laptop w/Rover diagnostic software, etc all to get the damn thing closed. I wasn't directly involved with his troubleshooting since we had other stuff going on but to me illustrative that much of what you'll encounter-unless your 6000# beast is breaking itself-will be electronic/computer related. Brake switches, brake bulbs, alternators, jump packs: all key to making that computer system function happily.
r-
Ray

 

[Victory_Overland]

Good thing I never open the roof! Lol. I'll put this on the list of reasons why I won't! Lol

 

[GORM]

How about PDF version of the repair manual? I just downloaded one off eBay and it seems it could be helpful.

I am finding myself saving parts I replace and putting in oem replacement box with SPARE written on it and mileage on them. Tie rods might be easy ones to hold onto. I did not see thermostat mentioned. Will likely replace my thermo as preventative and keep old one as spare.

Big spares might include a front and rear air strut. There are reman aftermarket ones for maybe $280.

 

[DiscoDavis]

How about PDF version of the repair manual?

I did not see thermostat mentioned. Will likely replace my thermo as preventative and keep old one as spare.

I have used the PDF rave manual on a phone and tablet many times...

However the thermostat, they typically fail open. All it really does is throw a CEL when the loop gets colder than expected. This will tell you when it has gone. Best to do at home. The housing I could see you keeping a new spare or something if it cracks and leaks but t stat no

 

[zelatore]

How about PDF version of the repair manual? I just downloaded one off eBay and it seems it could be helpful.

I am finding myself saving parts I replace and putting in oem replacement box with SPARE written on it and mileage on them. Tie rods might be easy ones to hold onto. I did not see thermostat mentioned. Will likely replace my thermo as preventative and keep old one as spare.

Big spares might include a front and rear air strut. There are reman aftermarket ones for maybe $280.

OK, I admit I did carry spare struts on my Rubicon run, as well as a driveshaft, half-shaft, and some other big items. And I'm actually somebody who's broken all those items on the trail at one time or another. But for regular trail use? No - just not that big a chance of breakage vs the physical size of the things. You'll have your entire truck full of spares before you even pack any gear!

 

[454]

The thermostat is integral with a plastic housing that cracks over time. I replaced mine at 106k miles and plan to do so preemptively by the time I'm at 200k.