LR3 V6 Engine Pre-Lube

Ilatak

New member
Folks, I have been happy “mechanic”/owner of 2007 LR3 V6 4.0L Cologne for about 6 years now. In this time frame I have done the typical stuff including the full engine rebuild due to failing rear chains. Long story short I am religious about changing the oil every 5K km now to ensure those timing chains live as long as possible.

Due to COVID-19, LR3 has not been used much lately. When I started it after couple of weeks of not using it, I heard that dreadful chain rattle for 1 sec while oil pressure is building up in the tensioners. That quickly brought up a good memories….


Anyhow, I believe the oil had enough time to drain out, which explains brief chain rattle on start up. I knew what I needed is some way to prime the engine with oil prior to engine start. Given that this is 4.0L Cologne engine I researched ford explorer forums a lot and sounded like engine pre-lube system using oil accumulator was in order.

Then I run into enb54 epic adventure on putting Ford Ranger’s engine into LR3… What an epic project, you can read about it here:

here or here

enb54 had installed Moroso oil accumulator and has been using it for the last year in beautiful Canadian winter. We have exchanged couple of emails and shortly after I put together the list of parts.

I bought the following:

As for install it was simple in the retrospect, but I did have to do it couple of times ☹
First of all, I started by coming up with the bracket to bolt down the moroso accumulator inside of the axillary batter tray. I had some scrap pieces of metal for this.
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Then I started to work on wiring and assembling the countdown module. Its job is to send power (open) to valve as soon as ignition is on and keep it open for predetermine amount of time. I set it to 50 seconds.
Parts I have used: module, switch, some dollarama quality soap box

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Now we are onto assembling hose, fittings, and accumulator:

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Here is how it suppose to look like, picture courtesy of enb54
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And installing it… This is were I have dropped the ball and didn’t take many pictures ☹

Basically, this is the location of oil pressure sensor we need to get to, it is on the driver (North America) side of the engine

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To get there I had to remove:
  • The intake hose with MAF
  • Fan with clutch assembly (fun times)
  • Relieve pressure on tensioner and remove the belt
  • Undo 4 bolts and remove power steering and ac compressor bracket. This leaves the PS pump and AC compressor attached to the bracket, just move it down and towards the radiator to get access to oil pressure sensor
  • Unscrew the oil pressure sensor
  • Attach the end of the Morosso hose
  • Screw in oil pressure sensor into the T fitting
  • Follow steps 1 to 4 in reverse order ?

Jumping ahead I had to take everything apart again because oil pressure sensor was not getting the ground and therefore not registering the pressure. Turns out I didn’t have ground because my fittings were anodized. I had to replace the T fitting and male to male ¼ NPT to the block for a brass ones.
Also when you install the valve onto Moroso accumulator ensure that the flow direction arrow points away from accumulator. Otherwise, when you turn off the engine, pressure in the accumulator will overpower the valve and drain oil back into the engine (not what you want until you try to start the engine again)

Final assembly:

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As for power I needed to tap into a circuit that gets power when you switch key into 2 possition. Turns out un-used F9 fuse will do just that:

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=2132

based on my testing the power doesn’t go away (OFF) when you turn off the ignition for about other 40 seconds.
I routed the hose over the top of coolant bottle and into the accumulator. One can route it down under the coolant bottle but I didn’t want it to rub against other hoses there.

How it works?

First start after install:

  • You turn on the ignition
  • This start the 50 sec timer and opens up the valve
  • You start the engine
  • Oil builds up in the accumulator under pressure
  • Valve closes, engine continues to run
You must watch oil level here, because extra 1.5 qts going into accumulator
Subsequent engine start
  • You turn on the ignition without starting the engine
  • System opens up the valve for 50 secons
  • Stored oil pressure goes into the engine and preassurises the engine
  • You observe the Oil Pressure light turns off before you even start the engine ?
  • You start the engine and hear no dumn rattle ?
  • Valve is still open so pressure is build up in the accumulator for next time
  • 50 seconds is up and valve is closing, so the oil remains under pressure for next time
After checking for leaks I have changed the oil as it was time to do so anyway
 
Last edited:

BlAikenstein

New member
Pretty slick. I’m doing the chains on an lr4 and am trying to figure out a way to pressurize the oil system before starting since it’s been apart for months now. Current plan is to force the oil through the filter housing.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Wow, I would have called for help right about here in the process:

"First of all, I started by coming up with the bracket....."
 

Carson G

Well-known member
Did you replace the tensioners? Also if you hold the throttle pedal to the floor when cranking it the engine will just crank but not start I can’t remember if it’s a spark or fuel cut. If mine sits for awhile that’s what I do. I usually do that for a cycle before letting it start.
 

Ilatak

New member
Pretty slick. I’m doing the chains on an lr4 and am trying to figure out a way to pressurize the oil system before starting since it’s been apart for months now. Current plan is to force the oil through the filter housing.
I wouldn't and still am not too worried about single start. It is day after day starts that I am worried about
 

Ilatak

New member
Wow, I would have called for help right about here in the process:

"First of all, I started by coming up with the bracket....."
Hehe, it wasn't bad at all actually. As you can see I just came up with a braket out of scrap. I believe you could just leave it in the battery tray without the bracket but hey, why not
 

Ilatak

New member
Did you replace the tensioners? Also if you hold the throttle pedal to the floor when cranking it the engine will just crank but not start I can’t remember if it’s a spark or fuel cut. If mine sits for awhile that’s what I do. I usually do that for a cycle before letting it start.
When I did rebuild the engine, I have replaced everything :) so yeah.
Also I read about the procedure you are talking about but I needed something that would work automagically as my wife is not going to do any pedal pressing stuff if you know what I mean :)
 

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