LR4 - remove 3rd row seats
- Thread starter DETOUR-GP
- Start date
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Yes, all bolts need to go back in. I'm working on using those bolts and/or seat brackets to pirate those on the plasma table so I can bolt my sleeping rack and tie-downs to those areas that are known structure. The frame is hollow and although you will not find a place where you can see daylight, there is airflow through the frame with the various lightening holes, channels, etc. that will give you a nice breeze in the cabin. On that note, when I removed all of my bolts, I fogged it with silicon and then ran the bolts back in. Probably not needed, but corrosion scares me! I do the same under the truck with WD-40 when I remove bolts, I either fog it with silicon or WD. Long story short, just put the bolts back in where you took them out.
My truck is significantly louder inside the cabin as the seats provide a lot of sound-proofing and when they are removed, the metal floor is exposed in many areas. When I take the carpet out tomorrow, I plan to draw out the existing mounting areas and then put down sound-damper to quiet the cabin again.
The factory carpet/sound-proofing insulation is 2" thick in many areas which explains why the Lady is so quiet and comfy inside.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
In case anyone wants to know what the rear looks like with everything removed.
The carpet is held down by the side panels and lays under the second row seat carpet. Under the tailgate, there are 3 bolts that need to be removed to take the carpet out; nothing else holds the carpet in and the side panels do NOT need to be removed to get the carpet out. I thought it was going to be a project, but it came out in less than two minutes.
Removing the seats is another story! hahaha
The carpet is held down by the side panels and lays under the second row seat carpet. Under the tailgate, there are 3 bolts that need to be removed to take the carpet out; nothing else holds the carpet in and the side panels do NOT need to be removed to get the carpet out. I thought it was going to be a project, but it came out in less than two minutes.
Removing the seats is another story! hahaha
krick3tt
Adventurer
I used a 3/16 steel plate for the support of the cans. Originally created cardboard mock ups of the cans to see if they would fit and then a cardboard mock up of the plate. All attachments of the metal were made using the original holes in the frame of the LR, no additional holes were drilled and no welding of the frame.
I removed the OEM plastic heat guard and welded a piece to the front of the plate to create a new heat shield. The cans are held in place by 2x2 wood rather than angle steel as the steel might rub the cans and cause a hole. the cans rest on a thin rubber sheet and press against the bumpers that were used to insulate the tire from the frame of the LR so they also insulate the cans.
the original winch cable was used to lift the cans and plate to secure position and a 3/8 rod was used to span the plate for a bit of additional insurance against the cable breaking. The angle holding the rod was bolted into existing holes in the frame.
I have been using this arrangement for over a year and there have been no adverse issues. Add to that I have the extra 10 gallons of fuel available for an unexpected time when fuel might be unavailable on a trip.
It might be noticed that mud will collect after deeper water crossings but is easily washed away.
I suppose a 1/8 plate could be used but I prefer to have a bit more thickness against rocks I might encounter.
If you decide to use this mod on your LR please know that I bear no responsibility for any misfortunes that may occur in use of this arrangement.
Happy trails
I
I removed the OEM plastic heat guard and welded a piece to the front of the plate to create a new heat shield. The cans are held in place by 2x2 wood rather than angle steel as the steel might rub the cans and cause a hole. the cans rest on a thin rubber sheet and press against the bumpers that were used to insulate the tire from the frame of the LR so they also insulate the cans.
the original winch cable was used to lift the cans and plate to secure position and a 3/8 rod was used to span the plate for a bit of additional insurance against the cable breaking. The angle holding the rod was bolted into existing holes in the frame.
I have been using this arrangement for over a year and there have been no adverse issues. Add to that I have the extra 10 gallons of fuel available for an unexpected time when fuel might be unavailable on a trip.
It might be noticed that mud will collect after deeper water crossings but is easily washed away.
I suppose a 1/8 plate could be used but I prefer to have a bit more thickness against rocks I might encounter.
If you decide to use this mod on your LR please know that I bear no responsibility for any misfortunes that may occur in use of this arrangement.
Happy trails
IAttachments
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Victory_Overland
Explorer
@krick3tt that's a great idea. I thought of something similar to this with my mil Sceptor cans as a temp solution to a permanent aux fuel install; it's great to see you have a working method that has served you well over time. The idea was to use 1/4" aluminum with a support/heat shield all the way around like you have for extra strength since I do not believe I plan to bash it too much. It would be enclosed on all sides except the back and not weather proof but make it easy to swing down and install the cans as needed. Do you have any rattle noise or issues at all with this set up?
I also considered making an aux fuel design like this with a crash worthy fuel cell that is bolted to the plate instead of completely built into the truck like the Long Ranger tanks.
Great idea, now my little screws in my head are turning again.
I also considered making an aux fuel design like this with a crash worthy fuel cell that is bolted to the plate instead of completely built into the truck like the Long Ranger tanks.
Great idea, now my little screws in my head are turning again.
krick3tt
Adventurer
Victory_Overland
Great to see that the idea is well received, lots of thought went into it. Several people have asked and if you have any specific questions, just ask.
Another inquiry from CA was just answered but I think if there is a possibility of corrosion being close to the coast I would have used SS bolts and applied the spray on undercoating a bit thicker. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0P9K6...95d8-0edb7a21ee91&ie=UTF8&qid=1536085261&sr=1)
Aluminum was a bit more difficult for me to obtain so steel was used. I did not expect to bash it either but on my last trip I bashed the exhaust. Those rocks seem to be everywhere.
No, there are no issues with rattles at all, the cans rest on a 1/4 inch rubber pad (used to be a placemat) and they sit up against the rubber bumpers that cushioned the spare and are wedged in with the wood so nothing to rattle. I have lots of stuff inside that rattles and I am constantly truing to find what they are to silence them, losing battle.
Morris
9/5 edit: I think the aluminum could be a great idea especially if one can find a fabricator that has the ability to bend the plate to create the heat shield instead of welding it as I did with the steel.
Great to see that the idea is well received, lots of thought went into it. Several people have asked and if you have any specific questions, just ask.
Another inquiry from CA was just answered but I think if there is a possibility of corrosion being close to the coast I would have used SS bolts and applied the spray on undercoating a bit thicker. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0P9K6...95d8-0edb7a21ee91&ie=UTF8&qid=1536085261&sr=1)
Aluminum was a bit more difficult for me to obtain so steel was used. I did not expect to bash it either but on my last trip I bashed the exhaust. Those rocks seem to be everywhere.
No, there are no issues with rattles at all, the cans rest on a 1/4 inch rubber pad (used to be a placemat) and they sit up against the rubber bumpers that cushioned the spare and are wedged in with the wood so nothing to rattle. I have lots of stuff inside that rattles and I am constantly truing to find what they are to silence them, losing battle.
Morris
9/5 edit: I think the aluminum could be a great idea especially if one can find a fabricator that has the ability to bend the plate to create the heat shield instead of welding it as I did with the steel.
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Victory_Overland
Explorer
See the below clip from PAGE 15 of my build thread for exact seat weights by location!
All (5) five of the rear seats and hardware weigh in at a lovely 267lbs!
When I say 3rd row carpet kit, I am referring to the carpet inserts for the seat itself. If you remove the actual floor carpet/sound-proofing from the rear of the second row seat all the way back (entire cargo area), that patch of carpet/sound-proofing weighs at least another 20-25lbs.
All (5) five of the rear seats and hardware weigh in at a lovely 267lbs!
When I say 3rd row carpet kit, I am referring to the carpet inserts for the seat itself. If you remove the actual floor carpet/sound-proofing from the rear of the second row seat all the way back (entire cargo area), that patch of carpet/sound-proofing weighs at least another 20-25lbs.
2nd Row CENTER Seat: 57lbs per seat
2nd Row PASSENGER OUTBOARD Seat: 52lbs per seat
3rd Row FOLD-DOWN Seats: 96lbs per set
3rd Row Brackets/Carpet Kit/Hardware: est 10lbs
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