Home from work in one week and then the fun begins. I've got almost everything ordered and sitting at the house. Gonna be the most intense project I've ever done but if I can pull this **** off, I'll be confident in most things engine-related from then on. (for those unfamiliar with the 6.0, most shops lift the whole cab off to do this job)
There are a lot of ways to "fix" a 6.0, some cheaper, some different. I've elected to go all out (once again) and have it be a bulletproofed workhorse for many years to come.
Parts:
Major
-BPD Oil cooler, heavy duty, cold weather kit (min oil temp thermostat), BPD remote oil filter
-BPD EGR cooler (will still function when I want it, or turned off with the tuner)
-Bypass oil filter setup
-BPD billet water pump (tough choice based on price but the bottom line is-it's not uncommon for the plastic impeller to crack at the hub and freewheel-can't afford that in the middle of nowhere, so I'm swapping it while it's wide open)
-Zerex ELC coolant (swapping out ****ty Ford Gold)
-Rotella T6 synthetic oil
-ARP head studs
-OEM Head gaskets (2)
Minor (most of these are update parts from International which eliminate a lot of common failures)
-Rocker carrier gaskets (2)
-Exhaust manifold gaskets (2)
-Fuel injector o-ring kits (8)
-Thermostat
-Oil rail dummy plugs (2)
-6.4 banjo bolts (2)
-6.4 banjo bolt washers (4)
-HPOP/STC fitting update
-IPR screen update
-Turbo rebuild kit
-Water separator drain update
-Degas bottle replacement (mine is baked and caked with Ford Gold)
-Cold side intercooler metal pipe update
-CAC boots for pipes (4)
-SS clamps for boots
-Fan clutch wire harness guard (easily severed by the fan if the clip breaks)
-CCV mod (temporarily vented to atmosphere, waiting on a deal for a racor CCV filter so I can maintain vacuum on the case-helps seal the rings apparently-and clear smog check, not drip oil, or pis people off at stoplights with blow-by gases)
-Header and exhaust wrap as far as two rolls will go (Donahoe racing SD started a fire when a tranny line rupture leaked onto the exhaust, I figure it can't hurt, plus the engine bay is always hot AF...going full chase here)
-Replace cracked heater box with one I snagged from the junkyard
-SCT Tuner, not looking to hit the drags ever but once it's studded, I can safely pull a little more pep out of this whale
This is what it's gonna look like...gotta get worse before it gets better:
Ok, question for people with more experience regarding airflow, coolers, and power steering/brakes than me...
Because I'm converting the water/oil cooler to an air/oil cooler, that cooler has to go up front between the ac condenser and radiator. That's where the current power steering cooler is located. Anyone who installs this kit is required to relocate it and usually purchases the cooler from earlier models (which is mounted down low as seen in the following picture-it's only a two pass cooler).
It seems like I keep burning up the fluid in the dirt because it gets worked so hard. I had the though of upgrading to a little tranny cooler to help it out. There are three nice options below. The smaller the better so it's easy to mount, but the fan is attractive because if when I go through with the skid plate, it doesn't look like it will get any flow at all.
Question: will one of the coolers without a fan still work well enough with the skid? Or should I just rig up the fan version and be safe?
It would pretty much go right on top of that ac condenser above where the small oem one is
Mishimoto with fan
Flex-a-lite with a nice guard
Small Mishimoto but double the tubes of the OEM
This is the kind of restriction I would be looking at (yes I could cut holes but if a winch is ever a plan then it wouldn't much matter)
Thanks for any help. Happy New Year
