M100 (post WWII) DOD '53 SN# 2185X

[TacoDell]

No, it's not the proper box... just something I had laying around.
The original box is taller.

these guys sell a repro... and thar's a pic of 'er in the link

http://www.midwestmil.com/trailerparts.html

 

[TacoDell]

little more progess...

nearly there !


clip of RTT opened and closed, while mounted on trailer.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Bp-NpSO3mg"]YouTube- RTT mounted on an M100[/ame]


Next step... the hinges.

so I ordered up six of these.

Northern Tool

$ 92.46 shipped



Here's to hoping they work for me. :dunno:
.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Very nice! Where did you get the plastic end plugs for the rectangular tubing? It caps them off nicely.

Craig

 

[Errant]

Thanks for the link, Taco. $85 seems steep for a metal box, but I'm thinking it might make for a good dedicated wag bag keeper. Do you happen to know the dimensions?

No, it's not the proper box... just something I had laying around.
The original box is taller.

these guys sell a repro... and thar's a pic of 'er in the link

http://www.midwestmil.com/trailerparts.html

 

[TacoDell]

Very nice! Where did you get the plastic end plugs for the rectangular tubing? It caps them off nicely.

Craig

I purchased mine from a metal shop that builds wrought iron gates and fences.
Find a local business like that... and they'll most likely have an assortment to fit other sized tube as well.
I chose to do this rather then welding up end caps.
cause it's simple... and I'm lazy. :elkgrin:

Thanks for the link, Taco. $85 seems steep for a metal box, but I'm thinking it might make for a good dedicated wag bag keeper. Do you happen to know the dimensions?

No sorry I do not know the exact measurements of the cable box.
Tho' I'm sure the boys at G503 have an answer for that.

 

[jeepfreak81]

Are the bars under the lip just for reinforcement and atatching the hinges to?

 

[TacoDell]

Are the bars under the lip just for reinforcement and atatching the hinges to?

are you referring to the lower square stock that is installed around the lower circumference ?

Yes they're primarily there for the hinges...
as the lid will be hinged at both sides, so that the lid could open to either side with just a few simple adjustments if I had the need for that.
The hinges I'm using have a grease fitting and are of a take apart design.
Meaning: the hinge's pins are semi - QDC removable

The lids latches/locks will also be secured to that stock.

The intended added function... for running the sq. stock completely around the perimeter... is so that I will have weld surface on all for sides to weld up brackets or other attachments that may hold tools and what not to the exterior's surface.

I didn't want to cut into, weld or just generally mess up the rolled sheet metal edge and tubular top rail of the trailer...
...as that makes it extremely difficult to return this WWII trailer back to it's original form.

 

[TacoDell]

If you might think any of the previous work was overkill...

Here's to boggling the mind...

Got Beef ?

6" hinge, details...

1/2" bolt...

the breakdown...

nylon grease seal inserts...

how they'll set... but not in those locations.

^ It's my intention to mount them OC of the bolts showing in the picture. They'll be drilled for the bolt, then additionally, the tongue will get welded at the sides after the hinges are positioned properly to maintain that, as well as becoming integral to the sq. stock it's mounted to.

The upper bracket will likely bolt thru the lid's frame with a backing plate.


Let's not forget... I have 6 of these total. !?

It may not seem purdy to some...
But I'm all about function... over form.

 

[jeepfreak81]

are you referring to the lower square stock that is installed around the lower circumference ?

Yes they're primarily there for the hinges...
as the lid will be hinged at both sides, so that the lid could open to either side with just a few simple adjustments if I had the need for that.
The hinges I'm using have a grease fitting and are of a take apart design.
Meaning: the hinge's pins are semi - QDC removable

The lids latches/locks will also be secured to that stock.

The intended added function... for running the sq. stock completely around the perimeter... is so that I will have weld surface on all for sides to weld up brackets or other attachments that may hold tools and what not to the exterior's surface.

I didn't want to cut into, weld or just generally mess up the rolled sheet metal edge and tubular top rail of the trailer...
...as that makes it extremely difficult to return this WWII trailer back to it's original form.

Exactly what I was talking about. I will definitely be following your build, as that is part of what is slowing me down, I don't actually want to weld directly to my M416.

 

[TacoDell]

Exactly what I was talking about. I will definitely be following your build, as that is part of what is slowing me down, I don't actually want to weld directly to my M416.

Well, what if I told you... that you could use my lid design,
with a few small changes, and not have to weld or drill a single hole to the trailer ! ?

As I was working on this lid... I realized I could have avoided drilling holes to mount the sq. stock to the sides...

I don't have a CAD program so I can't really draw that out and show you.

So I'll just try and explain with words...

Tho likely observed looking at the pictures...

Location of the lower sq. stock, is directly below, and flush, to the underside of the trailer's oem rail (tubing).

my lid... is directly above (topside) of the oem rail

Now if you were to utilize those two pieces and think of things as a clamp...
You could convert what would be my lid, into a frame member.
This would reside at the top and be bolted or welded to the lower tube work, with plates, to form a box that sandwiches the trailer's upper rail (tubing)...

It could be completely bolt together for removal purposes.

Once the clamp style base is in place... then an additional frame would need to be built and placed on top of the upper framework to become what would be the lid.

If none of this is making any sense... I can try to use msn paint to try and explain better.

I wish I would have realized this before I drilled the 14 new holes into my trailer's sheet metal when installing mine.

These new holes don't bother me all that much though... as they are not intrusive and could be easily filled with weld if and when the need arise.

I filled prolly at least 40 holes on this trailer just to get it back to it's stock condition... so 14 new holes... ain't no biggie IMO

 

[TacoDell]

Just another little detail...

End caps for the deck lid...

Needed to make a filler panel at each end of the lid's top deck, where the RTT comes up short in length to the trailer's deck length...
as I chose to center the RTT over the axle's center.

 

[TacoDell]

installing my lid...

Well... finally... I can call it a lid.

4 of these hinges are damn strong...
but this light framework still bows down in the center and so...
I'll still be adding a center hinge to each side...
Was intending on doing that regardless as the center hinges will be utilized as my lock(s)
There will be a barbell (receiver type) lock at each side pinned in place of the bolts, hopefully I'll get them keyed alike.
Quick pull pins at each corner hinge...

should make for easy driver or passenger opening either direction.

Here are some pics so you can see how that'll go...

at rest...

this lid is a floating type design... so the gap showing will be filled by the, soon to be installed, seal...
The seal will be secured to the bottom surface of the lid and squash down on the trailer's round top rail surface...

upper weld ground smooth for sheet stock top plate (F/R ends)...

opening - passenger side...

Opening - drivers side...

other angles...

there's still lots to be done...

But it's starting to take shape don't ya think ?

 

[Hill Bill E.]

Looking really good! I like the reenforcement rail around the top of the tub.

I made oversize hinges, and bolted them to the tub, but recently broke a hinge.

Probably going to utilize those style hinges when I redo my lid.:coffeedrink:

 

[TacoDell]

Looking really good! I like the reenforcement rail around the top of the tub.

I made oversize hinges, and bolted them to the tub, but recently broke a hinge.

Probably going to utilize those style hinges when I redo my lid.:coffeedrink:

Thanks for the compliment !

Well if you get this specific hinge for that re-do...

You would be properly advised to know...

That the distributor of this hinge offers an optional steel bushing/grease seal.
And they also offer replacement nylon bushings.

But the manufacturer don't offer them direct... so's ya gotta go thru a distributor.

The steel bushings would have made for a better welding experience, as the plastic bushing that come original with these will melt if they see too much heat during any weld process.

I'm trying to order up a set of the optional steel bushings... but really wish I had them during my welding of these...


If this might interest you I can share resources with you.

 

[TacoDell]

I've opted to change out the original threaded nut/bolts for Farmex 1/2" X 3 1/2" QD pins... One at each corner.

These 1/2" pins will required that the oem washers be reamed slightly...
and I will need to tack weld the washers in place so they stay aligned during removal...
otherwise... they fit great !

And for the center hinges... here's my lock system mocked up on one of the corner hinges, as I've yet to mount the center hinges...

It's difficult trying to find an 1/2" receiver style lock with a long enough pin,
that will fit for these hinges...

I needed one at with a minimum of 3 1/4" working area...

after searching for days and days... calling lock companies and all.
I just got frustrated with that.

I found that the boating world offers a Bow pin lock... and they will work...
But they are commonly too long...

So... found these cheapo cable/pin locks at wally world... is a Reese brand.
and comes with an 12 ft cable as well.
In looking thru their stock at my local walmart... I was able to match two of the locks keys and found that if they are close... they will work in both locks..
Kinda... but a little sticky (obstinate).

meh.. they're just for the time being, until I find or modify the locks I really want.

I found that some of the receiver pin locks that are inter-changeable with a slide on sleeve, and are near 3" - 3 1/8" L, but just short...

So I've thought about purchasing two of those in stainless and then mill the stationary lug back slightly to give the clearance I need.
so now I'm just looking for a keyed alike set that ain't too pricey.

But these will work for now.

Cable attached for the visual of that.

Thanks for looking