I purchased a 86 M1009 CUCV "Chevy Blazer". I'm looking to put some 37" tires but do not want to cut the fenders if I do not have to. I have been told everything from a 4" to a 6" lift is needed to clear those tires. Any Ideas? I would prefer to keep the lift as little as possible to avoid being top heavy and reduce the amount of work getting stuff from the roof rack.
M1009 needs a lift
- Thread starter Ulfhedinn
- Start date
Stoney126
Adventurer
Depending on what you wanna do with the truck and how much you plan to pack up top you should be fine with 6 inch lift and 37's . The corner could be trimmed just abit you would be hard pressed to notice it. Check out Colorado k5. Com lots of Info and a good thread I believed called what will my truck look like lift and tires
shovelbill
Observer
is there a reason you want 37's? the 3.08 geared 10 bolts won't be very happy.......that's for sure, neither will you. there's a lot more that would need to be done to run 37" tires properly than just a "lift" imo.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I'll just leave these here......
These are from this project....
http://www.chaosfab.com/projects/blazer/blazer.html
I'm a firm believer in using the big tire little lift system. While I agree that you will have some work to do in the axle department....it isn't anything a set of 4.56 geared M1008 CUCV axles wouldn't fix! Bolt in fun with a rear Detroit ( and a set of recentered H1 rims would carry the theme really well )
You might contact the builder above. It doesn't look like they cut the rear very much at all. With the right backspacing and tire position in the wheel opening its surprising sometimes how much tire you can fit. In the front I wouldn't be afraid to cut it, its all replaceable. I would think REALLY hard about using a set of 'glass front fenders with more room. You will have to do something for the inner fender if you want to keep the engine clean....but that old diesel doesn't care that much.
Good luck. Finding a used 37" tire and a rim to bolt up is worth every penny. That will tell you for sure what needs to be done....
These are from this project....
http://www.chaosfab.com/projects/blazer/blazer.html
I'm a firm believer in using the big tire little lift system. While I agree that you will have some work to do in the axle department....it isn't anything a set of 4.56 geared M1008 CUCV axles wouldn't fix! Bolt in fun with a rear Detroit ( and a set of recentered H1 rims would carry the theme really well )
You might contact the builder above. It doesn't look like they cut the rear very much at all. With the right backspacing and tire position in the wheel opening its surprising sometimes how much tire you can fit. In the front I wouldn't be afraid to cut it, its all replaceable. I would think REALLY hard about using a set of 'glass front fenders with more room. You will have to do something for the inner fender if you want to keep the engine clean....but that old diesel doesn't care that much.
Good luck. Finding a used 37" tire and a rim to bolt up is worth every penny. That will tell you for sure what needs to be done....
Could not agree more...
I will be swapping
Front Axle: Dana 60
Rear Axle: 10.5" Corporate 14 Bolt Differential, with a Detroit Locker
from a M1008
I'll just leave these here......
These are from this project....
http://www.chaosfab.com/projects/blazer/blazer.html
I'm a firm believer in using the big tire little lift system. While I agree that you will have some work to do in the axle department....it isn't anything a set of 4.56 geared M1008 CUCV axles wouldn't fix! Bolt in fun with a rear Detroit ( and a set of recentered H1 rims would carry the theme really well )
You might contact the builder above. It doesn't look like they cut the rear very much at all. With the right backspacing and tire position in the wheel opening its surprising sometimes how much tire you can fit. In the front I wouldn't be afraid to cut it, its all replaceable. I would think REALLY hard about using a set of 'glass front fenders with more room. You will have to do something for the inner fender if you want to keep the engine clean....but that old diesel doesn't care that much.
Good luck. Finding a used 37" tire and a rim to bolt up is worth every penny. That will tell you for sure what needs to be done....
Great info and thanks for the link. This is what I'm looking at as I am reading this post. The lift is based on 6" but maybe I need to rethink the fender cutting and see how that would pan out.
http://www.trailworthyfab.com/home.php
(5) 8 Bolt Hummer Wheel Special w/
Goodyear Wrangler radials 37x12.50x16.5 - Hummer Tire
http://www.offroaddesign.com/
1. Weld-in Frame Repair kit
GU39002 $80
2. Dana 60 Crossover Steering and High Steer Kits {$800}
Pitman arm
Part #:70203 $70
Steering arms:
RH Arm Part #: U9001
RH Arm Price: $150.00
LH Arm Part #: U9003
LH Arm Price: $150.00
(2) Stud kit part #: U9002
Stud kit price: $30.00 (set of 4 ARP high strength, 190,000 psi studs)
Draglink:
Tube part #: U9015
Tube price: $95.00
(2) Ends for draglink and tie rod #:U9016 $95 per pair
High Steer Tierod:
Tube part #: U9014-High Steer
Tube Price: $85.00
3. Lift System {$2015}
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/6inchliftsystem.htm
Front lift springs:
6” EZ-Ride Front Tuff Country Springs $350
Front U-Bolts:
1 Ton (Dana 60 Front Axle) U-Bolt Kit #GU37051 $48
Heavy Duty Greasable Front Shackles GU37011 $99
Greasable Spring Main Eye kit GU37012 $27
Brakelines:
79-98 and D60, 10mm Brake line kit through 6” Lift GU30011 $112
Sway Bar Disconnect Kit GU37001 $99
Swaybar bushings:
Sway Bar Bushings 81-87 BG05003 $19
Bolt-in steering box brace:
81-87 GU39001-L $130
Rear Lift:
4” Shackle Flip '73-'87 ('91) GM #GU38010 $189
3" Rear Tuff Country Lift Spring $456
Greasable Suspension Components:
Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit 1 ½” Spring Eyes and 1 ½” Shackles #GU38002 $90
Rear U-bolts:
¾ and 1 Ton Rear U-Bolt Kit TCI-17752 $40
Bilstein 5125 Shocks set of 4 $356
4 pcs BE5-A465-H7
ORD High Clearance HD Engine Crossmember $189
Part #:GU32005-Big Block
Fits '73-'87 GMs with big block or diesel motor
PSC Steering Kit $1083/$379
Steering Box SG041MR
Steering Pump SP1405
Remote Reservoir Kit SR102K
Steering Cylinder Kit 2" SC2202k
Hose Kit HK2022
Cooler kit DER-13212
14 Bolt Full Float Disc Brake Bracket Kit $150
http//offroaddesign.com/catalog/14FFdisckit.htm
Brake rotors from a '73-'87 GM 3/4T front axle. (Napa) $90
Calipers from a '73-'87 1/2 or 3/4T front. (Napa) $20
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
That is a big long list....
Few notes.
With the wider D60 front axle your going to need to watch the backspacing on the wheels. Too little and the tire is going to stick way out and swing into the body work. This will require a LOT larger wheel opening in front. Most of the pressed H1 wheel centers don't provide enough backspacing for the 69" wide front axle.
If you want rear disc brakes. Look into using a 2003ish GM 2500hd rear axle. They are the last of the 14-bolt axles, but had factory disc brakes with an integrated parking brake. You can get them with 3.73 or 4.10 gears factory. ny of the 14-bolt after market gears will swap in. You can also use any 14-bolt locker. They are 67" wide and a pretty good match for the D60 front.
On your blazer I don't think it has an overdrive? Even with 37" tires, 4.56 gears from the CUCV axles are going to be a bit deep.
I think your list is comprehensive but you don't really NEED all that stuff. If you have that kind of coin to spend then order away. If you don't, you can get the bigger parts and get started for a LOT less.
Don't get stuck on the CUCV stuff either. You can find a front axle out of a normal GM truck pretty easy. A front end out of a 1st gen dodge can work too I think.
Good luck on your project. Get a used 37" tire and a wheel that will fit your existing axles. By bolting this on each corner you can get a MUCH better idea of what your going to need to do. IMOO 6" of lift is WAY too much. I would try and make it work with 1-2" at most. You will be a LOT more happy in the end with the lower center of gravity.
Few notes.
With the wider D60 front axle your going to need to watch the backspacing on the wheels. Too little and the tire is going to stick way out and swing into the body work. This will require a LOT larger wheel opening in front. Most of the pressed H1 wheel centers don't provide enough backspacing for the 69" wide front axle.
If you want rear disc brakes. Look into using a 2003ish GM 2500hd rear axle. They are the last of the 14-bolt axles, but had factory disc brakes with an integrated parking brake. You can get them with 3.73 or 4.10 gears factory. ny of the 14-bolt after market gears will swap in. You can also use any 14-bolt locker. They are 67" wide and a pretty good match for the D60 front.
On your blazer I don't think it has an overdrive? Even with 37" tires, 4.56 gears from the CUCV axles are going to be a bit deep.
I think your list is comprehensive but you don't really NEED all that stuff. If you have that kind of coin to spend then order away. If you don't, you can get the bigger parts and get started for a LOT less.
Don't get stuck on the CUCV stuff either. You can find a front axle out of a normal GM truck pretty easy. A front end out of a 1st gen dodge can work too I think.
Good luck on your project. Get a used 37" tire and a wheel that will fit your existing axles. By bolting this on each corner you can get a MUCH better idea of what your going to need to do. IMOO 6" of lift is WAY too much. I would try and make it work with 1-2" at most. You will be a LOT more happy in the end with the lower center of gravity.
Thanks Metcalf I appreciate the help. I agree with trying to get away with a 6" lift and maybe with some fender modification I can go down a bit.
FYI
Im not looking to make a rock crawler or dirt racer. Hence the reason I'm on this board, not that any of you might of thought that. I'm just looking to convert the blazer into a go anywhere offroad camping vehicle that will pull my M416 trailer.
FYI
Im not looking to make a rock crawler or dirt racer. Hence the reason I'm on this board, not that any of you might of thought that. I'm just looking to convert the blazer into a go anywhere offroad camping vehicle that will pull my M416 trailer.
shovelbill
Observer
here's my '85 on 35's with a 2 1/2" lift......this was a test for the 10" wide rims to see how much i needed to trim. i stayed with the factory rallys ( 8" with 4" BS) and didn't have to cut all that much. you can do a nice truck with 4" of lift......plus it will ride a lot better and probably not require new drive shafts.
honestly 3" lift, 35's and selectable lockers will take you any where you need to go, much less expensive too.
honestly 3" lift, 35's and selectable lockers will take you any where you need to go, much less expensive too.
98dango
Expedition Leader
Here is what I know from my own build's. gm 73-91
37 no cut if you keep them narrow 6" will do
37 if you trim 4" you cant hardly tell you cut
37 when you like to chop (this is me ) 0-2" you can tell but its an off road truck If you use it you will get a dent.
For most when I worked for my dad at the off road shop. I would reccomend a 6" front. Shackle flip in the rear ada leaf small block new springs ect.
37 no cut if you keep them narrow 6" will do
37 if you trim 4" you cant hardly tell you cut
37 when you like to chop (this is me ) 0-2" you can tell but its an off road truck If you use it you will get a dent.
For most when I worked for my dad at the off road shop. I would reccomend a 6" front. Shackle flip in the rear ada leaf small block new springs ect.
etech
Observer
Move the axle forward and you need less lift, ORD makes a 1" zero rate leaf that will move the axle forward 1" to 1.5 inches, and works great, I have that on my cucv with factory springs and custom shackles, with sway a way race shocks. Now I did trim my fenders a bit, but did not need to when I had 37's I now run 39" bfg projects and they only rub the battery bumps in the fender wells when fully compressed and turning< but this is because I moved the axle forward 1.5 inches, 1" would have been enough. here is some images. my total lift is at 2" rear, and 2.5" front. don't be afraid to trim, just take your time, and afterward, tack weld the edges with a tig welder and silicone bronze rod, or standard steel filler, but silicone bronze flows out easier and with less heat, but is not nearly as strong and install some rubber edging to keep it clean. I Build off road race trucks, and race as well so needless to say I like the low wide and big tire look as well. My blazer handles great and gets great millage to boot. best to date is 22 on the free way with 39's worst I have gotten is 13.5
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