M1101 trailer build UEV 440 kinda

[hamthis]

Here is my thought on the kitchen. I think it would have been a better idea to install the kitchen on the other side (passanger side) . I modeled my trailer very similar to that of the UEV 440 and the Bush Lapa. The problem I have is that both of these models are made in australia and south africa. Left sided roads!!! My brain did not click in until I started on the kitchen that I should have made everything on the other side it would make roadside quick meals easier and if I ever go to a normal camp ground then I would have to rotate the trailer backwards to utilize the kitchen in the designated table area at normal campgrounds. At the time I realized this I had gone to far to make the flip. Hind sight is 20/20!!! So I guess I have to go camping out in the wild more than in camp grounds!!


I bought the V bearings on ebay years back when I was building a small CNC.


The height on the side of the trailer is just the right height to fit in my garage with a 1/2" to spare. so total height of the trailer is around 7' - 8 1/2" (I think)

 

[RagnarD]

At least you have a good caster on the landing gear. Should be able to spin the trailer around on asphalt/concrete pretty easily.

 

[hamthis]

Well the caster that came with it is not the best its like two steel frisbee's with a hole in the middle for being brand new it sucks.

I will be upgrading it for sure.

The trailer is super easy to move around by hand. Maybe 150 lbs of tongue weight

 

[Rutdigger]

I am hoping $3-5k I am planning on doing everything including the canvas tent areas. Minus the cost of the trailer

I am not sure you will make that cost quote. I built a UEV 440 style trailer including doing all the canvass myself and I came in around the 10K mark. My final dry weight came in at #2620 with me being VERY mindful of weight as I built it from the ground up, frame and all. Those 1101 trailers are very heavy from the start so you will either have to trim that fat on the trailer or figure out some other ways to save weight as you built. I am very interested in seeing how this comes out in the final weight. Good luck, let me know if I can help you in any way. Here is a link to my build thread. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/148385-My-DIY-solution-to-the-UEV-440

 

[hamthis]

Rutdigger: Fantastic build. I don't know how I never saw it.

Tons of great info. I am looking at using a similar fabric and material like you did for most of the tent area. I'm not super concerned about weight I am pulling it with a 3/4 ton truck. I would like to keep it low if possible. The M1101 trailer itself is only about 1,100 pounds is my guess the trailer is completely aluminum even the structure. The axle and the tongue are the only steel parts I could find.

As far as the cost is concerned I have been very good on the deals. My total cost at this exact point is only $325 that includes the trailer. Well to be honest the trailer was actually a net positive of $100 I bought two trailers and sold one for the cost of them both plus $100. I will be buying a crap ton of stuff in the coming months. I'm still hoping for less than 3k out the door. one of my biggest cost was going to be the Fridge and the heater. The fridge I got for free so all I have left is the Heater. I am leaning on go to with the Propex heater they seem very simple and I would not need a large exterior vent it uses small pipes which I can divert under the trailer. LINK HERE or since reading your build I have been thinking of the Suburban heater LINK HERE The price on the Suburban heater is much better but then I have to have it on an external wall I don't have a ton of flat surfaces to mount it. Possible on the back near the door.

I like how rutdigger insulated his trailer first then sheeted it. I was thinking of doing the sheeting first then insulating it.

What are the thoughts of the crowd on pop rivets I was planning on powdercoating the upper frame on the trailer and then getting steel that they use for steel buildings for flashing it comes in 26 gauge and many different colors. I was planning on white on white. My thoughts where to use caulking between the steel and the tin for the waterproofing and then using pop rivets to secure the tin to the frame. The tin would only be installed on the flats so all the corners would be the powdercoated frame ( I have not seen this done) The pop rivets are not totally waterproof so I would have to seal each one after the install. I wanted to do this because my roof is separate than the frame as you can see in the picture there is a weather stripping steel piece that will stop water from getting in that area. This is not conventional so I want to ask your alls thoughts.

 

[hamthis]

Budget

So here is my current budget. This is a rough educated guess where I will be or end up.

I have stated earlier that after selling the first trailer I netted a positive of $100 going into the build and I got the Fridge for free from my Grandma's fifth wheel. Two big ticket items that did not go in the money bucket.

This is my list It might not be complete and not be 100% accurate. I am over my thought that I would be around 3k, but only 600 over my initial bid to the wife is not really that bad. I have a few expensive things on wish list that can easily be added a year or two down the road. Bringing my total up to $5,135.00

Let me know if I am missing a camel or something.

 

[RagnarD]

Nice to look back and see what the cost ends up. I kept one on mine too.....

 

[Rutdigger]

View attachment 324586

I like how you are thinking with this design. I experimented with different designs on mine before settling on the one I am using for my slide system. I'm not knocking it at all, just a little concerned with the fulcrum it creates on the angle iron. The angle iron is actually actually very soft metal and I am concerned that unless you use some type of support on the front of the slide (door, or drop leg) that you will get bending just past your slide mechanism. I know it feels super strong now, but it will bend over time if you don't add something. If you were to add another mechanism to each side and space them out to provide more proportional support, or even make your brackets longer, you would reduce the amount of stress on the angle iron. Great job thinking outside the box!

 

[Rutdigger]

Rutdigger: Fantastic build. I don't know how I never saw it.

I am leaning on go to with the Propex heater they seem very simple and I would not need a large exterior vent it uses small pipes which I can divert under the trailer. LINK HERE or since reading your build I have been thinking of the Suburban heater

I like how rutdigger insulated his trailer first then sheeted it. I was thinking of doing the sheeting first then insulating it.

What are the thoughts of the crowd on pop rivets I was planning on powdercoating the upper frame on the trailer and then getting steel that they use for steel buildings for flashing it comes in 26 gauge and many different colors. I was planning on white on white. My thoughts where to use caulking between the steel and the tin for the waterproofing and then using pop rivets to secure the tin to the frame. The tin would only be installed on the flats so all the corners would be the powdercoated frame ( I have not seen this done) The pop rivets are not totally waterproof so I would have to seal each one after the install. I wanted to do this because my roof is separate than the frame as you can see in the picture there is a weather stripping steel piece that will stop water from getting in that area. This is not conventional so I want to ask your alls thoughts.

View attachment 325621

I am familiar with the propex and think it would be a great heater, but NOT a fan of the price. Which is the reason I jumped at the chance to get the suburban on CL for 100 bucks. The propex is much smaller though and would be more manageable to hide. The suburban would definitely need to be mounted outside on the wall of build a space for it on the inside. It would also have to be mounted sideways for the vent layout to work.

If I were you I would actually finis out the interior walls FIRST! Hind sight is 20/20. By doing that you will have the ability to plan where things will go like lights, sockets, fuse panels, plumbing, etc, etc and more importantly have access to wiring runs and the ability to CHANGE IT before you button everything up. I can't tell you how important that is. Then when you have everything done insulate it and put the outside skin on.

I haven't seen it done that way you are talking about doing it either. It has been my experience that just that type of fastening is hard to keep sealed water tight. If you use silicon that you won't be able to paint it. Trust me, you will get the ppl that say you CAN paint silicon, and they are right....for about a week or two....then it peels off. I prefer silicon myself also, better seal and lt lasts a long time. If you are going for water resistant then overlapping seams is the way to go. Then paint the outside with a paint that fills in the gaps and creates a protective layer to further waterproof it. That is the reason I chose to use monster liner. The final dried product is actually a layer of rubberized bed liner. Perfect for sealing anything I missed. I wouldn't worry to much on the rivets leaking, as long as you get the hole right they are pretty tight.

 

[hamthis]

Thanks for the advice Rutdigger. I think you might be right on finishing the interior then sheeting the exterior.

If all goes to plan I will have the top off to powder coat in a month or two then it would be time to start on the fun stuff.

 

[Rutdigger]

Thanks for the advice Rutdigger. I think you might be right on finishing the interior then sheeting the exterior.

If all goes to plan I will have the top off to powder coat in a month or two then it would be time to start on the fun stuff.

If I ever do another one, smaller scale, that is exactly what I am going to do. It is much easier to get to everything from the outside than the inside.

 

[lilgription]

What's your plans for the skin. Nice work btw. I'm wan tinting to do something similar but removable for a trailer that's a bit smaller than yours.

 

[hamthis]

My Plan for the steel is to use 26 gauge sheet metal.

I have access to a steel building guy who can order me sheets of the material in flats.

It's usually the material that they use for custom flashings it comes in 42" wide by however long you need it. my longest length is only 8'

They have a rotary shear that can cut it to the width that I need and they could also brake the sides which I am not planning on doing.

 

[lilgription]

My Plan for the steel is to use 26 gauge sheet metal.

I have access to a steel building guy who can order me sheets of the material in flats
It's usually the material that they use for custom flashings it comes in 42" wide by however long you need it. my longest length is only 8'

They have a rotary shear that can cut it to the width that I need and they could also brake the sides which I am not planning on doing.

Will you be putting something under the skin ( Luan ) or anything similar or just straight skin??

 

[hamthis]

I'm going to use 26 gauge steel then 1" installation and then a 1/4" pre finished apple ply on the interior or a similar material . There is a diagram on post #50