M1101 Trailer Project

[SamM]

This was my solution for dropping the pintle hitch on my Schutt LQG trailer. It is very similar to the M1101. I added a receiver mount below the original steel drawbar. It was reinforced with steel plates and Grade 8 bolts but I still need to get it welded for extra insurance.



An adjustable pintle mount makes it easy to level for any vehicle. The best part of this modification is that I can use any trailer hitch system that I want now. Both my Jeep and the trailer have the same receiver mounts. The original military TorFlex axle was replaced with a Timbren Axle-Less suspension. With straight spindles this dropped the trailer even further. A big benefit of the Timbren is that the spindles are replaceable.



My solution was not expensive and this may give you some ideas. Great build!

SamM

 

[dcarteaux]

Great idea. A bit more fab than i have tools for, but something to consider. Thanks.

 

[SamM]

Probably not. I used an angle grinder, some C-clamps and a drill. Just unbolt and ditch all that heavy surge brake crap and go for it.

SamM

 

[dcarteaux]

Seriously? Good call. I can certainly find the steel and drill it (eventually).

Concerning the surge brakes, I have not heard of anyone actually connecting them up to the 12 vdc vehicles. And what you are recommending sounds like something along those same lines. Since one of my next steps is to connect the electrical, any ideas on that?

Thanks for the input - much appreciated.

 

[cyclic]

Not too different to how I did mine.

Behind my burb, both running 32" tires. Though I've recently changed rims and tires for both, I still went to the same overall heights. Just have 265/70R17 tires on both now.

 

[dcarteaux]

Cyclic, your thoughts on ball hitch vs. pintle? Mine is a heavy duty (over-built) ball/pintle combo - some travel, but works fine. Ball is big enough to fill the pintle hole, so there is not much travel in downward direction, but a little in the upward.

 

[SamM]

Seriously? Good call. I can certainly find the steel and drill it (eventually).

Concerning the surge brakes, I have not heard of anyone actually connecting them up to the 12 vdc vehicles. And what you are recommending sounds like something along those same lines. Since one of my next steps is to connect the electrical, any ideas on that?

Thanks for the input - much appreciated.

I don't recommend using the stock surge brakes. I recommend tossing them in the garbage heap. My trailer has electric brakes and I removed all the military wiring. My plans don't work with that. The beauty of how my trailer hitch is built is that you can use any hitch that works with a receiver. A ball mount, Max-Coupler, Lock N' Roll or a pintle will all work. Options are good to have. I have also eliminated the slop in the pintle by welding hex nuts onto the receivers and added bolts to tighten the hitch in the receiver. Most of the noise is from the pintle rattling in the receiver.

SamM

 

[dcarteaux]

Updated Photos

Just a couple new photos with some of the new gear - tankless water heater (still deciding its location), 16 gal water tank w/pump. The genset is a highly rated unit (per the interwebs), but one of the main reasons I chose it was (silly enough) due to the remote control.

Coming up with sliding kitchen fabrication ideas - the diamond plate aluminum will be the working surface for the slide-out. Unistrut will be the rails. Found a couple of good brackets with rollers at Lowes. Just need to cut the square hole in the side of the trailer. It is aluminum, but fairly heavy gauge, so the oscillating tool is not making it easily. Might be time for an angle grinder. Considering a jig saw, as well.

 

[cyclic]

Cyclic, your thoughts on ball hitch vs. pintle? Mine is a heavy duty (over-built) ball/pintle combo - some travel, but works fine. Ball is big enough to fill the pintle hole, so there is not much travel in downward direction, but a little in the upward.

I dislike pintle for anything other than a dedicated off road trailer. Ball hitch will cover most people for 100% of their uses. The best articulation ball hitch is the cast Bulldog style. My personal favorite would be to go with a channel mount hitch. Allows you to connect anything pintle, ball, even the LockNRoll hitch is available in a channel mount. Also allows for easy vehicle height changes. Ball mounts offer greater on road control. Just really depends on how you actually plan to use it. Most people will never do anything harder than a washed out fire road, which can be done easily with a regular ball mount type.

I will be changing to a channel mount as time and money allow. The stamped ball mount I went with was cheap and easy at the time. I'll gain about 6 inches on the hitch when I change over.

 

[dcarteaux]

I dislike pintle for anything other than a dedicated off road trailer. Ball hitch will cover most people for 100% of their uses. The best articulation ball hitch is the cast Bulldog style. My personal favorite would be to go with a channel mount hitch. Allows you to connect anything pintle, ball, even the LockNRoll hitch is available in a channel mount. Also allows for easy vehicle height changes. Ball mounts offer greater on road control. Just really depends on how you actually plan to use it. Most people will never do anything harder than a washed out fire road, which can be done easily with a regular ball mount type.

I will be changing to a channel mount as time and money allow. The stamped ball mount I went with was cheap and easy at the time. I'll gain about 6 inches on the hitch when I change over.

Thanks for that info. I am going to stick with the pintle for now while I fab the rest of the trailer. We just go from town out to the lake, where the roads are gravel and rough, but not bad. The plan is to take the trailer tongue apart eventually and mount a ball hitch underneath where the existing pintle is. I like the Bulldog and will likely go with that and some combo of channel mount. Great idea that I shied away from before but will reconsider. Thanks again.

 

[dcarteaux]

RTT installed

Got the ARB III Simpson rooftop tent installed. Fairly easy process. I was fortunate that the holes in the base lined up almost perfectly with the unistrut pieces already installed. Just a bit more fabricating and installing and it will all be camp-ready. Next step is to strap down the 16 gal water tank. Then will be copying someone's channel mount hitch installation. Will need to find a welder for that job.

 

[Lostfarmer]

Stabilization Jacks?

After dropping the height of the trailer with the new tires and wheels, are the stabilization legs still able to be fit on the back of the trailer?

As for wiring the lights on your trailer, I found it pretty easy to just connect my connector wires to the terminal block under the trailer. You don't have to hook up the blackout lights of course. That leave the existing wiring harness in place, and it is a good quality installation. I got the information on how to do it from Monkeywrench at referenceonly.wordpress.com/m1102/

I had more content to share but the timeout apparently ate it. That is frustrating. Is that common?

I like the pintle hitch myself. That is the good thing about choices. If you have options you can make them.

The surge brakes can be a booger if you are backing uphill and hit some rocks or something, but they are simple and they never short out like electrical brakes will do when the rats and mice find your wiring tasty.

Like your build and am looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

[cyclic]

After dropping the height of the trailer with the new tires and wheels, are the stabilization legs still able to be fit on the back of the trailer?

Yep, the support legs are adjustable. I really like how I can lower the hitch end, extend the support legs, and then re-raise the front end and the tires come completely off the ground. Allowing tire changes and hub work while the trailer supports itself.

 

[dcarteaux]

Still working on it...

Yep, the support legs are adjustable. I really like how I can lower the hitch end, extend the support legs, and then re-raise the front end and the tires come completely off the ground. Allowing tire changes and hub work while the trailer supports itself.

Yes, I like the adjustable legs, but not worried about wheels and such at this point. Still have the original M1101 wheels for sale cheap...I have no use for them.

My electric jack (Chinese) blew a gasket and leaked hydraulic oil, so I have a replacement for that. They sent some replacement O-rings, but not sure I am going to spend any time repairing it. Bought a new American-made unit and will test it out. I only use it to raise/lower the RTT platform, so it is not critical at the moment.

Got the 16 gal water tank in - easy. Got some steel strapping (about 1 1/2 wide) at Lowes, cut to length, dog-eared the ends and drilled with self-tappers. Put some rubber strips between the straps and the tank to prevent chafing and possible leaks.

Next step is to do more of the wiring. Got two electrical boxes (NEMA outdoor) to attach to the trailer - likely in the front over the hitch/tongue.

The trailer lights were an easy fix. Replaced everything with LEDs first, then just used the wiring diagram to splice the required wires to the standard 4-pin trailer light adapter.

Going to hold off on the trailer hitch work for a bit. I have a good solid pintle hitch, so no worries there. Long term would likely be an adjustable channel with a bulldog type mount. I like the way one of the other guys did it, and being able to replace and adjust the mount on the trailer is very cool and smart.

New photos to follow..hopefully soon.

Looking for an easy way to cover it all, so am thinking that I can just get a 20 or 30 mil waterproof tarp (less than $200). The plan is to remove the RTT, put down some good plywood and connect it to the frame, then install the tarp over that, then put the RTT back on top of it all. Will figure out best way to strap down the tarp for a good taut fit and some physical security.

 

[sgthawk]

Great idea! Im going to have to shamelessly steel your idea.

This was my solution for dropping the pintle hitch on my Schutt LQG trailer. It is very similar to the M1101. I added a receiver mount below the original steel drawbar. It was reinforced with steel plates and Grade 8 bolts but I still need to get it welded for extra insurance.

View attachment 386867

An adjustable pintle mount makes it easy to level for any vehicle. The best part of this modification is that I can use any trailer hitch system that I want now. Both my Jeep and the trailer have the same receiver mounts. The original military TorFlex axle was replaced with a Timbren Axle-Less suspension. With straight spindles this dropped the trailer even further. A big benefit of the Timbren is that the spindles are replaceable.

View attachment 386866

My solution was not expensive and this may give you some ideas. Great build!

SamM