XKTX85
New member
Your build looks EPIC! You seem to already have the skill set to tackle so much of it. My welds are hit or miss, I've never built drawers before, or did any kind of gas work, this project is really driving my learning process.
M116A3 Adventure Trailer Build
- Thread starter XKTX85
- Start date
Your build looks EPIC! You seem to already have the skill set to tackle so much of it. My welds are hit or miss, I've never built drawers before, or did any kind of gas work, this project is really driving my learning process.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Mine were the same on my first build, and are far from perfect still. But they get hot and make metal stick. So.. ?
I think that's part of the fun though. Push your skills on something that isn't such a big deal. In the end we all just want to get out there and explore a bit and have some fun. I like what you are doing!
XKTX85
New member
I finally got back to work on the trailer this weekend. I made a whole series of concepts to try and decide if there was more welding to do before paint and body.
I made this one to convince my daughter that well do a rooftop tent...she's pretty set on that.
I decided to make the rear storage dry as opposed to my old idea so I picked up two more boat hatches.
Despite keeping the trailer in the garage, Georgia humidity still left patches of surface rust on my well prepared frame. So I spent several hours grinding and sanding everything all over again. I also used some auto body filler to clean-up the welds that would be exposed on the exterior of the trailer, (this stuff dries fast and is a mess to work with), it turned out great though, really glad I added this step.
After cleaning everything up, I put up plastic and did two coats of primer. I'm using the Rustoleum "Professional" spray cans. I've never really used spray paint on something I cared about looking good, but after a couple YouTube videos I went to it.
After a late night, I headed out early this morning to buy two more HMMWV wheels and tires. I just wanted one for a spare but he made a good deal and I took them both.
I'm gonna try getting the frame painted and complete tomorrow. I'm gonna have to save this month to buy the sheet metal...still debating steal vs aluminum. I think I'll go get it weighed soni know how much I can work with.
I made this one to convince my daughter that well do a rooftop tent...she's pretty set on that.
I decided to make the rear storage dry as opposed to my old idea so I picked up two more boat hatches.
Despite keeping the trailer in the garage, Georgia humidity still left patches of surface rust on my well prepared frame. So I spent several hours grinding and sanding everything all over again. I also used some auto body filler to clean-up the welds that would be exposed on the exterior of the trailer, (this stuff dries fast and is a mess to work with), it turned out great though, really glad I added this step.
After cleaning everything up, I put up plastic and did two coats of primer. I'm using the Rustoleum "Professional" spray cans. I've never really used spray paint on something I cared about looking good, but after a couple YouTube videos I went to it.
After a late night, I headed out early this morning to buy two more HMMWV wheels and tires. I just wanted one for a spare but he made a good deal and I took them both.
I'm gonna try getting the frame painted and complete tomorrow. I'm gonna have to save this month to buy the sheet metal...still debating steal vs aluminum. I think I'll go get it weighed soni know how much I can work with.
XKTX85
New member
Got caught in the rain picking up the tires and all the spots that missed primer were rusting in no time. I sanded everything down again and put another coat of primer down. Then Sunday I started adding paint. I used the flat black Rustoleum "Professional " enamel. It took 6 cans...and I think I'll get on more for some thin spots.
Really happy with the texture and once it cured it feels pretty durable. I plan to do all the decking with roll-on bedliner.
Really happy with the texture and once it cured it feels pretty durable. I plan to do all the decking with roll-on bedliner.
XKTX85
New member
Went back to work on the tailgate. My original attempt ended up too tall when folded parallel to the ground. Today I cut the hinges thinking that was the problem...1st lesson, "measure twice, cut once", except I didn't measure at all and winged it and they were several inches too short.
Fortunately, it came in a set of 4, so I tried again.
And that's when I realized the height had nothing to do with the arm length but how far the hinge bolt was from the trailer. At this point I decided to just accept this as a lesson learned and move forward with it as is. In the future I'll use cables to hold up the tailgate and if I want to use a fridge slide I'll just drop it all the way.
I'm out of paint and primer so I moved on to something else. I tried to repair my parking brakes. Both were rusted through in the same spot. I cut two small peices of scrap to put the handle back together. And attempted to weld the inside of the handles. One of the mounts were also bent. I tried to straighten them out and Jerry rigged it to work.
I got the left brake to work! It was really cool to be able to lock it up without running around to throw a choke block behind the wheel....then I broke the handle. And then I broke the rusty right side brake cable.
I might try one more time to rebuild them...or just buy new assemblies. Even thought about going to a pick and pull and just trying to get two matching parking brake assemblies and replacing these.
I also started looking at how to mount the spare tire. I wanted to do a rear swingout but until I downsize from these super heavy HMMWV tires it doesn't seem feasible. The easiest option that I have everything I need to do is mounting it on the tongue, but then I'm significantly increasing tongue weight....and these 37s look huge on the front.
I think I'll put it underneath using a hoist mount but that'll mean I need to remove the rear stabilizer, but I'm not opposed to that idea.
Something like this...
Fortunately, it came in a set of 4, so I tried again.
And that's when I realized the height had nothing to do with the arm length but how far the hinge bolt was from the trailer. At this point I decided to just accept this as a lesson learned and move forward with it as is. In the future I'll use cables to hold up the tailgate and if I want to use a fridge slide I'll just drop it all the way.
I'm out of paint and primer so I moved on to something else. I tried to repair my parking brakes. Both were rusted through in the same spot. I cut two small peices of scrap to put the handle back together. And attempted to weld the inside of the handles. One of the mounts were also bent. I tried to straighten them out and Jerry rigged it to work.
I got the left brake to work! It was really cool to be able to lock it up without running around to throw a choke block behind the wheel....then I broke the handle. And then I broke the rusty right side brake cable.
I might try one more time to rebuild them...or just buy new assemblies. Even thought about going to a pick and pull and just trying to get two matching parking brake assemblies and replacing these.
I also started looking at how to mount the spare tire. I wanted to do a rear swingout but until I downsize from these super heavy HMMWV tires it doesn't seem feasible. The easiest option that I have everything I need to do is mounting it on the tongue, but then I'm significantly increasing tongue weight....and these 37s look huge on the front.
I think I'll put it underneath using a hoist mount but that'll mean I need to remove the rear stabilizer, but I'm not opposed to that idea.
Something like this...
Boucher
Member
Cool Project these trailers tow really good ..... I actually did a square drop camper build last winter off the same platform, I kept the 37" as they matched my H2 tires unfortunately I had a blowout this summer so I dropped them down to 35's using my old rims. I also installed a rear tire carrier under the trailer however due to the tire size it protruded too much so I just put the spare in the back of my rig. I will work to remove the surge brakes this winter and add a different hitch.
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XKTX85
New member
I'm really questioning if I should have gone this route...you have an awesome build! Do you have a build thread on here?
Boucher
Member
Unfortunately, I don't but I can share anything you wish. I originally was going to go with something like yours, I was going to take the small fleetwood pop-up I had and mount it but I didn't like the time it took to set it up so I sold it and went this route, The unit has a 30-gallon water tank and 2 105 AMP hour batteries, I also added its own type of air up down where the tow rig will air down and inflate the tires from the tow rig, the roof was completed using an RV rubber roof with two 100 Watt solar panels I have since added another to the front area too.
TripLeader
Explorer
Great work so far! Thanks for documenting it.
XKTX85
New member
What is your power setup like with 2x batteries?
I want to be able to expand it overtime, but the more I research the more I feel like I just have to go all in. I want a 100ah+agm, and start with a shore power setup and a trickle charge from the 7pin. Then once I add the RTT also add solar on top.
But if I'm doing a DC to DC charger and Inverter I might as well buy one that incorporates solar right off the bat. Honestly I am still trying to understand 12v power systems. I really just want enough for some lights, a fridge, and a water pump. I anticipate the most I'll spend off grid in the near future is 4-5 days.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
XKTX85
New member
Thanks for the feedback! It's been a pretty rewarding project.
Boucher
Member
Power is good , after researching I went all in using two Lion batteries , with a Renogy controller , Other items I added was LED everything I could , even the TV is LED. When doing the build I tried to use items I already had to keep the cost down, because of this I don't have a fridge setup for it as the Hummer has its own 110 AH battery, this battery controls the fridge and air compressor inside the Hummer. The Hummer can also help charge the camper batteries while driving if needed. To date I haven't seen the camper go below 85 %. I will share my cad files and electrical setup pictures once I get access to my other computer.
Attachments
XKTX85
New member
It's been awhile since I posted an update. In December I installed brake lights, a new 7pin
trailer harness, and wired up all of the lights.
The light install went pretty smoothly, I cut out holes for each light using my angle grinder. The holes isn't quite level but unless you're looking for it you probably won't see it. The lights I got included reverse lights. After I ran all of the wiring and tested it, I then loomed all of the wires, and use zip ties to tie everything into a nice clean professional look.
trailer harness, and wired up all of the lights.
The light install went pretty smoothly, I cut out holes for each light using my angle grinder. The holes isn't quite level but unless you're looking for it you probably won't see it. The lights I got included reverse lights. After I ran all of the wiring and tested it, I then loomed all of the wires, and use zip ties to tie everything into a nice clean professional look.
XKTX85
New member
In December my daughter and I took the trailer from Georgia to Texas, hauling our camping gear and the Christmas presents for the family. It tows really well with a load in the back. While we were in Texas we did a 3 night camping trip to travel first to Corpus Christi, and then to travel the full length of the Padre Island National Seashore.
On the trip there I picked up two used deep cycle AGM UPS (uninterrupted power system) batteries from a guy outside Atlanta. The batteries are used for backup power at data centers, each is 140 amp hours. They weigh a ton, but at $60 each it seemed like a great investment. I have them in parallel so 280amp hours. To charge them I have a NOCO Gen10x1 that charges and maintains them while parked in the garage or at a campsite with power.
Also on the trip I got the tonneau cover I wanted for $100 a roll-up hard top that I intended to cut to the correct width...
...but due to a rookie move it got ripped off by the wind in the middle of the night somewhere between Houston and Lafayette...still salty about it.
In preparation for a trip this summer to do the Georgia Traverse, I added the inside walls and wired up an inverter to the batteries. I used a combination of Very High Bond adhesive (VHB) tape and rivets to attach the inside panels. The panels are old street signs I got from the county roadway department.
Additionally, a friend of mine had his Gladiator totalled and gave me the bed rack he had their roof top tent mounted on. This was a great advancement for me, since I don't have to fabricate that addition. I also added a tailgate, but I still need to assemble latches/locks.
In June my daughter and I took the trailer and our dogs on a 6 day trip through the mountains of North Georgia. The trailer performed great! And our first test of the power set-up was waffles for breakfast.
Last update. Instead of painting over the street signs, I got 300 vinyl camping and outdoor stickers for my daughter to plaster the inside walls. The plan is to put stickers from our actual travels on top, but it gives a unique look to our project.
On the trip there I picked up two used deep cycle AGM UPS (uninterrupted power system) batteries from a guy outside Atlanta. The batteries are used for backup power at data centers, each is 140 amp hours. They weigh a ton, but at $60 each it seemed like a great investment. I have them in parallel so 280amp hours. To charge them I have a NOCO Gen10x1 that charges and maintains them while parked in the garage or at a campsite with power.
Also on the trip I got the tonneau cover I wanted for $100 a roll-up hard top that I intended to cut to the correct width...
...but due to a rookie move it got ripped off by the wind in the middle of the night somewhere between Houston and Lafayette...still salty about it.
In preparation for a trip this summer to do the Georgia Traverse, I added the inside walls and wired up an inverter to the batteries. I used a combination of Very High Bond adhesive (VHB) tape and rivets to attach the inside panels. The panels are old street signs I got from the county roadway department.
Additionally, a friend of mine had his Gladiator totalled and gave me the bed rack he had their roof top tent mounted on. This was a great advancement for me, since I don't have to fabricate that addition. I also added a tailgate, but I still need to assemble latches/locks.
In June my daughter and I took the trailer and our dogs on a 6 day trip through the mountains of North Georgia. The trailer performed great! And our first test of the power set-up was waffles for breakfast.
Last update. Instead of painting over the street signs, I got 300 vinyl camping and outdoor stickers for my daughter to plaster the inside walls. The plan is to put stickers from our actual travels on top, but it gives a unique look to our project.