M416 Build by RocketmanDane

  • Thread starter Deleted member 43491
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Deleted member 43491

Guest
For the Newbies like me! Got a couple PM about specifications of my trailer and was able to find this link and you can download a copy of the manual for free!
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/trailer/m416.pdf


Link to how i am cleaning some of the smaller parts for my trailer! http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/75708-“Green”-Rust-Removal-Part-Cleaning

OK where to start?
I recently purchased a M416 trailer in the San Antonio area .I am planning to clean and repair the trailer in its current form for long term use. Once all holes are patched, rust removed; repainted and reassembled I will move onto further modifications. The first 2 modifications I plan to make is the addition of a approximately 6 inch tall lid and a tailgate. This portion of the build must be completed no later then the end of June of this year 2012(I am moving cross country and am planning to use it for that trip)

What have I done so far?
1. Removed the tub from the frame (had to cut 2 brackets in half and about 12 inches of bead welds attaching the rear to the frame)
2. Removed all wiring, light brackets, parking break lever. Trailer is now down to rolling chassis and hitch.
3. Removed the large bracket added by previous owner only small nubs are left that I must grind.(My grinder burned up within a hour into the build… so much for HF!)

About the tub:
I discovered the tub has been refinished in the past. What I thought to be rust on a large portion of the bottom of the tub was in fact red primer paint that was coated in dirt and was easily cleaned with a hose. Also I discovered what I thought to be caked on dirt is in fact the type of underbody liner (like paint on rubber) used on cars and when scrapped of also revealed large areas of perfect painted metal.

There is one hole about the size of a dime (where a eye bolt use to be to restrain a welder) that is surrounded with rust along with 4 or 5 holes about the diameter of a pencil towards the front of the tub( where further brackets were used to hold the welder in place) also have small areas of rust around them.

There is also 3 or 4 patches about the size of a dollar bill that have exposed surface rust but no pitting.

The inside of the tub looks a little rough but have not had a chance to remove any of the flaking paint which comprises most of the floor of the tub.

About the chassis:
The chassis are also in better shape then I thought they were going to be. They have also been sanded and repainted in the past and the plastic type liner on the bottom of the tube help to prevent any major rust on the top of the frame. There are some problem spots internally to the u channel frame and the area where the l shaped metal was attached to carry tools of some form are going to require heavy grinding to remove the welds..
Shocks are destroyed, Tires need replacement

Questions for others
Ideas or suggestions for rust removal?
Have considered having it sandblasted but have yet to find a place in the SAT area that does it at a decent price? Any ideas of approximate cost?
Suggestions for paint removal?
IMG_1509.jpgIMG_1550.jpgIMG_1535.jpgIMG_1492.jpgIMG_1449.jpgIMG_1329.jpgIMG_1307.jpgIMG_1303.jpgIMG_1520.jpgIMG_1591.jpg
 
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DonBeasley

Adventurer
Great find. The tub and trailer look in really good shape. I am in Dallas and I had my tub sandblasted for about $300 and that included powdercoating in basic grey. Yours is in much better shape then mine was. There are lots of threads on lids. Everything from purchased ones to self-fab'd ones. Most are of 1" steel with a steel skin and some are aluminum.

Several good threads on tailgates as well. Big issue with cutting out the rear panel is tub flex. The tub was designed to have 4 solid sides so removing one makes the entire body flex too much. Look at the tailgate threads that have added structural support to the tailgate area. Also look at and even talk to some of the trailer builders here on the site. Sierra 4x4 and AT both offer good advice for free. Great guys.

Just my 2 cents. Lots of more knowledgeable folks here that can help more than I.

Keep the pictures coming.

BTW are you the one that found 2? What happened to the white one?
 
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Deleted member 43491

Guest
Thanks for the input! Yes i was the one looking at the 2 of them. As far as i know i got a email from the guy today and the white one was still available. I do have additional pics of it if interested. He was firm at 300 not a penny less he also had M101A2's 3/4 tons in really nice condition for 800 solid not a penny less i know they are to big for most people but they were really nice. Here is the craigslist link for the one for 300. http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/grd/2824390729.html It was rough but possibly could have some potential...
 

Vince1

Adventurer
Very nice starter you got there. Would go for well over $1000 in that condition here in CO. I say spend the money on sandblasting and be done with it. I sanded mine for days, dust was everywhere, and still unhappy with finish. Can't wait to see your progress pics.
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
X2 on getting it sandblasted. It will take care of the rust removal, and paint removal, in one step.

My compressor went on the fritz in the middle of my build.:snorkel: I did most of the tub with a wire wheel on a grinder, and not real happy with how the paint turned out.

Good Luck on the build!
 
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Deleted member 43491

Guest
Def going to try and get it blasted! Still looking for somewhere in San Antonio to get it done...... Pro and con of today's 4 hours of work I discovered the spare tire that came with the trailer might still be good! It just appears to be loose at the bead I believe it's called where the tire attaches to the rim(Or i might be wrong... i think from what i read that it is actually a tubed tire......). So tomorrow I'm going to carefully pull it all the way off and inspect it! Con of the day spent about 3 hrs scrapping the inside of the tub and discovered that there is more surface rust then I expected. It isn't eaten thru to the bottom hence the good condition of the underside but still not good....hopefully in the next day or 2 I will get around to cutting off all the extra pieces of metal! Going to pick up a torch tomorrow!
 

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DonBeasley

Adventurer
Not surprised about the rust in the bottom. Mine had about 20 pinholes that only showed up when I sandblasted it. Spot weld the big ones and bedline the small ones.
 

voodoojk

Adventurer
im getting mine blasted. From what i read on all the threads about these trailers, its not worth the time to hand sand.
 

DonBeasley

Adventurer
Here are some before and after shots:

Justpickedup5.jpg


Frameoff2-1.jpg


Framewfenderscomingoff.jpg


Parts2.jpg


trailerwithpropaneandrotopax.jpg


Go with the sandblasting! Powdercoat the frame if you can. Yes I know it is more expensive that sanding it yourself but at my age it is worth writing the check (does anyone besides me write checks).

All of my stuff, my jeep, my guns, and now my trailer, will all be passed on to my son. I expect that the jeep and trailer will still be going in another 40 years, at least I am building for that! Sandblast and spend the extra time that you gained from not sanding, in rebuilding the axle, working on the battery box, attaching a lid, etc.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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S4RSSS

Adventurer
nice choice of color! I like it. I just had mine sandblasted, and epoxied/painted recently...

before and after:
2011-11-08_14-06-02_293.jpg

2011-11-08_14-05-37_876.jpg

2012-01-16_12-45-30_559.jpg
 

DonBeasley

Adventurer
Exactly why blasting is the way to go. Whatever paint/powdercoating you use just comes out looking better.

The tub is in great shape.
 
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Deleted member 43491

Guest
Got my first quote on sandblasting today! Asking 200 dollars just for the sandblasting and cant powder coat.... Not sure if that's a good deal or not????....

I need opinions on rattle canning if i just have it blasted???

I have found i think 3 Rustoleum types 1. The rust converter kind 2. The rust prevention / inhibitor type 3. The regular glossy type that i don't think does anything for rust...

My first thought while like a dollar more and only comes in flat brown or black is to use the rust converter type just in case anything is left on after blasting And then i can go back later with the glossy in what ever color i choose after all the rest of the repairs and additions are complete.

Thoughts?
 

Mark Harley

Expedition Leader
$200.00 to sandblast seems like a good deal if they do a good job.
My M101A2 was built in 1990 and was clean when I got it with little rust.


My blog: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...d-a-Military-trailer-to-build-a-family-hauler


I painted mine with a Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun $12.99 and it worked great with solvent based paint.
I sprayed it in the back yard and it turned out very nice. I used shaker cans for the frame but I could have done the frame with the gun too!
 

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S4RSSS

Adventurer
$200 was how much i paid for mine as well. plus the shop was just 1.5 miles from my house, so it made transporting the pieced out parts much easier.
 

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