M416 build- need advice

[bankska11]

Just picked up this M416 and I’m excited to get working on it. PO started the build for a trip to Colorado then lost interest. Overall in pretty good shape with new steel floor, adjustable RTT rack (DIY), RTT, new tires, new wiring, new paint (decent DIY job), new simple 2” ball coupler welded on, and a DIY front rack. Very little rust spots (see pics). Some rust underneath on suspension parts. DIY welding is decent, but far from professional. It tows great.

My off-the-cuff plans are to add a tailgate, some sort of a cooking platform, beefed-up side steps, battery power system, lighting, awning, spare tire carrier, and I’m sure I’m missing others.

I mainly needed it for extra storage and RTT functionality and primary use will be light trail riding and camping with family. Will be pulled by a 100 series Land Cruiser built for overlanding.

I’m not one for glitz and glamour, I just want durable functionality. I’ve read a ton of build threads and folks seem to be all over the map with various things they think are necessary.

Here is where I need some initial advice:

Suspension- It appears to have all stock parts that don’t look like they’re in great shape. See pics. Do I need to replace the shocks and leaf springs? If so, where would I find specs/parts, and given that I’m not rock crawling in Moab, how important is upgrading the suspension keeping it standard/stock? If it doesn’t cost much more to upgrade, I’d probably do it; better to have it and not need it vs need it and not have it! Again, it tows great, so is this a “don’t fix til it breaks” situation?

Stabilizers- Do you recommend adding stabilizers to drop down to use when tent is folded out? If so, what are folks using?

Coupler- is it recommended to add an “off road coupler”?

Pin hole rust spots- what is the best way to fix this? I’m not a welder and don’t plan to learn, so what are most folks doing to address this? There are not many, and they’re all on the tops of the sides. It doesn’t bother me, but want to make sure it doesn’t get worse. See pics.

Axle- there is a lot of talk about axles on here and candidly, most of it is stuff I don’t understand. Can someone shoot me straight on reasons to change out the axle?

Any advice will be appreciated!

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[50 fiver]

If it was mine, I would pull the tub off and get the frame and suspension cleaned up and painted, probably replace the springs and shocks for starters. These trailers were built to be abused, and likely have been during their life, as such, all the components are probably up to the task of towing and mild off-road trips. Most people replace the axle to strengthen it and to get matching wheels with their tow vehicles. As for the rust spots on the tub, pay someone to weld them up for you and then clean and paint the tub. The coupler should be fine for most everything you want to do... stabilizers aren't necessary as long as you have a landing leg or leave it attatched to your tow vehicle, but I would still chock the wheels. I have not used mine as much as I would have liked, but these are some of the things I did to mine and am still in the process of getting it where I want it to be.... I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in, as these are very popular trailers to overland with at this time.

 

[Robert Bills]

Ditto on pulling the tub to get at the frame and suspension. Do replace springs, spring hangars, bushings, shocks, seals, bearings, etc.

Don't be too quick to plan your build around wheels and tires matching your tow rig. BTDT. You will change tow rigs some day and the lug pattern may not be the same. The wheels and tires on your tow rig are also likely much larger and much heavier than what you need on your trailer since your trailer has neither steer nor drive axles. There are really only two reasons to choose matching wheels and tires on your trailer - extra spare tires for your tow rig and aesthetics. Having towed WWII and post-war military trailers for more than 50 years I can tell you from experience that in the long run neither reason is worth the time, trouble and expense of lifting the trailer, modifying the fenders, adding a wider axle to fit wider tires, etc. Perhaps back in the day when 31" tires on a tow rig were considered large, but not now in the day of 33", 35" and 37" tow rig tires. I carry a tire repair kit for the trailer. It has always been enough. If I wanted a spare I would add one the same size as the trailer tires before I would try matching trailer tires to the tow rig.

Also, don't be too quick to ditch the stock axle and replace it with aftermarket. If you want or need electric brakes on your trailer an aftermarket axle will be required, but unless you are adding brakes or need a wider axle to fit oversize tires the stock axle is more than up to the task of whatever you could throw at a Dexter or other aftermarket axle.

I would add a rear stabilizer of some sort. It isn't needed when the trailer is hooked to the tow rig, but I can also tell you from experience that someone will inevitably pass by and lean on the rear of your unhitched trailer, tipping it and causing everything inside to slide out if you have a tail gate. A rear stabilizer will prevent that.

Your Fulton coupler is probably okay, but I cannot tell from the photos the length of the tongue. You may want to investigate using 2" receiver tube for the coupler so that you can have varying tongue lengths depending upon the tow rig and/or the terrain. If you have the money to invest, a Lock and Roll or a Max Coupler articulating coupler is a great addition.


My 1946 Bantam T3-C #9466, for reference:

Bantam T3-C - The G503 Album

Robert Bills's 1946 Bantam T3-C #9466

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