M416

[Blitzburg]

Picked up a M416 recently and I'm getting ready to customize, etc, etc,

Q: Is there any company that sells full replacement floors for the tub?

Q: Where and how are most attaching a spare to?

Q: Any good ideas of getting dents and wrinkles out of the tub sides? I would think that it would be to thick to simply use a hammer and dolly but I haven't tried yet.

 

[Blitzburg]

WOW! 89 views and not one person has an answer to not one of my three questions?

 

[Tanto]

I really don't know much about these trailers but do like following the threads, this one is discussing replacement tubs: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=310327#post310327

The links to vendor sites there may be able to help. Otherwise, a bunch of old Jeep trailer builds have popped up recently. Try looking through those for ideas.

 

[Robert Bills]

WOW! 89 views and not one person has an answer to not one of my three questions?

Don't be so impatient. Most of the regulars here have jobs and lives independent of the Internet and it's not always possible to get an answer in a day, particularly when the questions have been asked and answered in this forum many times before. [Hint: try the search function - there are recent threads with posts specifically related to your first two questions.]

Also, your attitude isn't likely to get you the answers you want. For example:

Q: Is there a company that sells full replacement floors for the tub?
Yes.

Q: Where and how are most attaching a spare to?
To their trailers, with a lug wrench.

Q: Any good ideas of getting dents and wrinkles out of the tub sides. . . ?
There are many good ideas.

 

[Tumbleweed]

Some folks mount the spare on the tongue against the front of the bed. If you run a narrow tire, you can mount a tire winch mount under the bed off the cross brace in front of the axle. I used a winch mount from a newer Dodge Ram full sized truck (junkyard $15). I run 33x12.5 tires so my spare is going to be a 6x16" rim with skinny tire that is nearly as tall as my 33's.
Tongue mounted spares usually hinder rear visibility, and take lots of available room from the tongue area.
I have seen spares mounted on the side of the bed in front of the fender. This really makes the trailer quite wide since the tire has to clear the top of the trailer.
And, some folks opt to change the tire lug pattern on the trailer axle to fit their tow rigs pattern. That way the tow rigs spare can double as the trailer spare.

 

[Cruiser]

I have some ways of removing dents,, but its when it was crushed from above.. Show some pics of your bed and I'll see If I can steer you in the right direction,,
And on the floor,, are you planning afull restoration,, or just making a expedition type trailer? I was at a MV show and saw one 416 floor, and m100 floors, the 416 I believe is 2" wider, and harder to find.. If your not going to restore it,, best bet is getting a truck bed floor and cutting it to fit. Looks factory,, just missing the drains.. If you do a search here I believe someone has a thread with pictures.. And if you still want drains,, just use the screw drain on a 55 drum welded into a corner of the new floor..
Good luck,, and we need pics.. Which I should post some of my own,, but we are having a snow/ice storm.. again..

 

[mjm]

There are replacement tub sheetmetal sources for older trailers. To my knowledge, there are no re-pop M416 floors. You might look at the G503 forum and see if someone has a tub for sale. I have seen several folks who used flat sheet metal and floors from trucks.

Yahoo has a m416 forum. There are several picture of spare tire ideas there.

 

[elcoyote]

If you haven't already, using the search feature here on ExPo, several threads come up for "M416" and "416". In one thread replacement tub resources are listed. You may find your needed parts there.

Good luck.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

I would just buy sheet metal and replace it that way, if it were me... The embossed/pressed floor is nice but not necessary.

 

[IH8RDS]

I would just buy sheet metal and replace it that way, if it were me... The embossed/pressed floor is nice but not necessary.

Thats what I did

 

[Blitzburg]

Don't be so impatient. Most of the regulars here have jobs and lives independent of the Internet and it's not always possible to get an answer in a day, particularly when the questions have been asked and answered in this forum many times before. [Hint: try the search function - there are recent threads with posts specifically related to your first two questions.]

Also, your attitude isn't likely to get you the answers you want. For example:

Q: Is there a company that sells full replacement floors for the tub?
Yes.

Q: Where and how are most attaching a spare to?
To their trailers, with a lug wrench.

Q: Any good ideas of getting dents and wrinkles out of the tub sides. . . ?
There are many good ideas.

AWESOME! Thanks for the wonderfully helpful info there. There's one on every forum.


Thanks for all the other truely helpful responses. Any suggestion on what gauge would be good for the floor. I got pitting in the floor and a few really small holes (Smaller than a pencil say) I'm wondering if it would still hold up if I were just to linex the inside and bottom without doing no metal repair. I'd post photos up but it's covered in snow right now. Thanks again sincerely for the helpful responses.

 

[mjm]

pitting in the floor and a few really small holes (Smaller than a pencil say) I'm wondering if it would still hold up if I were just to linex the inside and bottom without doing no metal repair.

The holes can be repaired using sheetmetal and a welder. The deeper pits can be filled using a torch and brass rod. Linex might be ok if the pits are shallow.

 

[fireflyr]

I have an M100 and mounted a spare on the rear with a receiver cut in the rear frame member. The only problem is that you need weight in the front of the trailer or it tends to get out of control at speed. If I was to do it again I'd mount it up front.

This trailer had been used as a target box and had holes up to .50 cal in the floor and sides. We welded them up holding a piece of aluminum on the back side and ground them flush. As for straightening the box, I used a hydraulic jack against some 4x6 planks.

This was the idea behind the whole thing. You'd have to put a couple hundred #s in front of the axle to make it towable. I figured a H2O tank would do.

Here's how it all started:

 

[Blitzburg]

Thanks, that's real good info, I dodn't think about where to mount it in relationship to weight distribution. Great point.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Does someone actually make a replacement floor for these, I hadn't heard that...