Manual Battery Disconnect Switch - Actuated from Inside or Outside Tongue Box

[lesabret]

I'm putting together my layout for the power system for a teardrop with the batteries, inverter/charger etc. in the tongue box.
I'm trying to decide whether to keep the battery disconnect switch link here mounted on the component board inside the tongue box such that access to the box would be necessary to flip the switch off in an emergency or to mount the switch on the box itself as a bulkhead mount such that the switch body is inside the box, but the switch actuator handle is on the outside.

If outside, then the batteries can be disconnected without having to gain access to the box if it should be locked.
But, some ne'er do well could happen by and throw the switch off as a prank if outside.

If inside, more control over who can throw the switch, but again, if box is locked and key not readily available, then a small problem may become a large problem.

What do you all think? Are there regs or code that say you ought to do one way or the other?

Thanks,

Dave

Edited: There's a locking hole on the switch handle that a padlock could be attached to, but that would be the same as needing a key to the tongue box.

 

[schulz11]

I'm putting together my layout for the power system for a teardrop with the batteries, inverter/charger etc. in the tongue box.
I'm trying to decide whether to keep the battery disconnect switch link here mounted on the component board inside the tongue box such that access to the box would be necessary to flip the switch off in an emergency or to mount the switch on the box itself as a bulkhead mount such that the switch body is inside the box, but the switch actuator handle is on the outside.

If outside, then the batteries can be disconnected without having to gain access to the box if it should be locked.
But, some ne'er do well could happen by and throw the switch off as a prank if outside.

If inside, more control over who can throw the switch, but again, if box is locked and key not readily available, then a small problem may become a large problem.

What do you all think? Are there regs or code that say you ought to do one way or the other?

Thanks,

Dave

Edited: There's a locking hole on the switch handle that a padlock could be attached to, but that would be the same as needing a key to the tongue box.

If it were me, I would put it closer to the battery as I could. All pranks aside, I would rather have to go out and flip the switch if one of my buddies decided to pull a prank. Now, I also go for connivence and would also install (or use) a switch inside the trailer so I could turn off any phantom draw while I sleep or am away. That way, if someone turned on my switch by the battery, still not power would be lost. As for the ease of turning off the power inside, why do you need it under lock and key - just hide it out of the way.

 

[lesabret]

Battery Disconnect

I didn't do a good job of communicating the layout.

Whether I locate the switch inside or outside the tongue box, it will be close to the batteries.
If inside, it will be on the board where components are mounted, immediately following the master fuse which is directly in line from the batteries:

Batteries --> Fuse --> Switch -->Remainder of Power System

I'm guessing maybe 18-24" from batteries' positive post to the fuse and if the switch is mounted to the component board, then at most, another 6" to the switch terminals.
If the switch is to be accessed from outside the tongue box, then same setup between batteries and fuse and then maybe 6-12" to switch terminals.
The switch's body and terminals remain inside the box wall and only the bezel and handle are outside.
Electrically and physically, the switch is close to the batteries and fuse either way.

Actually, the distances I quoted could be less, but my plan is for the component board to sit above the batteries and be able to be lifted up and set on top of the box for easy access to the batteries and easier positioning if I need to work on something on the component board (I don't like bending over in a standing position to work on stuff). So there will be a bit of a "service loop" of battery cable added, hence the 18-24" quoted.

If I were to leave the trailer at the campsite and go for a hike or drive the tow vehicle away, I would plan on locking the tongue box and the doors to the cabin.
My debate with myself is whether it's better to have the switch inside the tongue box so that no one can come along and turn it off and remove power to the fridge or to chance that scenario and have it accessible outside the box so if there is a problem and I'm not in the vicinity someone can try and help by turning the switch off.

As far as a second switch located in the cabin to turn power off overnight to prevent parasitic power consumption, I would consider it, but wouldn't run battery cables into the cabin. I think I'd have to try a high current relay in tongue box actuated by a low current switch command from the cabin. . . . an interesting idea.

Thanks for the feedback.

Dave

 

[jatibb]

http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/952/medium_duty_battery_selector_switch_with_afd/

works great in boats for many years...........