MD368210 Grooved Idler Pulley = rare bird

[clmrt]

I have noise coming from the accessory drive. I removed the belt and the alternator spins freely. No apparent issue with the fan or PS. But the grooved pulley above the tensioner does appear to be shot. Good, one bolt fix.

However, they are not available anywhere locally, nor are they on Rock Auto right now. I had to special order one from either AutoZone (3 day expedited delivery) or OEM Mitsu at 1-2 weeks and $30 more.

I went the AZ route.

My regular parts guy said these aren't supported by aftermarket suppliers for their chain of stores. If you own one of these vehicles, be advised. Perhaps this is not the case for you locally, or I am missing something, but these pullies are rare and expensive. Once I pull it I will see if I can rebuild it, but it's my only vehicle right now so I cannot disable it. I will drive it sparingly until I get the replacement.

Tags:

2003 Limited Gen3 3.8 Idler Pulley Grooved.

 

[KyleT]

Yep. Amazon canceled my order and it wasn't prime. Dayco p/n was what I ordered.


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[plh]

https://www.amazon.com/Febest-Mitsubishi-Pulley-Idler-Md368210/dp/B00C6MW25Q

This one is on my '05 for a little more than 2 years now.

While you are at it, the pulley on the tensioner is rebuild-able with this bearing:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VGN1KW/

 

[Swank Force One]

Rockauto normally carries both in Dayco brand. I ordered them a week or so ago, have them sitting on my desk to be installed Tuesday.

 

[clmrt]

I put myself down for a restock notification on RA.

 

[Swank Force One]

There's some on Ebay as well if that helps. Apologies if i took the last ones on RA. The ones on our truck are in absolutely horrid shape though. Sounds like a clapped out 80s Silverado.

 

[clmrt]

No worries. It'll be here Wednesday, from Memphis.

Funny, I was at Car Quest, looking through available inventory. None in the entire country except 1 in Memphis. I wonder if AZ and CQ tap the same supplier.

Anyway, as far as they are concerned, I got the last one in the US.

 

[KyleT]

Tried again on Amazon for the dayco. Two out of stock cancellations so far and one damaged in the box before shipping. So hopefully it will work this time.


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[lvwoodside]

Ok I don't have a Mitsubishi so I not familiar with this part but there has to be a bearing on the pulley if it can be removed it can be replaced. If you can get it out there should be a number on it as most bearings are a standard size a 6003 is a6003 no matter who uses it the only thing that changes is the shields or seals (6003 SS or 6003 RS) just match what you have.I spent over 20 years in the auto parts industry ( independent custom and speed shops) and even if it's not in the book sometimes it can be fixed.


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[clmrt]

Yep, I do it with my Marauder a lot. Those are exposed bearings and easy to ID. This one has a shield on the front and I can't remember what the back looks like. In any case, I'll have an old one and a new one, and I intend to repair the old for a spare.

In fact, my tensioner also took a **** yesterday. That pulley is held on by a security bolt (star fitting and center post). Once I get that off, I'll rebuild it as well.

 

[KyleT]

I'm wondering if there is a alternative. Belt rib, diameter, bolt hole diameter and offset should be able to be matched. I'm sure a few mm difference in diameter won't cause issues. I used to swap stuff like this on my rovers to save a lot of expense.


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[Swank Force One]

Yep, I do it with my Marauder a lot. Those are exposed bearings and easy to ID. This one has a shield on the front and I can't remember what the back looks like. In any case, I'll have an old one and a new one, and I intend to repair the old for a spare.

In fact, my tensioner also took a **** yesterday. That pulley is held on by a security bolt (star fitting and center post). Once I get that off, I'll rebuild it as well.

My tensioner died last night, too. Replaced the two idlers, started the truck up, tensioner froze solid within 30 seconds of idling. Then a ruined evening running around trying to find either the bearing or the tensioner locally. Found both at same place, wasted an hour trying to get the old bearing out with no luck, slapped new tensioner on and called it good.

Now to figure out where it's STILL pissing oil from. $2k worth of repairs in the last 30 days. I hate this truck.

 

[clmrt]

Is it wet below the alternator on the steering rack?

 

[Swank Force One]

Yep.

Kinda thinking it's the pressure sender. It's had vc gaskets and a full 60k service in the last month. Was previously absolutely puking oil out the paasenger cam seal.