Mercedes Overland Building/Tuning

[mog]

Wish I could have Alcoa's, but there all 10 on 285mm. The backspacing can vary, from zero to 2"/6". So no luck finding any of those to fit my beast.

How are the Ironman's?, I'm shopping tires as well and Ironman's are certainly more affordable than many others.

I'm thinking I'll go with 12.25" wide, I can't think of a downside. If the tires stick out, I'll just bolt on some fender flares like I've done on my race cars before ?. Oh, and I still need to order the AMG lettering since I tweaked the horsepower/toque.

I like the Ironmans as they are surprisingly quiet given their tread pattern, and they are certainly a great price new. I have Toyo M320s as spares (the HUGE benefit of 22.5" rims, I went to my locate tire shop and asked for some used 385/65/22.5 for spares, and boom, 10 minutes later 85%ters for $150) and you can see, almost the same tread pattern
...............................Ironman.................................................................................Toyo


I added fender flares to my front as they stick out about 1.5". I was lucky that the fender extensions from Jeep TJs are a perfect match using the front on the forward part of my fender and the rear Jeep flares as the down part.


While that will not work for you, my point is to think outside the box if you have to go the fender flare route instead of using goofy 'universal' flares




Yep, AMG - Allrad Mammut Gerät (Four wheel drive, Mammoth, Device) is certainly factory-approved badging.

 

[RoamIt]

Success! I got the WIS/EPC working on a laptop. Nice to be able to bring up parts numbers and see schematic's. I'm going to crawl under there and take a closer look at the brake cylinder, it could be a hose for that matter. I also saw there is a rebuild kit for them as well. Depending on how things go I may rebuild them all. I will be pulling the drums off as well and looking at the shoes.

The truck was not gone through as I anticipated, so I need to set a base line of maintenance.

 

[Joe917]

Don't even think about rebuilding the rear spring cylinders. They are killers.

 

[RoamIt]

Mmmm.... Spoken like a man with experience. I'm just smart enough to listen.

 

[RoamIt]

Wheel update: I did have a conversation with Hutchinson about aluminum wheels, they said they would have to mill the whole wheel out of billet. $3-$4K each wheel minimum. . I knew they would not be cheap, but wow. When I respectively declined his $15K-$20K set of wheels, he said they were so expensive because I was only buying 5.

So, I pulled the trigger on the Wheels Now quote. It went up because they want to go with .625 center plate instead of .500. So, with delivery, it works out to $563.78 per wheel, 2-3wk lead time. I don't think that's a deal by any stretch for a steel wheel, but cheaper than Atkinson Vos, and several I talked to just said no. Considering current economics, logistics, supply chain, etc., I'm doing it and moving on.

 

[MogsAndDogs]

Wheel update: I did have a conversation with Hutchinson about aluminum wheels, they said they would have to mill the whole wheel out of billet. $3-$4K each wheel minimum. . I knew they would not be cheap, but wow. When I respectively declined his $15K-$20K set of wheels, he said they were so expensive because I was only buying 5.

So, I pulled the trigger on the Wheels Now quote. It went up because they want to go with .625 center plate instead of .500. So, with delivery, it works out to $563.78 per wheel, 2-3wk lead time. I don't think that's a deal by any stretch for a steel wheel, but cheaper than Atkinson Vos, and several I talked to just said no. Considering current economics, logistics, supply chain, etc., I'm doing it and moving on.

Well done. There are so many decisions to make. Glad this one is done.

 

[RoamIt]

OK, I need some input from you guys. Since I can't seem to find anyone to corroborate on the specifications of the super singles, and In an abundance of caution, I built the wheels out of wood and did a test fit.

Now the specs I have are 22.5"x12.5" with 120mm of backspace. I understood this would allow the flipping from front to back as needed while keeping the track lined up front to back.

So I put the wheel mock up on the rear, marked the edge of the rim on the ground with chalk. I did the same for the front.
This is not the same track:

 

[RoamIt]

Now on the rear, there is a second thickness of plate from the inner wheel, but maybe a .5"? Are people running spacers? Can only go so far before you run out of lug bolt space.

Adjusting for pushing the wheel out in the rear, means that when you flip it for the front, it may interfere with steering in the front?

 

[VerMonsterRV]

Now on the rear, there is a second thickness of plate from the inner wheel, but maybe a .5"? Are people running spacers? Can only go so far before you run out of lug bolt space.

Adjusting for pushing the wheel out in the rear, means that when you flip it for the front, it may interfere with steering in the front?

Although we have an LN2 our offset is 110mm. We do not run spacers, don't think our lug bolts would accommodate that on the front. Our track is not 100% correct, but I don't notice any issues.

 

[RoamIt]

Thanks Jon, I've been looking for pic's and it appears that some have the front track wider than the rears and others seemed more in line. But it's online, so angles of pic's can throw things off.

No matter what, I'm going to have to fabricate fender flares for the front. The stock wheels were 6.75" with a 264mm wide tire, I'm going with a 12.25" wide rim w/ a 395mm wide tire.

I've seen 110mm & 120mm offsets being talked about, but after measuring and taking into account 11.75" width is the common one used and I'm going with 12.25" width rims, I'm going for a 100mm offset. In the rear, there is enough lug bolt space for 2 wheels of course, so I'm going to cut out the center plate of one of the existing wheels and use it as a spacer for the rear.

Based on my calculations (with wood and chalk, Ha!) this should get me within a 4" misalignment front to back. Which is an improvement. I'll take pics and post the specs of the wheels I'm having built. Maybe it will help someone else one day.

 

[RoamIt]

Update on air leak on the brakes. There is a little tube coming out of the brake canister that is split. I wrapped it up to see if there were any other leaks. There is a little hole in the bottom of the canister, this is existing, maybe a pressure vent hole? Anyway, that is the source of the major air leak, it blows out of there in force.

I'll probably have to replace the whole thing.

 

[Wazak]

If there's air leaking g from the brake chamber there's a good chance that the diaphragm is perforated.

 

[Geo.Lander]

Thanks Jon, I've been looking for pic's and it appears that some have the front track wider than the rears and others seemed more in line. But it's online, so angles of pic's can throw things off.

No matter what, I'm going to have to fabricate fender flares for the front. The stock wheels were 6.75" with a 264mm wide tire, I'm going with a 12.25" wide rim w/ a 395mm wide tire.

I've seen 110mm & 120mm offsets being talked about, but after measuring and taking into account 11.75" width is the common one used and I'm going with 12.25" width rims, I'm going for a 100mm offset. In the rear, there is enough lug bolt space for 2 wheels of course, so I'm going to cut out the center plate of one of the existing wheels and use it as a spacer for the rear.

Based on my calculations (with wood and chalk, Ha!) this should get me within a 4" misalignment front to back. Which is an improvement. I'll take pics and post the specs of the wheels I'm having built. Maybe it will help someone else one day.

The front axle is always wider. Example for the single wheels I bought from Germany, 120mm offset means: On the front axel the total track width will be 20mm narrower and on the rear axle 20mm wider compared to 110mm offset. This is due to the fact, that the rims will be mounted on the rear axle the other way round.
At the end, the front track width will alway remain wider than the on the rear axle in any case, I went with 110mm offset rims..

 

[RoamIt]

Thanks for the feedback. Stock, the front track is wider than the rear. I was under the impression that when you switched to SS, that brought them more into alinement. I'm was just nervous about making an expensive mistake, so was looking for some definitive answer.

 

[RoamIt]

If there's air leaking g from the brake chamber there's a good chance that the diaphragm is perforated.

Yea, I noticed as I've been trying to track down the leak that is has actually gotten worse, it started out as smaller leak, now when you step on the brake, it really blows hard out of that little hole.

Could not find a part number on the EPS, everything but the air canister itself is listed. I'll be pulling it off in the next week and get a part number off it.