Mercedes Overland Building/Tuning

RoamIt

Well-known member
UPDATE: Money has changed hands, the deal is done unless something goes really sideways. Like the ship sinks, pirates, alien invasion, etc.

Another update is that I decided to have Mog-Tech (http://mog-tech.de/Leistungssteigerung/) do the engine tuning. so besides the injector pump pressure adjustment and the timing, they will pull the whole unit and bench flow it so they can also optimize the ESP injectors. So 300hp / 740ftlbs is where I should be power wise.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Minor update. There was a slight delay (covid case that prevented Mog-Tech from getting the truck) But they have it now and the hot-rodding of the engine has begun. I was informed by Terra-Exp we have 2 potential ship dates, 12/10 or 12/27.

Then there's the boat ride, port clearance, etc., etc.

So probably mid to late January before I fly down to Florida to pick up. It's going to be a long wait....
 
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terra-exp

Supporting Sponsor / Approved Vendor
I'm perilously close to importing a MB firetruck, I have some pic's & description, but I'll get first hand confirmation of condition/specs in a few weeks. As I prepare myself mentally for what could be the colossal mistake of thinking I can convert this monster into an overlander, I thought I would reach out and try to learn something.

Just to level set, I'm fairly handy with a wrench, welder, etc., having rebuilt a few cars over the years.

1.) Who in the U.S. is the goto for engine tuning? The truck in question is a '95 1224 with an OM421 turbo V6. It's 253hp/556ftlbs(not 100% sure on the torque) stock, but I've been told that 300hp is just a fuel pressure tuning(?)
2.) Of course, I'll need to convert to super singles, because I don't want my truck to be shunned by the other rigs because of it's little tires. Any recommendations of kits/rims, etc.?
3.) I would like a CTIS system, I've seen some aftermarket set ups. Anyone try them?
4.) Parts sources? I expect to have to order things from Europe. Any suggestions/sources would be most appreciated!
5.) Besides the factory manuals, are there any books/websites/YouTubes channels focused on these? (in English ;))
6.) Suspension- I'm thinking I may need some lifting blocks, new shocks-thinking remote reservoir, springs? I don't know if they are parabolic or perhaps add air bags to smooth the notorious cab-over ride?

Trying not to get too far into the weeds here, but the focus right now is to go through the truck and replace all rubber/seals/hoses, etc., anything that 26yrs would dry out. (This is a German firetruck, kept indoors, maintained, 60Kmiles)

And I'm sure I missed a lot, so feel free to chime in with any first hand experience you may have.

Or just talk me down from this idea....

Hello, this is Terra-exp.
We have imported several Mercedes Trucks so far.
The engine should be done in Europe. I would have two sources to go to. But the 1224 is not an OM421, since the OM421 was never made with a turbo. You either have the OM366LA inline 6, or the OM401LA V6, or the OM441 V6 (no turbo). My guess is the OM401LA, V6. 245HP and about 900Nm torque
We do have CTIS systems
We can get you all parts from Europe, even suspensions.
Contact me if you need help.
Martin
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Hello, this is Terra-exp.
We have imported several Mercedes Trucks so far.
The engine should be done in Europe. I would have two sources to go to. But the 1224 is not an OM421, since the OM421 was never made with a turbo. You either have the OM366LA inline 6, or the OM401LA V6, or the OM441 V6 (no turbo). My guess is the OM401LA, V6. 245HP and about 900Nm torque
We do have CTIS systems
We can get you all parts from Europe, even suspensions.
Contact me if you need help.
Martin

Martin, you already sold me a truck ;). (see earlier posts)
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Update: Truck was gone through and they replaced a ball joint they felt was loose, all other maintenance/tuning is completed. One of the owners of 4Wheel24 took it out for a spin on the 'test track' he uses to evaluate trucks and commented that he was very impressed with the new engine performance from Mog-Tech's tuning (y)

We did miss the window for getting the truck on the 12/27 ship and are looking at other bookings. The delay is not an issue for me as I still have my 911 restomod project in progress, so we may be looking at February (March?) before the MB1224 'AMG' finds it's way home.

One other issue I was discussing today with Martin was the wheels. They have 20" super singles they could install on the truck and he commented that the majority of the trucks that 4Wheel24 builds go out with 20" wheels. (this truck has 10 bolt 22.5" wheels stock)

But here on the forum, the consensus is 22.5" are far more common/easier to source internationally? I want to confirm that before I make any decision. Any actual, first hand experience to share?
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
Update: One of the owners of 4Wheel24 took it out for a spin on the 'test track' he uses to evaluate trucks and commented that he was very impressed with the new engine performance from Mog-Tech's tuning (y)
It is nice the uberautobanngeschwind tune is working out so well. My German friends (MB1120) recently posted on their blog that they got passed by a house in Utah :oops: :ROFLMAO:

passed-by-a-house.jpg
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Here on the forum, the consensus is 22.5" are far more common/easier to source internationally? I want to confirm that before I make any decision. Any actual, first hand experience to share?

When I was last in Africa, we ran trucks on 10:00 R20" tyres and 11R 22.5" tyres. In the normal width every day tyre, both were readily available. Super Singles were rare, and we never saw any on any trucks. The trucks we were using were all being changed over to the 11R 22.5" wheel/tyre combo as they are a lot easier to fit, the rim is lighter and they were the more common size.

20 years later (I now feel really old!), I had the same question. Our truck came on the small sandard 10:00 R20" wheel and tyre combo that was common in Oz in the 90's,and it looked daft on it's Pizza Cutter type tyres! The standard 10:00 R20" is still readily available here, however the large wide 20" 'off road' type tyre is not common at all, and if it can be found it's expensive! This made my decision for me in that the 11R 22.5" tyre is available in every town here and in New Zealand. I know it's also available in Europe easily too. The wider 22.5" Super Single is on most trailers, and on quite a few steer axles here and it too is widely available. 11R 22.5" are also available in a wide range of tread pattern from smooth steer axle config to agressive drive axle config for quarry and mine trucks (look up Double Coin RLB800 Drive Tyres).

I have settled on standard late 22.5" rims which are slightly wider than the early 22.5" rims, and a later 315/80 R22.5 drive axle tyre all round, whilst retaining the duals on the rear. I've had many a discussion on Overland Forums re duals and singles and been advised that I should do away with the duals and run singles on the rear, but I disagree. The whole of Australia and New Zealand run trucks on dirt roads with big loads on dual wheels without issue. We ran duals in Africa without issue, and they are lighter so it's easier to carry two spares. The footprint of our 6 x 315's is a slightly larger area than 4 x Super Singles too. I also like the thought that if I have a blow out on the rear axle, I still have 1 wheel on the side with the blowout holding the truck upright and in a controlable/drivable state. If a single wheel lets go, you are stopping there and then. My 8 wheels and tyres were bought for $2000aud, which gives me the two matching spares. Not only that, the rear hubs on most trucks are designed to have dual wheels on them. By running singles, you change the load points on those rear hubs.

10.00 R20.png 11R 22.5.png

This is just my take on it, but I do know that my single rim and tubeless tyre is light enough that Wifetec or myself will be able to change one on our own if the need arises, and I can be pretty confident that I could find a tyre that would fit my rims anywhere for under $400au if needed.
 

Joe917

Explorer
The 20" rim is a better off road option as you have a higher sidewall, so deflating gives a longer contact patch. 20" tires are not sold in South America. If South America is on the plans stay with the 22.5 rim. We had 315 80 22.5 all round, readily available worldwide but a bit narrow for sand and mud, I would go to a 365.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
The 20" rim is a better off road option as you have a higher sidewall, so deflating gives a longer contact patch. 20" tires are not sold in South America. If South America is on the plans stay with the 22.5 rim. We had 315 80 22.5 all round, readily available worldwide but a bit narrow for sand and mud, I would go to a 365.

That was what I understood from earlier discussions, S.A. is definitely on the agenda. As is Europe, Africa, etc.. I also understand about the sidewall and airing down on the 20" vs 22.5". I also get where Sitec is coming from on the duals vs SS's.

There are subtle nuances that come into play that my lack of experience turns into glaring questions.

1.) Given that 20" air down better vs 22.5", but you can still air down 22.5" some. The question becomes how often will I actually need to air down (yes, I will be in Baja sand, snow, mud conditions from time to time of course) and when I inevitably have to, will the less airing down capability of the 22.5" really be an issue? With the reminder that I have a 2 speed transfer case and 3 diff locks.

2.) Duals vs. Super Singles. I know this is quite the Pandora's box. I was absolutely going to go with super singles for all the obvious reasons, taller profile helping with higher highway speed, front and rear tracking the same, ease of airing down/up/no rubbing of sidewalls on aired down duels, no rocks caught in between tires. But then I've read about people running duals that rarely, if ever, have the stuck rock issue, then the tune I have also raised my redline, so comfortable speed on the tarmac is mitigated somewhat. In addition, while I'm in great shape now, when I saw the wheel/tire combined weight of a SS, I admit I was questioning the changing of tires as I get older since there's a good chance I'll be traveling solo. The tracking of front vs rear is another issue that I question is really an issue? or how much of one? (back to the locking diffs helping) Finally, the safety factor that Sitec mentioned is valid, duals would be safer and and all commercial trucks carrying much heavier loads off road than I ever will run duals.
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
The question becomes how often will I actually need to air down
The question might be how often are you going to take your 10 ton +/- 'house', down a track/trail/camino de tierra/etc were airing down is going to make the difference (for 'traction, not improved comfort)? If you are traveling with other similar sizes trucks, sure that is an option (as I have posted before, there is a reason elephants travel in herds), but solo travel and it is a whole different ball game. If you are stuck in a Jeep, Landie, F150, everyone to the rescue. You are stuck in a behemoth and most will be looking down at their photo so by accident they don't see you. Sure, sometimes smaller rig help might be forthcoming. There is an interesting video of six (6) Landies trying to recover a Mercedes LTW, but that is certainly the exception. You are more likely to be stuck in Manaus waiting on 20" tires being shipped in, then stuck by the difference in the footprint between 20 and 22.5s. Certainly, some hard-core guys will even bring 4 extra tires on long trips (1 or 2 mount, the rest unmounted), to be safe and perhaps just wearing them out due to distance. That is also a consideration. Are you going to get down to Rio Gallegos and just need tires due to normal wear? In general, the 22.5 seem to have more service life/distance. Ya, 20" rock, especially with beadlocks, but no matter how nice Manaus is, waiting there 3 weeks for tires is not (or perhaps I could be wrong). As always YMMV
 
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Joe917

Explorer
22.5"s air down too. We regularly aired down to 50psi from 95psi for washboard. There is some confusion over "super singles". Super singles are a super wide tire that replace duals for on road use. When the Super Singles name crops up in the overland world what we are talking about are singles replacing duals because we don't need the load carrying capacity of duals. Putting singles on an axle designed for duals will change the loading on the rear bearings, generally not an issue as campers are usually well under GAW. Best option is a single rear wheel axle (good luck with that one). Three diff locks is also rare but when you need it ....
Go with the 22.5" rim, 365 0r 395.
 

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