Modified Off Road Trailer Build 2017 (M.O.R.T)

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of gathering some information about a teardrop trailer build to pull behind my 2001 XJ. The problem that I am running into is that I do not want the trailer to be wider than my jeep. I tried to talk to someone about this but he said that for a 4.5 ft, (56 inch) wide frame the tires will stick out. I also told him that the spring centers would be 54 inches. I was told the hub face would stick out too far. I would like to run 31x10.5 15 BFG's on both trailer and Jeep. Can some light be shed on this for me. Thanks for the help.

Ray

 

[azscotts]

It depends on the build. You can certainly keep the wheel track in-line with your XJ, but you'll be looking at a custom frame with the outer walls doubling as wheel wells. You'll then have to contend with the wheel wells inside the cabin and how to best utilize your interior space.

I too was concerned about the track of my trailer behind my Tahoe; I opted to keep the trailer body just under my vehicle body width with the wheels and fenders tracking just outside my vehicle width but still less than my mirrors.

 

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

So after much reading, studying,learning and designing I am ready to build my Modified Off Road trailer (M.O.R.T for short)I have been following other threads like Sawtooth, Skersfan, and others to get an idea of just what I wanted.

So the platform will be built on
3X2X.120 56" wide and 8' long. Since it just myself camping or rolling out in it a full size platform will suffice.
Center beam and tongue will be 2.5 X 2.5 X 8 running center with 4 ft in and 4 ft out topped with a Lock and Roll coupler, P/N#501 and #506. Also with A frame bracing.
It will roll on 31X10.5X15 BFG Tires using stock XJ rims so both can be used interchangeably.
Built on a 3500# axle and springs, with 5 on 4.5 hubs
Main unit will be framed with 1X1 .83 (14 gauge) squared tubing (steel) with a height of 54". Skinning the camper I am looking at 1/4 plywood covered in Filon Siding, Insulation with 3/4" expanded polystyrene foam and then walled with 5.0mm luan. Floor will be 3/4 construction grade plywood with an underlay of rubber or 8 mil plastic. (not sure yet)

The kitchen at rear of unit will house:
Sink with hot and cold water.
Microwave (small unit)
Main electrical hub
Camp Chef stove oven combo fed by propane tank.
Dometic refrigerator CFX-65 (or comparable unit)
Cabinets and fold out counter space.
Water pump with tanks and hot water heater

Sleeping area
Full size mattress
32" TV
rooftop hvac
26"x 32" Doors
lighting

Since I am doing this build by myself it will take time and I sure a lot of fun. I am giving myself more than a year to perfect for a trip to 2018 Jeep Jamboree in Moab, Utah.
Any input will be greatly appreciated.

1/29/2017

Purchased the axle, springs and hubs from Northern Tool. Was able to get a hub on a deal from a damaged packaged.
I got the axle built.

First problem, but a minor one. The dust cap will not fit into center cap hole on rim. Dremel can handle that. Will have to pick up steel this week. Feels good to be on my way though.

 

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

So between yesterday and today I have been on the computer to find the spacers that i needed so i can complete the axle setup with tires. At least to be able to roll the trailer frame. I have read a lot of post about widening out the whole center of the rim to fit the hub, or by using extra wide spacers to be able to keep the dust cap.
So my decision was to go with a company called (Adaptit USA). Here they will make custom wheel spacers and adapters to fit your needs. So for my Northern Tool hubs P/N#572061, 1750# capacity, the center diameter spacer will be made to have an opening of 2 5/8th, and will be 2.00" thick. This will allow the hub dust cap to slide right through the center of the XJ rim. Once the jeep cap is removed the rim center will need to be opened up about an 8th and a half. This way I will not have to pop off the cap or remove the tire to lube the spindles.

 

[Lucky j]

Just a tought.

If I were you and probably like many others here, I would go with 3500 pounds hubs. Bearing will be better and beeffier, shaft would also be much stronger. Off road and bigger tire put lots of stress on huds and axles. And you do not want to be stuck out theire cause you wanted to save a couple box on axles!

 

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

Thank you for your input Lucky J. This is a 3500# setup. Each hub is 1750# X2=3500# The axle also itself is a 3500# axle.

 

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

This is a rendition of what's bouncing around in my head. Its just the skeleton. I never got into CAD so everything is locked in my head. I know what and how I want it. Putting it on paper gets challenging.

 

[dstock]

So between yesterday and today I have been on the computer to find the spacers that i needed so i can complete the axle setup with tires. At least to be able to roll the trailer frame. I have read a lot of post about widening out the whole center of the rim to fit the hub, or by using extra wide spacers to be able to keep the dust cap.
So my decision was to go with a company called (Adaptit USA). Here they will make custom wheel spacers and adapters to fit your needs. So for my Northern Tool hubs P/N#572061, 1750# capacity, the center diameter spacer will be made to have an opening of 2 9/16, and will be 1.75" thick. This will allow the hub dust cap to slide right through the center of the XJ rim. Once the jeep cap is removed the rim center will need to be opened up about an 8th and a half. This way I will not have to pop off the cap or remove the tire to lube the spindles.

Just a suggestion, why not just go with a 2 inch spacer and avoid having to open up the rim center? If you are going to use one spare for all then you will have to open up the spare rim as well. Also, if you go with ez-lube hubs you only need to fit the tip of a grease gun through to lube the spindles. Just a thought.

 

[Sb_Moto]

I would go 14 gauge 1" for the frame. Might as well save the weight, and I think it will be plenty strong. I went .120, and its overkill.

Couple things I would advise... Keep it simple!! The fewer angles and complexities the easier it is to build and trust me.. its a big project.

Try and source prefabbed doors. You can make your own, but the time and effort required to get them to seal correctly is not worth it. Just buy them.

If I had to do it again I wouldn't even mess with onboard water. Use a portable jug with water pump if needed.

I am sure I will think of more, but that is it for now.

 

[Lucky j]

Try and source prefabbed doors. You can make your own, but the time and effort required to get them to seal correctly is not worth it. Just buy them. .

Curious, where would you buy such doors and windows?

And BTW, I think something nice will come out of this tread, so I have just subscribe.

 

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

Thank you both for your input. In reference to the wheels and spacers. I am currently looking at 2" and 1.5" spacers. I did not want to go too big and risk any safety issues. The design aspect of the whole build is still in production. I agree with all the cuts and angles that sooner or later something will go out of whack. The door will be purchased. I found some aluminum teardrop style doors. In the drawing, that was the size that I was going with. I found some doors and windows on eBay plus also a company Teardroptrailerparts.com. As I said that this build is something that I am taking my time with. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it all.

 

[azscotts]

Thank you both for your input. In reference to the wheels and spacers. I am currently looking at 2" and 1.5" spacers. I did not want to go too big and risk any safety issues. The design aspect of the whole build is still in production. I agree with all the cuts and angles that sooner or later something will go out of whack. The door will be purchased. I found some aluminum teardrop style doors. In the drawing, that was the size that I was going with. I found some doors and windows on eBay plus also a company Teardroptrailerparts.com. As I said that this build is something that I am taking my time with. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it all.

That's who I am using for doors based on the feedback people here and TNTT have given.

 

[HuntfishcampXJRay]

So my weekend was quiet. Nothing much done. While waiting for spacers, went to the local 4X4 store to see if I can grab some that just might do the trick. I heard the Rugged Ridge spacers might just work. So I jumped at the opportunity to try this theory out. So it pretty much went like this. Purchase, happy happy joy joy drive home. :smiley_drive:Get home, pull out box, try on, major sad face. Although the spacers begin to slide on, they taper down. So I guess I will continue to wait for the customs.

 

[highlandercj-7]

Rugged ridge is a clone of spider trax. Neither fit over the trailer hub. I have the spider trax set, I ended up having them machined out to fit over the trailer hub. The remaining issue was they were not thick enough @ 1.25" thick, you need at least a 2" thick spacer to be able to clear the dust covers of the trailer hub and still get a center cap on the Jeep wheels assuming you would want to run any of the factory TJ alloys.

 

[RockyStones27]

Curious, where would you buy such doors and windows?

And BTW, I think something nice will come out of this tread, so I have just subscribe.

I bought my door and 3 windows from a totaled camper I found on Craigslist and paid $60 bucks for that. Deals are out there don't pay full retail!!

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