Molle Hole Dimensions for a Rigid Panel - Consensus Sought

[Branwell]

Hello,
I am in the process of getting a 3mm thick aluminium panel laser cut with slots to make a Molle compatible panel which I can mount on the inside of my vehicle, (inside a window frame). I have found an excellent manufacturer and my CAD drawing is almost complete, but I am a bit unsure about the sizes of the slots/holes to use and the spaces between these slots.
From one post which I have read
The slot size suggested is: 1.25” (32mm) high x 1.5” (38mm) long.
For the metal work around the slots is made up of rows 1.25” (32mm) high and columns 0.5” (12.7mm) wide metal between the slots.
Do these dimensions sound correct?
Having tried measuring sizes on screen and reading what the specified MOLLE fabric sizes are I am seeing differences, and I guess a lot of manufacturers of panels are not sharing this info.
Any help much appreciated.

 

[Alloy]

The PAL pattern is here.

Pouch Attachment Ladder System - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I don't know if Laser cutting will warp the alinumum but I know router cutting won't.

 

[Branwell]

Thanks for the link. I think i have it figured out now and will get the drawing sent off to the fabricator.

 

[Charles R]

You'll find that the basic MOLLE pattern that hard panels use is a 1.50" x 1.00" grid. Long dimension is the center-to-center width of the hole pattern, and the other is the vertical C to C.

I made my .090" aluminum panels with a hole size of 1.25" X 1.125". I felt this "extra" height was needed because that's the part of the pattern that the attachment web straps need to go through, and they get layers of material "stacked up" with the weaving process. But the center-to-center remains as above. It works, but it can be very tight to weave. I've since altered my Fusion360 CAD files to 1.300" X 1.180" to ease up the install, and help compensate for the attachments/pouch strapping tolerances. Some brands are pretty far off.

I had my panels laser cut, but I did not have the shop deburr or radius the holes. (because I knew it would carry a bunch of cost on labor) Deburring or rounding the edges is a pretty important, and VERY labor intensive task. The edges are very sharp as cut and will need attention. Deburring really helps prevent the metal from cutting your straps, and makes it easier when you try to weave the nylon webbing into your panel. I'll give you the heads up that I spent about 5 hours using a deburr tool with my two panels, and still kind of wish it had a better/smoother edge.

 

[Branwell]

Charles, many thanks for your detailed response and the evolution of the sizes you have used. What sort of width of material is between the 1.300x 1.180" holes?

Thanks again

John

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

What are you using for lacing material?

 

[Charles R]

My original hole size leaves .250" of material at the narrow points between rows. The new size leaves .200". I haven't made new panels yet, but I still think there's sufficient stiffness for my .090" thickness. You might be surprised to hear that whole panel is anchored with only the two bolts just above and to the front of that sensor with the orange cord around it. (cord holds a broken connector to a sensor) everything else is "freestanding" or has a little friction fit to keep from vibrating. Your 3mm thick material is significantly thicker at .118", so it'll be pretty stiff.

The lacing material I use so far has just been what's been attached to the bags and such I've used. So far, my favorite bag is this 'Propper' brand set. https://www.amazon.com/Propper-Assault-2-Pack-Coyote-Size/dp/B01BHV6AZE?ref_=ast_sto_dp
I've been able to buy several of these at surplus stores for about $26.00/set. (But it looks like Propper has now discontinued most of their bags)

A couple of my bags are used military, and they have a much stiffer set of straps built into them. I haven't had need to use separate strap sticks or other attachments yet.

One thing I bought that SHOULD have fit, but didn't, was a Vodoo brand version of this medical "tear away" bag... https://www.amazon.com/Orca-Tactica...&keywords=molle+medical&qid=1591234131&sr=8-7 The strap pattern was just flat out wrong and would not fit well enough to keep. I haven't tried this Amazon linked brand, but it looks exactly the same. So I'm not planning on buying one until I can verify fit.

For reference, what you're seeing here is my "dresser". All the bags on this wall hold a weeks worth of clothes for various weather conditions. The rear most tall bag holds toiletries and wipes. BTW, one other thing built into my panels... you can see small holes located in the "thick" part of the panel. Those are .250" square holes, that allow for carriage bolts to be used. The flashlight with it's recharging base at very top of this panel is held in with one of those bolts. These holes could also be used as part of a mounting setup.

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

What meant by lacing is what are you using for the verticals to lock the PALs webing to the panels.
Brands like Voodoo and Condor are Chinese knock offs.
Look at brands like HSGI or Tactical Taylor.

 

[Charles R]

Oh. The stuff I've used so far has horizontal nylon webbing to hold the straps back to the bags. Everything else is just weaving. The vertical straps basically go "outside" the panel, and woven under the horizontal nylon webbing. That's why the holes need to be a little bigger. The webbing and the hole size can sometimes make for a pretty tight fit.

I'll snap a pic. BRB

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

When I attach pouches to bags or vest I use Maxpedition TacTies. They have different lengths depending on size of pouch. It is supposed to be a tight fit or the pouches get floppy. Check out their bags too.

Hardware | Maxpedition

Proprietary Maxpedition hardware components, as well as a curated selection of replacement parts, are offered below for your convenience. TacTie Polymer Joining Clips and JUHL are design and utility patents pending in the USA and internationally.

www.maxpedition.com

I would think a thin piece of metal inserted vertical to capture the mole weave loops would be great for securing pounches to metal panels.

 

[Charles R]

 

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Yeah those are the snap ties.I see why you say it is tight. You are using tie around the plate and the mole. Top row of web should hold the tie middle point. Then lace back half of the tie through the next row continue same lacing till all rows are fastened. The outside of the tie threads through nothing.
That is a little different than what you would do mating a pouch to a bag where they both have molle. It becomes weaving then.

 

[Charles R]

Those snap ties are sewn into the top edge of the pouch. This pouch size only has one horizontal web, one inch below the top of the pouch. So there's no MOLLE webbing pinched between the pouch and the panel.

 

[javajoe79]

I would think grommets or some type of edge guard would be an easy addition rather than hours worth of deburring and adding radii to the edges.

 

[Alloy]

You'll find that the basic MOLLE pattern that hard panels use is a 1.50" x 1.00" grid. Long dimension is the center-to-center width of the hole pattern, and the other is the vertical C to C.

I made my .090" aluminum panels with a hole size of 1.25" X 1.125". I felt this "extra" height was needed because that's the part of the pattern that the attachment web straps need to go through, and they get layers of material "stacked up" with the weaving process. But the center-to-center remains as above. It works, but it can be very tight to weave. I've since altered my Fusion360 CAD files to 1.300" X 1.180" to ease up the install, and help compensate for the attachments/pouch strapping tolerances. Some brands are pretty far off.

I had my panels laser cut, but I did not have the shop deburr or radius the holes. (because I knew it would carry a bunch of cost on labor) Deburring or rounding the edges is a pretty important, and VERY labor intensive task. The edges are very sharp as cut and will need attention. Deburring really helps prevent the metal from cutting your straps, and makes it easier when you try to weave the nylon webbing into your panel. I'll give you the heads up that I spent about 5 hours using a deburr tool with my two panels, and still kind of wish it had a better/smoother edge.

5 hours seems kind of long for deburring. Were you using one of these?

Timberline NG8150 Noga Carbide Deburring Tool Set - S, Heavy Duty

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www.toolstoday.com

I've also used a burr in a die grinder/dremel but it may mark the surface of the material if it slips. Let the rotation of the burr pull itself along the edge of the material.

Weight of thicker material would be compensated for with the larger holes and the addition of more holes.