The factory premium sound speakers are 3 ohms (except the tweeters on Gen 2.5 sail panels, which are 4 ohms and have a ~14khz HPF anyway), running a 4 ohm aftermarket speaker is fine that's asking the amplifier for less current to drive them. It's easier on the amplifier.
But if you're using the factory amplifier and driving it with output from an aftermarket head unit that's the likely cause of your problem. The factory amp is looking for a balanced low voltage (~1Vrms) signal because that's what the factory head unit supplied and with an aftermarket head unit wired in you're either delivering a 6V DC offset and ~6-7Vrms balanced or you're supplying an unbalanced 2-6Vrms signal depending how it was wired in.
The best thing you can do is take the factory amp and throw it in the trash, along with any lower dash speaker you may have in there. The factory amp doesn't have a DC-DC power supply, its rails are the exact same offset ~0-12V that any aftermarket head unit uses so the minute you install an aftermarket head unit and aftermarket speakers, the relevance of the factory amp drops to zero. The power amp output devices - if you're curious - are TA8233H BTL units that pretty much lose their composure over 10W regardless of what impedance the load is, they are rated to operate at 2 ohms and can deliver 30W per channel into that impedance at 10%thd (yuck!)