Yeah what he said!!!!!!! :wings:
Mopar to offer the ATK 4.7-liter Stroker Motor
- Thread starter Beowulf
- Start date
Yeah what he said!!!!!!! :wings:
computeruser
Explorer
I would definitely be interested in one that was dealer installed and warrantied. The idea of dropping my Jeep off on a Monday and picking it up,with a new engine and ready to go, by the end of the week would be cool.
Root Moose
Expedition Leader
The only diesels we get/got in Canada are the KJ (discontinued I believe) and the WK.
thethinginthewoods
Adventurer
All this time and I didn't know that you had a stroker in your white chariot of fire! Did you actually buy the ATK engine, or did you build it with parts from other manufacturers?
This engine has been available from Hesco for about a decade. It seems they've finally done something about making it smog legal.
I've had a 'poor man's' version of it in my Scrambler for 12 years. Basically a 4.2L jeep engine bored out .060" with a 4.0L head and exhaust and Mopar Fuel injection. Long stroke, big bore.
By advancing the timing gears/chains 4 degrees it lowers the rpm's that the engine makes peak torque. Down to maybe 1200 rpm. It's an amazing tractor engine. It works as advertised pulling like crazy at 500 rpm. I've scuttled the auto idle increase feature somehow so I can pull very low rpms without the auto idle increase increasing the idle. I'm not sure what they're doing now with it, but the PCM is geared to deliver fuel for a 4.0L size combustion chamber and has a perpetual lean burn at idle (comes across as an occasional miss). Read on a DRB-2, the injectors are at +3 (the max) trying to put enough fuel in the CC.
I lost my speedo cable a few years ago, which also scuttled my speed sensor which advances the timing (giving you more power) so I have no top end now, power wise. That's fine, it's such a trail built slug, I don't need any HP, just that John Deere, gut thumping torque.
Here are the particulars on my rig. scroll down to engine:
Jefe's Scrambler, ROKHUGR as of 7-09
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1982 Jeep CJ-8, desert sand and Nutmeg, AGR power steering box and pump, MORE 1-1/2” forward steering box brackets, Chevy power discs front and Cadillac disc rear, removable 10 watt CB, Optima yellow top, Full Kayline Nutmeg soft top and full soft doors, windjammer, 1/2 doors and bikini top, custom soft cab top, custom rear tonnau cover, rear seat
ENGINE:
4.4L I-6 block and crank, with .060” overbore pistons and rings,
4.0L, High Output head with Mopar MPI fuel injection, Hesco adjustable fuel regulator with gage. Hesco H-264-14 cam (.470” lift) and Cloyes double timing gears and chains advanced 4 degrees, High Volume oil pump,
stock ‘95 XJ exhaust header, 2.5” aluminized tubing, cat and12” glasspack.
hand throttle, MORE engine mounts.
2-5/8” AutoMeter gauges (0-4K tach, oil, temp, Volt, Vacuum)
DRIVETRAIN:
NP-435 (6.69.3.34/1.66/1.00/8.26) Adapter by Advance
clocked Dana 300 w/ 5 gear TeraLow 4:1 gears, and Currie twin sticks, Woods drive shafts,
6 bolt SuperWinch hubs, u-bolt style u-joints, 130:1 crawl
Dana 44, 30 spline front, w/ARB, Warn 4330 ChroMoly shafts, ChroMoly steering-over rods with 1 ton TRE’s, Parts Mike steering-over knuckles, CTM U-joints, 4.88:1
Dana 60, 35 spline rear w/ARB, Mosier H.D. shafts, 4.88:1. 4XDoctor pig cages
SUSPENSION:
Springs-Over-Axle w/ 7 leaf Old Man Emu 4” lift YJ rear springs on front with spring reversal, and 7 leaf YJ, 4’” lift rear springs. (about a 9 “ lift) Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks. H.D. shackles. Extra long S.S. brake hoses.
OFF-ROAD OUTFITTING:
Fenders trimmed to clear 36-13.50-15 Super Swamper IROC’s on Rock Crawler 10” wheels, and 37-13.50-16 TLC ProComp XTerrains on 8” wheels
Extra wide rubber fender lips. Currie steering brace and welded/over boxed front frame horn, Radiator saver. Stubby 'rockhugger' front bumper, Ford Mutt recovery “D” rings. roll cage, Wrecking Ball Proof custom rocker panels, "Off-Your-Rocker" steel rear diamond plate quarter panels, 24 gal. steel tank and steel skid plate, Premier Power underhood welder (180 amp alternator), welding outfit, 4” AC grinder, Premier 20 lb. CO2 Power Tank. 12V high volume air compressor. Class III hidden reciever hitch/ pintel
Usual extra parts taken: regulator, hubs, spare T. case, frnt/rr yokes/ u-joints, complete rr driveshaft, main leaf with eyes, bag ‘o NBW’s, some metal plate, brackets, strap, angle. Enough tools. GPS.
RECOVERY EQUP: Warn #8274 Winch, 20’ and 30’ towstrap, tree saver, snatch block, 3 “D” rings, 20’ hardened chain with slip hooks, 4’ breaker bar, 2-ton come-along, 5’ High Lift Jack, 4 ton bottle jack, 4 ton sissor jack, Safety Seal tire repair kit. Clutch strap for re-mounting flats.
My wife has a 'winter car', a low mileage, 1999 Classic XJ that I'm going to upgrade with a 3" lift, an 8.8 Ford rr end with track loc, and put a Power lok in the front D-30 HP. don't need no stinkin' full lockers on snow and ice. This is our 3rd XJ.
I really think with the right prepping, an XJ could be a great, low bucks, expedition rig.
regards, as always, jefe
I've had a 'poor man's' version of it in my Scrambler for 12 years. Basically a 4.2L jeep engine bored out .060" with a 4.0L head and exhaust and Mopar Fuel injection. Long stroke, big bore.
By advancing the timing gears/chains 4 degrees it lowers the rpm's that the engine makes peak torque. Down to maybe 1200 rpm. It's an amazing tractor engine. It works as advertised pulling like crazy at 500 rpm. I've scuttled the auto idle increase feature somehow so I can pull very low rpms without the auto idle increase increasing the idle. I'm not sure what they're doing now with it, but the PCM is geared to deliver fuel for a 4.0L size combustion chamber and has a perpetual lean burn at idle (comes across as an occasional miss). Read on a DRB-2, the injectors are at +3 (the max) trying to put enough fuel in the CC.
I lost my speedo cable a few years ago, which also scuttled my speed sensor which advances the timing (giving you more power) so I have no top end now, power wise. That's fine, it's such a trail built slug, I don't need any HP, just that John Deere, gut thumping torque.
Here are the particulars on my rig. scroll down to engine:
Jefe's Scrambler, ROKHUGR as of 7-09
1982 Jeep CJ-8, desert sand and Nutmeg, AGR power steering box and pump, MORE 1-1/2” forward steering box brackets, Chevy power discs front and Cadillac disc rear, removable 10 watt CB, Optima yellow top, Full Kayline Nutmeg soft top and full soft doors, windjammer, 1/2 doors and bikini top, custom soft cab top, custom rear tonnau cover, rear seat
ENGINE:
4.4L I-6 block and crank, with .060” overbore pistons and rings,
4.0L, High Output head with Mopar MPI fuel injection, Hesco adjustable fuel regulator with gage. Hesco H-264-14 cam (.470” lift) and Cloyes double timing gears and chains advanced 4 degrees, High Volume oil pump,
stock ‘95 XJ exhaust header, 2.5” aluminized tubing, cat and12” glasspack.
hand throttle, MORE engine mounts.
2-5/8” AutoMeter gauges (0-4K tach, oil, temp, Volt, Vacuum)
DRIVETRAIN:
NP-435 (6.69.3.34/1.66/1.00/8.26) Adapter by Advance
clocked Dana 300 w/ 5 gear TeraLow 4:1 gears, and Currie twin sticks, Woods drive shafts,
6 bolt SuperWinch hubs, u-bolt style u-joints, 130:1 crawl
Dana 44, 30 spline front, w/ARB, Warn 4330 ChroMoly shafts, ChroMoly steering-over rods with 1 ton TRE’s, Parts Mike steering-over knuckles, CTM U-joints, 4.88:1
Dana 60, 35 spline rear w/ARB, Mosier H.D. shafts, 4.88:1. 4XDoctor pig cages
SUSPENSION:
Springs-Over-Axle w/ 7 leaf Old Man Emu 4” lift YJ rear springs on front with spring reversal, and 7 leaf YJ, 4’” lift rear springs. (about a 9 “ lift) Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks. H.D. shackles. Extra long S.S. brake hoses.
OFF-ROAD OUTFITTING:
Fenders trimmed to clear 36-13.50-15 Super Swamper IROC’s on Rock Crawler 10” wheels, and 37-13.50-16 TLC ProComp XTerrains on 8” wheels
Extra wide rubber fender lips. Currie steering brace and welded/over boxed front frame horn, Radiator saver. Stubby 'rockhugger' front bumper, Ford Mutt recovery “D” rings. roll cage, Wrecking Ball Proof custom rocker panels, "Off-Your-Rocker" steel rear diamond plate quarter panels, 24 gal. steel tank and steel skid plate, Premier Power underhood welder (180 amp alternator), welding outfit, 4” AC grinder, Premier 20 lb. CO2 Power Tank. 12V high volume air compressor. Class III hidden reciever hitch/ pintel
Usual extra parts taken: regulator, hubs, spare T. case, frnt/rr yokes/ u-joints, complete rr driveshaft, main leaf with eyes, bag ‘o NBW’s, some metal plate, brackets, strap, angle. Enough tools. GPS.
RECOVERY EQUP: Warn #8274 Winch, 20’ and 30’ towstrap, tree saver, snatch block, 3 “D” rings, 20’ hardened chain with slip hooks, 4’ breaker bar, 2-ton come-along, 5’ High Lift Jack, 4 ton bottle jack, 4 ton sissor jack, Safety Seal tire repair kit. Clutch strap for re-mounting flats.
My wife has a 'winter car', a low mileage, 1999 Classic XJ that I'm going to upgrade with a 3" lift, an 8.8 Ford rr end with track loc, and put a Power lok in the front D-30 HP. don't need no stinkin' full lockers on snow and ice. This is our 3rd XJ.
I really think with the right prepping, an XJ could be a great, low bucks, expedition rig.
regards, as always, jefe
IXNAYXJ
Adventurer
I was at EJS when MOPAR released this engine and got to drive one of their rigs with the stroker in it.
-----Matt-----
robert j. yates
Explorer
Cool post.
I have a 4.0 (2001 long block) with the same exact cam, timing gears and 4* advance and similar exhaust along with some other stuff (roller rocker kit and Hesco Al head). I'm personally pretty happy with my build and in particular, with the cam. I needed some extra grunt for towing my AT Horizon and it does deliver. I am now a big proponant of cam swaps for the 4.0 as the most cost effective way to add power. CAI's and the like don't add "real" power in my opinion and once you factor in cost of buying a CAI, you are already halfway there to a new cam.
I probably should have stroked it when we had it apart but that was 3 years ago and I was still somewhat leary on strokers. There is alot more information out there now so its pretty easy to get educated and get a decent running stoker.
24HOURSOFNEVADA
Expedition Leader
I wonder what the compression will be and if they'll handle any pre-detonation issues.
Driver-Navigator
Explorer
I've thought about the 4.7 stroker to replace the stock 4L in my TJ someday. I can't imagine that the mileage would be much worse than it is now, which is already wretched.
My shop has good things to say about the engine. The trick, they say, is making sure all the rest of the driveline is up to the extra power. I think most stock TJs aren't.
I'll be really surprised if Jeep/Mopar really ends up selling them.
I'd prefer a good diesel option with good grunt and great mileage, but they don't seem too interested in that either. The diesel Liberty sure didn't last long, even with its promised 500-mile range. (I'd love anywhere remotely near that range in my TJ!!!!!)
My shop has good things to say about the engine. The trick, they say, is making sure all the rest of the driveline is up to the extra power. I think most stock TJs aren't.
I'll be really surprised if Jeep/Mopar really ends up selling them.
I'd prefer a good diesel option with good grunt and great mileage, but they don't seem too interested in that either. The diesel Liberty sure didn't last long, even with its promised 500-mile range. (I'd love anywhere remotely near that range in my TJ!!!!!)
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
Do you think a 4.7 stroker (Mopar or homebrew) would be too much for a dana 35 with 165,000 miles on it? Tire size has never been bigger than 30 inches and I've been gentle on it so far, so it is just a matter of normal wear and tear to the axle over the course of 11 years now and the high mileage. Maybe this will give me an excuse to get a dana 44.....:ylsmoke:
Driver-Navigator
Explorer
It won't just be the Dana 35 at the rear that would be the issue, but other components as well. I think a lot depends on your driving style and how you use it, but you'd want whoever was going to do the conversion make recommendations based on your current components.
I haven't gone into that much detail with my shop yet, so I can't share my experience there. I have a 35 at the back and that upgrade is long overdue. Too bad this stuff costs money.
I haven't gone into that much detail with my shop yet, so I can't share my experience there. I have a 35 at the back and that upgrade is long overdue. Too bad this stuff costs money.