Most capable, dependable, affordable truck camper truck?

BritKLR

Kapitis Indagatoris
For plain old economy and reliability I've got to add the 90's Chevy/GMC K2500-k3500 trucks. With the solid 5.7 V8, 4L80E Auto trans, full floater rear ends and parts availability everywhere, these can be had very cheap, average 12-16 mph and run forever. A weekend doesn't hardly go by that someone isn't selling "grandpas" old Chevy/GMC that they inherited and since it doesn't have Bluetooth, sat radio, backup camera, heated seats, maybe manual windows or the dreaded manual transmission, their selling the great old trucks for 3-5 k with low miles on it!
Add air bags, do all the routine maintenance and good tires and you have a setup that get you almost any where, for a decent price and great reliability. Good luck!
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Darwin

Explorer
If you are looking at fords you can pick up a newer gas truck, even cheaper if it's a regular cab. Personally I can't stand crew cab trucks, even more so south of the border. They make driving around especially small market towns a pain in the ass. Unless you have a large family etc. get the regular cab, benefits outweigh the drawbacks. If you use the crew cab for storage, you are taking too much stuff. The nimbleness of the regular cab along with the tighter turning radius is a huge plus.

I don't care for the powerstroke of any year, but I am bias and find the straight six cylinder Cummins to be far superior, not to mention the god awful pricing of a 7.3.

Even better find a cab chassis regular cab and put a flat bed on it. That opens up a ton of storage.
 

deserteagle56

Adventurer
I'd try to find a Dodge/Cummins like the Jefe drives for ultimate dependability and toughness. Especially with the 6 speed manual tranny. Mine's a dually, 2004 model year, that I found with only 55,000 miles on it. It will probably last me the rest of my life.
 

panema

Member
2005-2010 Super Duty with the V10. 2005+ gets your coil sprung front end with larger brakes and better turning radius than the 1999-2004. V10 is reliable, yet thirsty. Find the least rusty and lowest mileage, well-taken-care-of example and enjoy.

Use all of the money you saved not buying a diesel to get a better camper and to pay for your fuel and adventures. I wouldn't consider a 6.4 diesel from 2008-2010, period. I would only consider a 6.0 from 2005-2007 if it was proven to be bulletproofed by a competent shop (and even then I would still be wary) or I was doing the work myself.

Thanks so much for the input, really appreciate it and will continue to dive deeper into your recommendations. Cheers.
 

panema

Member
If you can find a used FWC camper, they are light and open up 1/2 ton options.

If 3/4T+ I'd get a std cab, long bed F250/350 with 6.2 gas or V10....gets the newest and/or lowest mileage one you can find.
mhm mhm



You want the long bed to get a bigger camper, and if it's just you in the truck the smallest cab will keep overall length down which will help you everywhere. I'd lean towards just the extended cab if you want quick storage access, the size difference between the crew and extended cabs will be very noticeable on the trail. You want a 07-14 2500 or 3500. Don't even look at half tons. My mistake on the trans, its the 6L90 in the HD trucks. The full swing out extended cab doors in that gen Chevy are great, I'd argue it would be easier to get gear in/out than a crew cab. Like others have said, it won't be the fastest but it will get you there without any issues and any mom and pop Cletus and Harry shop can work on and gets parts for a gas Chevy if you need.

Can't wait to meet Cletus and Harry... ; )

Thanks for the input. Your thoughts on the extended cab vs the crew cab are well received. Thank you.
 

panema

Member
When you are talking about durability difference between F250 and F350, you can also argue that Stewart Stevenson M1078 is even more durable with even more payload capacity. What are you really comparing the durability to? Is it your past experience? Is it some one else's experience, not a story but actual experience.

What kind of research are you doing to accurately reflect the durability for a vehicle? If you are looking at message boards, then you are reading a fiction novel written purely for entertainment. If you are actually looking at the manufacturer's specification and un-biased companies that give you actual numerical values on the strength, and durability of the part based on actual tests in a controlled environment then you are on the right track.

Are you comparing an F250 built in 1970 to a F250 built in 2010?

You can find a Raptor for under $20,000 online. Supercharged 5.4 Raptors are more difficult to come by and I would avoid them but any 6.2L Raptor will be solid. Why are you worried about the payload capacity? How much are you realistically expecting to carry in the back of the truck and do you think your driving will change when you have a 1-2k camper in your bed? Ford SVT division builds vehicles to a higher quality level than any run of the mill truck. I am a GM guy, have 3 in my driveway, however I have owned two Fords both of which were SVTs and I will be buying the first Raptor I see under $10k. It's a unique truck that will end up costing you much less in the long run and will be more enjoyable to drive.

I built a 2000 Suburban 1500 with 37" tires to be my reliable FAR FAR FAR off the beaten path off-road adventure machine for my family. There is no aftermarket support for them because they are not fun or sexy like many other money pit trucks. I wanted to find out why, no one gave me an actual answer. 5 years and 180,000 miles later I still put 100-300 off-road miles on my truck every week, it's still my daily driver and it still has not yet left me stranded on the trail.

Moral of this is that it's fun and entertaining to pick other people's highly biased brains, however it is your truck, your adventure, you have to write your story. Many will discourage you from a powerstroke, but if you have set your mind on one go for it, get it, and adventure away with it. It's way more fun to be broken down in a truck you love than to look at the truck you don't like sitting in your driveway.

When I refer to durability, I am mainly thinking of the engine. The difference btw the 250 and the 350 just for payload capacity. I'm not on this forum looking to just hear stories, but take advice, albeit from strangers, so I'm taking it all with a grain of salt but appreciate any input from anyone with more experience than I have - which is a lot of you out there.

Everyone is a little biased, thats OK. In terms of finding companies that actually provide unbiased reports based on actual tests... I don't know of any and haven't come across any of these companies and reports just yet. If you want to steer me in that direction I'd love to take a look. If there were clear winners from tests like that, my guess is folks in this community would be able to surface that info pretty quickly.

I am not comparing F250 from 1970 with an F250 from 2010. I'm merely looking for a opinions on what $10-$15k truck (any make or model or year) is considered dependable, capable, and can generally be found at a great value. I don't have my mind set on any one particular model or engine (I probably should not have even mentioned power stroke in my initial post but was just trying to give an example to start the conversation.

I wouldn't say I'm worried about payload capacity but (some) truck campers get heavy real quick. Everyones got different requirements, I'm interested in having a wet bath and 4 season capability thats really my only criteria and those criteria seem to drive camper wet weight right up to that dividing line between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks (with some exceptions of course). From what I understand a Raptor would not be best suited for this job, though I could be wrong and I'm open to push back there.
 

panema

Member
If you can find a used FWC camper, they are light and open up 1/2 ton options.

If 3/4T+ I'd get a std cab, long bed F250/350 with 6.2 gas or V10....gets the newest and/or lowest mileage one you can find.

Love the FWC line up. I'm super torn between pop up and hard side. Strong argument for the pop up for a lot of obvious reasons. For some reason I percieve the hard side campers to be more live-able long term for some reason - but I may need to open up on this and reconsider that bias. Thanks !
 

nickw

Adventurer
When I refer to durability, I am mainly thinking of the engine. The difference btw the 250 and the 350 just for payload capacity. I'm not on this forum looking to just hear stories, but take advice, albeit from strangers, so I'm taking it all with a grain of salt but appreciate any input from anyone with more experience than I have - which is a lot of you out there.

Everyone is a little biased, thats OK. In terms of finding companies that actually provide unbiased reports based on actual tests... I don't know of any and haven't come across any of these companies and reports just yet. If you want to steer me in that direction I'd love to take a look. If there were clear winners from tests like that, my guess is folks in this community would be able to surface that info pretty quickly.

I am not comparing F250 from 1970 with an F250 from 2010. I'm merely looking for a opinions on what $10-$15k truck (any make or model or year) is considered dependable, capable, and can generally be found at a great value. I don't have my mind set on any one particular model or engine (I probably should not have even mentioned power stroke in my initial post but was just trying to give an example to start the conversation.

I wouldn't say I'm worried about payload capacity but (some) truck campers get heavy real quick. Everyones got different requirements, I'm interested in having a wet bath and 4 season capability thats really my only criteria and those criteria seem to drive camper wet weight right up to that dividing line between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks (with some exceptions of course). From what I understand a Raptor would not be best suited for this job, though I could be wrong and I'm open to push back there.
Raptors have ridiculously low payload....you'd be hard fought to even fit the lightest of pop up campers on one. Sounds like you are in the 3/4T + camp.....
 

nickw

Adventurer
Love the FWC line up. I'm super torn between pop up and hard side. Strong argument for the pop up for a lot of obvious reasons. For some reason I percieve the hard side campers to be more live-able long term for some reason - but I may need to open up on this and reconsider that bias. Thanks !
Some people do it full time, several videos on youtube. Even if you want a full size HD truck, they are nice since they are a bit more aero and efficient. They are not cheap and are hard to find used in good condition though.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
I'm interested in having a wet bath and 4 season capability thats really my only criteria and those criteria seem to drive camper wet weight right up to that dividing line between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks (with some exceptions of course). From what I understand a Raptor would not be best suited for this job, though I could be wrong and I'm open to push back there.

Wet baths do add alot of weight, if you are looking at a hard sided camper 1/2 tons including the Raptor should be out of the question if you plan on putting the truck in 4x4 LOW to get through an obstacle. 3/4 or 1 ton would be much better suited for the task. Also you will be beefing up suspension with either stiffer springs or add-a-leaf to compensate for the added weight.


Good reference and starting point.

Sounds like you will be more limited by the camper itself than the truck. I would search out a camper that you like, figure out which trucks meet the payload criteria for your camper and buy the first one that meets most of what you are looking for.
 

panema

Member
Wet baths do add alot of weight, if you are looking at a hard sided camper 1/2 tons including the Raptor should be out of the question if you plan on putting the truck in 4x4 LOW to get through an obstacle. 3/4 or 1 ton would be much better suited for the task. Also you will be beefing up suspension with either stiffer springs or add-a-leaf to compensate for the added weight.


Good reference and starting point.

Sounds like you will be more limited by the camper itself than the truck. I would search out a camper that you like, figure out which trucks meet the payload criteria for your camper and buy the first one that meets most of what you are looking for.

You bet! I've been through that list a few times and it has been super helpful. Thanks for reminding me and going to go through it again right now and interesting point to potentially start with the camper, or at least make the decision for both in tandem instead of separating them out - noted. It does seem the pickings are slim for wet bath hard sided campers (make sense, lot of stuff and a lot of tankage) but will revisit that list and keep honing things in. Thank you!
 

wild1

Adventurer
Did you


I just spent the last 2 hours perusing 1999-2003 F-350s and definitely feel like there is a lot of merit this set up.

Did you do the build on this or did you buy the truck / camper combo as is?

The crew cab option and removing the rear seats could yield some valuable extra storage which I’m interested in. Thanks for your input!
I bought it in 2004 with 9000 miles on it. I did the suspension and some of the external add ons. The basic truck,camper and service box were all done at the time of original purchase. This was a v-10 and it ran flawlessly. Getting a truck with a service body is a game changer,amazing amount of dry secure storage.
 

Adventurous

Explorer
Are there any true, 4 season campers that wouldn't exceed the payload capacity of a 3/4 ton? You might be pushing yourself into a 1 ton truck if you need a 4 season. Northern Lites advertise themselves as being the lightest on the market, yet theirs are all a little north of 2,300 lbs.

We lived in our Lance this past winter in temps down to about 0 degrees and it wasn't the most comfortable. The tanks have heater vents going to them, but they still iced up even with a 75/25 mix of RV antifreeze. 3 season campers just aren't built to survive winter unless you plan on chewing through propane.
 

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