Most popular stove's used in Overlanding

[Roger M.]

The newer diesel stoves are getting pretty small:

http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=53

... but admittedly there is additional infrastructure involved with fuel delivery and after-burn exhaust. In order to maintain the cleanliness you referenced, you definitely have to route the exhaust away from your cooking area.

Such routing is easy in a permanent installation such as in an Earthroamer type vehicle, less so in a temporary set up.

Although it would be possible to integrate such a system as Al is proposing with diesel ... it would definitely require some creative thinking that I, admittedly ... haven't yet done!

 

[kai38]

I use a 2 burner stainless steel stove (Can't remember brand) & a Jet Boil for mornings when I just need hot water for coffee, it's easier to set up & put away then the 2 burner.
Even though it uses 2 different types of fuel canisters it's a good set up.

 

[Tools for Adventure]

As mentioned here, I think flexibility and intended use is key. A larger stove for group cooking and at least one small stove for smaller use (boiling water etc). Weight and bulk is a big issue for me so I'd rather spend more for a more something compact. The Snow Peak Lite Max Titanium Stove is impossibly small and light. Yes it is unstable and intended for backpacking but is a great back up stove that takes up virtually no space or weight. Parts availability and service matters to me as well. I've had this Optimus Multi-Fuel stove for about 20+ years now. The model I have is now called Polaris. It'll run on anything; white gas, gasoline, jet fuel, diesel, etc. I've had it rebuilt once and the customer service was incredible. They rebuilt it and send me a new fuel bottle, all for free, years after any warranty had expired.

I bought a Snow Peak dual burner last year but sold it after a few uses. It's a great stove but due to the BTU output you'll go through canisters like crazy. I replaced it with a 22" Partner Stove and an aluminum propane tank. The Partner stove is bomb proof. The aluminum propane tanks are so much lighter than the steel ones. I prefer the slim 6lbs version as pictured below. In fact, I like them so much that I decided to carry them in my store. I am now a reseller of Partner Stoves, Worthington Aluminum Propane Cylinders as well as SOTO products. You can check them out on the website for my company Tools for Adventure.

 

[toyotech]

Aluminum propane tanks require test or replacing after x amount of years ?


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[Tools for Adventure]

Great question. I will find out the answer from Worthington. My personal guess is that all propane tanks regardless of material are required to conform to the same industry regulations and requirements as well as DOT specifications. Aluminum doesn't corrode while steel does so I imagine that aluminum cylinders last a lot longer than steel ones. The only downside to aluminum cylinders that I am aware of is that they are more expensive.

Aluminum propane tanks require test or replacing after x amount of years ?


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[Robert Bills]

. . . I imagine that aluminum cylinders last a lot longer than steel ones. The only downside to aluminum cylinders that I am aware of is that they are more expensive.

Unfortunately about 4X more expensive. I just purchased a Worthington 11# capacity steel propane cylinder. Aluminum would have been very cool, but the keeper of the budget had other ideas.

 

[Tools for Adventure]

Yes, unfortunately they are a lot more expensive as is the case with most corrosion resistant and lightweight metals (as a raw material aluminum is about 3x the cost of steel). That said, The weight reduction is about 40% for aluminum over steel.

I can certainly relate to budget constraints but I would urge any one on a budget and in the market for a stove to take frequency of use, amount of use as well as longevity into account when looking at price. For example, a box of 12 single use 4oz canisters is $60, the same as you paid for your #11 cylinder so unless you're backpacking, the single use cartridges are very un-economical.

When propane tanks reach 12 years of age (manufacturing date should be on the cylinder) they should no longer be filled according to law. After that it is possible to get the tank inspected and re-qualified for another 5 years of use, if approved and in good condition. I can only assume that since aluminum canisters are corrosion resistant it will be easier to get them re-approved for long term use. This should also be considered when storing the tanks outside.

Unfortunately about 4X more expensive. I just purchased a Worthington 11# capacity steel propane cylinder. Aluminum would have been very cool, but the keeper of the budget had other ideas.

 

[tienckb]

Iwatani butane stove 35FW. Powerhouse 15,000 BTU and works like a champ at 10k+ feet altitude.


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2002 LX470 expo ready
2008 Ford E350 EB V10 4x4 Sportsmobile PH top
Custom off road trailer

 

[Kevin108]

I'm running a 1965 Coleman 425. Simple to clean, simple to fix, in a pinch, the Coleman fuel can be used in the vehicle. I carry a spare generator just in case and I have a single-burner butane for backup.

 

[toyotech]

It's easier to swap out a steel tank once it's no longer legal to fill. Only way I would pony up to the aluminum tank would be if it can be used for 12 years or longer.


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[Tools for Adventure]

But it wouldn't be cheaper.

It's easier to swap out a steel tank once it's no longer legal to fill.


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[Scoutn79]

Depending on a variety of factors we use 1 of three.
A newer Coleman 2 burner propane stove, flimsy but has lasted for many years and lots of trail miles. Only like the propane for how quick it is to get a cooking flame.
A 1980 Coleman 413G dual burner, stout and works well but bigger than I really need.
A MSR Firefly for solo trips, compact, tough, burns just about any flammable liquid, will go from a controlled simmer to a full jet engine, fairly wide base and stable. Always stays in the truck with a small cook kit.

Darrell

 

[Roger M.]

Re: Propane tanks ... I don't put too much "weight" into the expensive aluminum (or fiberglass) propane tanks when it comes to saving a few pounds, especially with an overlanding vehicle (or trailer) that has a more substantial weight carrying capacity.

The reason for that is, relative to the heavy weight of the actual propane contained within, and the rather massive increase in cost of the exotic tank, I can't convince myself that it's actually worth 4 times the cost of a steel propane tank.

Aluminium and fiberglass propane tanks are definitely uber-cool in terms of fulfilling ones unbridled gear lust, but I personally see the money best spent elsewhere ... and continue to use inexpensive steel propane tanks.

 

[Robert Bills]

It's easier to swap out a steel tank once it's no longer legal to fill.

But it wouldn't be cheaper.

Actually, swapping out a steel tank is easier and cheaper if one is referring to the ubiquitous 20# "BBQ tank." For those, all one need do is go to the closest convenience store and swap out the old one for a pre-filled new one. The cost is the difference between the inflated cost of propane in the pre-filled exchange tank and the cost of refilling an empty 20# tank at the local propane supplier. [This isn't cheating - Blue Rhino and similar companies don't care if one returns an "expired" tank so long as it is in good condition, and one is free to refill the "new" tank at the place of one's choosing.]

As far as the other sizes are concerned, new Worthington 5# tanks cost $48 at CampingWorld.com and new Worthington 11# tanks are $57 at HomeDepot.com. Compare that with $199 for a Worthington 6# aluminum tank at toolsforadventure.com ($149 at vintagetrailersupply.com).

Not only is the cost 3-4 times more for an aluminum tank, it only saves about 4# in weight in the 5-6# capacity range, not enough to be concerned about for vehicle-based overlanding.

As I said before, aluminum propane cylinders definitely have that cool factor, and transcend ordinary camping gear and become what anglophiles and the pretentious like to refer to as "kit," but they don't survive the accountant's pencil in a cost/benefit analysis for my intended use.

I am looking forward to many happy years with my Partner Steel stove and Quikfire propane campfire with my new Worthington 11# steel propane cylinder.
:ylsmoke:


FYI - Only DOT-rated propane cylinders are required to be re-certified after 12 years or use the Type 1 Overflow Prevention Device ((OPD) valve. I have an 11# ASME-rated Manchester horizontal propane cylinder mounted to my Bantam trailer that was manufactured over 25 years ago and is still being refilled on a regular basis without any objection or concern at the propane dealer.

 

[Tools for Adventure]

Great info, thanks! You certainly know more about propane tanks than I do.

I'm working on getting better pricing from Worthington. When you're a small start up you don't get any breaks or concessions as a reseller which results in razor thin or no margins, particularly for high quality, domestically manufactured products. One might wonder why I bother carrying a product when I barely make any margin on it? Because some products are worth endorsing regardless of profitability. If I was looking at my business purely as a profit venture, I wouldn't be selling Partner stoves or Worthington cylinders.

Weight being of concern entirely depends on how light (or heavy) you travel. I don't go car camping in a Land-yacht with a trailer. Permanently mounting the tank to your trailer is a whole different ballgame than if you're going to load/unload and carry it around. I have very limited space in the back of my D90 so I have to be very selective about what I bring. More importantly, I prefer to travel lightly. Due to these constrains I follow the "less but better" approach when it comes to gear. I buy less gear but spend more on the gear that I very carefully select. So for me personally, every pound in weight savings matters to me because I have different constraints than you do. I like these constraints because I think that people in general have a tendency to fill up all the room they have. The more room you have, the more stuff you bring.

Actually, swapping out a steel tank is easier and cheaper if one is referring to the ubiquitous 20# "BBQ tank." For those, all one need do is go to the closest convenience store and swap out the old one for a pre-filled new one. The cost is the difference between the inflated cost of propane in the pre-filled exchange tank and the cost of refilling an empty 20# tank at the local propane supplier. [This isn't cheating - Blue Rhino and similar companies don't care if one returns an "expired" tank so long as it is in good condition, and one is free to refill the "new" tank at the place of one's choosing.]

As far as the other sizes are concerned, new Worthington 5# tanks cost $48 at CampingWorld.com and new Worthington 11# tanks are $57 at HomeDepot.com. Compare that with $199 for a Worthington 6# aluminum tank at toolsforadventure.com ($149 at vintagetrailersupply.com).

Not only is the cost 3-4 times more for an aluminum tank, it only saves about 4# in weight in the 5-6# capacity range, not enough to be concerned about for vehicle-based overlanding.

As I said before, aluminum propane cylinders definitely have that cool factor, and transcend ordinary camping gear and become what anglophiles and the pretentious like to refer to as "kit," but they don't survive the accountant's pencil in a cost/benefit analysis for my intended use.

I am looking forward to many happy years with my Partner Steel stove and Quikfire propane campfire with my new Worthington 11# steel propane cylinder.
:ylsmoke:


FYI - Only DOT-rated propane cylinders are required to be re-certified after 12 years or use the Type 1 Overflow Prevention Device ((OPD) valve. I have an 11# ASME-rated Manchester horizontal propane cylinder mounted to my Bantam trailer that was manufactured over 25 years ago and is still being refilled on a regular basis without any objection or concern at the propane dealer.