Mounting the Habor Freight Box

[JKJenn]

Howdy, picking up my M416 from another ExPo member on friday and I have been busy planning. I would like to add the Harbor Freight box to the tongue for a battery and wiring. How have you all mounted your HF boxes? Thanks in advance!

 

[jeepfreak81]

Here is how I did it...

 

[Mel.Specs]

I am extending the tongue on my trailer and plan on mounting my HF Tongue Box inside the frame using nutserts.

See post #55 on page 6.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/67840-My-2-trailers-build/page6

 

[JKJenn]

Thanks Jeepfreak 81 & JK Operator.

JK Operator - I would guess I could use those nutserts in the existing tongue frame, correct? That looks to be something I could do myself, which is very appealing. The Ubolts are also something I can do myslef.

 

[Mel.Specs]

Thanks Jeepfreak 81 & JK Operator.

JK Operator - I would guess I could use those nutserts in the existing tongue frame, correct? That looks to be something I could do myself, which is very appealing. The Ubolts are also something I can do myslef.

Yes, I don't see why you couldn't. You will need a nutsert installation tool. One looks like a rivet install tool and the other looks like a nut and bolt.

 

[JKJenn]

Yes, I don't see why you couldn't. You will need a nutsert installation tool. One looks like a rivet install tool and the other looks like a nut and bolt.

Cool, thanks. My step-father has every tool known to man, so I will check with him. I like what you are doing with the tongue box and if I had a few more skills, I would be looking at trying it myself.

 

[Mark Harley]

I mounted my tongue box on my 101A2 by
1.centering it on the tongue,
2.marking the underside
3.drilled throughholes in the box and smaller holes in the tongue frame.
4. tap the holes in the tongue frame
5. Liquid thread lock and lock washers on the bolts.

No loosening so far keeps tight.

 

[John E Davies]

3.drilled throughholes in the box and smaller holes in the tongue frame.
4. tap the holes in the tongue frame

Keep a close eye on them. Tapping a hole in a mild steel part for a heavy stressed accessory is problematic at best. The steel is just too durn soft (and too thin, most likely) to provide a good safety margin of strength. I've drilled and tapped holes in frames and steel bumpers, but it was for stuff like the license plate mount, or a vent hose or wire harness support clamp..... I wouldn't trust a box full of heavy stuff to tapped holes.

It's just not an acceptable mechanical practice.

I suggest that you through drill and get nuts on the back, being sure to use hardened fasteners.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[Mark Harley]

I will, They are 3/8" fine thread with lock washers and thread locker.
Into 1/8" thick boxed steel tube. 3 years and 1000 miles later and they have stayed tight.

 

[Arlo]

It's just not an acceptable mechanical practice.

Same here on the continent! :victory:

Threadlength depends on the diameter, strength of bolt and screwed material and rounds/inch.

I would like to fasten the box at the upper side to the tub too!

@Mark
1/4"UNF would have been ok then. 3/8"UNF is way too much for the 1/8" material. But if it stayed tight, it's tight!

 

[JKJenn]

Thanks for the additional advice. I have been looking for alternatives to using a tongue box but so far I have not found another box that would do the trick. Ammo cans seem too small, unless I go with a smaller battery.