My Defender 110 build up for South American travels

ExploringNH

Explorer
A 285 MT/R rubs on a 110 with a 2" lift at full steering lock. Whether you choose to do anything about it or just remember not to turn the wheel that far is another matter, but they do rub.

I have wheels with a proper offset so they don't rub. I have a few hundred on road miles and a few days off off-road miles on these tires. They only rub the corners of the flares.

Post #7 shows that I actually do get out to the trails and flex things out a bit and I am not just B.S.ing about the tires fitting.
 

Ruined Adventures

Brenton Cooper
With the lift, I wont need to trim the flares unless I plan on jumping the vehicle (which I dont plan on). The tires only rub on compression of both sides at once. (large bump, etc).
I don't want to sound pessimistic, but that sounds a lot like the topes that are notorious for sneaking up on drivers in Latin America. Of course I have no idea how large you mean, but I just wanted to point that out.

Worst case scenario, a few will surprise you and there'll be some rubs but I've been told that after a couple times you'll develop a 6th sense for where the topes are...
:sombrero:
 
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ExploringNH

Explorer
I don't want to sound pessimistic, but that sounds a lot like the topes that are notorious for sneaking up on drivers in Latin America. Of course I have no idea how large you mean, but I just wanted to point that out.

Worst case scenario, a few will surprise you and there'll be some rubs but I've been told that after a couple times you'll develop a 6th sense for where the topes are...
:sombrero:

Haha. Good point. Some of those topes I think do classify as a jump.

The tires are on the truck now with stock suspension. The only time I hear noise is if I am turning a small amount and the front axle is compressed. If only one tire hits a bump, it tilts in enough to clear. There is still a possibility that I will be trimming the flares after the lift, but with the increased spring rate and the taller stance, I shouldnt have much of an issue. If I do, it is only 1/2" of material off of each flare up front. The back clears just fine.
 

discotdi

Adventurer
Land Rover makes genuine HD springs for the 110 and the 90. I have used both OME and the HD LR and prefer the LR springs. They give a better spring rate for heavy loads, a 1.5 to 2 in lift, but have a better Ride than the OME, IMO of course.
I think they may be less expensive too.
 

Timo K

Observer
The lift is an OME lift that should net me about 1.5" over stock. The main reason for doing it is added load capacity, not height. The stock springs are pretty well overloaded at this point and you can really feel it driving down the road. A simple/quick fix would be to add a set of air shocks, but I don't feel like that is a good long term solution. Proper spring rates and matched shocks are the right way to do things. If the springs were not as taxed, I would not consider a lift. Ground clearance at your rockers at gas tank do help, regardless of diff height. The diff can be placed where you want on a trail and the tire usually goes over the tall part of the obstacle anyway. Getting the long rockers of the 110 over obstacles is sometimes a challenge. The OME lift should be well within factory design limits for alignment and driveline angles, especially with the longer 110 wheelbase.

At any rate, the main reason for the lift is spring rate.

The tires that I have on now are 285/75/16 and I prefer that size 100x over the narrow 255/85 that the ExPo forum loves. I don't want to get into a tire debate, but the potential benefits of a narrow tire don't work out for me in real life and the areas that I drive. The tires I have now rub slightly on the fender flares which can be cured with a 1/2" worth of trimming at stock height. With the lift, I wont need to trim the flares unless I plan on jumping the vehicle (which I dont plan on). The tires only rub on compression of both sides at once. (large bump, etc). With the 200tdi and Lt77 gearbox, I actually want to run a taller tire to give me more top speed. The acceleration is certainly not affected by running the larger tires. With an R380 and/or 1.4 T-case, this may be a different story.

1.5" is within reason, but I think you'll feel it already. You might gain load capacity but you'll start offsetting it with worse handling.

The route I took with my 110 when going for load capacity, was not a lift, but indeed the proper springs and suspension setup.

I've seen some really poorly lifted 110's in the UK, not saying yours will be one, but it's really easy to mess it up. You're gonna have to see alot of effort to stop the back end squatting down when fully loaded. I understand the unwillingness to go for the spring air bags, I didn't want the complexity either, but Defender 130 rear suspension works great.

Unladen it's tall and very stiff, but loaded up it's spot on. Doesn't squat, good for high speed drivinng too. Has stiffer regular springs, and helper springs inside the main ones. Good setup. I also have a twin 'V' shock absorber setup on the rear axle. Helps to significantly reduce the stress on the rear shocks, and better than the cheaper aftermarket twin shock jobs.

For offroading, I think the ~1" clearance gain under your fuel tank is not going to make a noticeable difference at all.

Do all the other mods to the truck and when fully laden, then get the suspension sorted out and try to match the stock stance as closely as possible.

My 300Tdi maxes out at about 135km/h, GPS indicated. I'm sceptical that you'll see large improvements in top speed even with a taller tyre, with the rooftent and all. I think the power simply isn't there. I'd be very cautious driving at those speeds anyway.

As for tyre width, you know what you like and go with that. I'm still running stock 235/85R16 due to that size matching 7.50R16 in diameter, making it easier to find a spare if need be. The more exotic you go the riskier it gets. I'd actually like to lower my gearing from what is now, for more control in low range first. But hey, can't have it all.

:costumed-smiley-007
 

ExploringNH

Explorer
Weighed the truck yesterday. Came in a lot lower than I was expecting. This is with 3/4 tank of diesel, passenger, child, and child gear (roughly 80lbs. Stroller alone is 30lb. plus beach gear, diaper bag, etc.). Empty weight should be an easy 200lbs less.

DefenderWeight001.jpg


1.5" is within reason, but I think you'll feel it already. You might gain load capacity but you'll start offsetting it with worse handling.

The route I took with my 110 when going for load capacity, was not a lift, but indeed the proper springs and suspension setup.

I've seen some really poorly lifted 110's in the UK, not saying yours will be one, but it's really easy to mess it up. You're gonna have to see alot of effort to stop the back end squatting down when fully loaded. I understand the unwillingness to go for the spring air bags, I didn't want the complexity either, but Defender 130 rear suspension works great.

Unladen it's tall and very stiff, but loaded up it's spot on. Doesn't squat, good for high speed drivinng too. Has stiffer regular springs, and helper springs inside the main ones. Good setup. I also have a twin 'V' shock absorber setup on the rear axle. Helps to significantly reduce the stress on the rear shocks, and better than the cheaper aftermarket twin shock jobs.

For offroading, I think the ~1" clearance gain under your fuel tank is not going to make a noticeable difference at all.

Do all the other mods to the truck and when fully laden, then get the suspension sorted out and try to match the stock stance as closely as possible.

My 300Tdi maxes out at about 135km/h, GPS indicated. I'm sceptical that you'll see large improvements in top speed even with a taller tyre, with the rooftent and all. I think the power simply isn't there. I'd be very cautious driving at those speeds anyway.

As for tyre width, you know what you like and go with that. I'm still running stock 235/85R16 due to that size matching 7.50R16 in diameter, making it easier to find a spare if need be. The more exotic you go the riskier it gets. I'd actually like to lower my gearing from what is now, for more control in low range first. But hey, can't have it all.

:costumed-smiley-007

I don't have a ton of experience with Defenders, but I do have plenty of experience with other lifted vehicles. The Defender has already spent more time off-road than it has on-road. I am very comfortable saying that an additional 1-1.5" lift will be VERY noticeable off-road.

I'll go with the OME kit for now as they have a pretty good track record with this sort of stuff. If I have any issues or don't like the way it drives, there is nothing stopping me from fitting something else. I've ridden and driven in probably 20+ OME lifted vehicles off-road and on. The biggest mistake people make with OME stuff is not matching the springs to the load. Everyone always goes for the heavy kit, for whatever reason. If you don't have a heavy load to match, the truck will ride very poorly and will not perform on the trails.

I haven't heard of anyone using the 130 springs in the rear (I haven't really looked though). That sounds like a pretty good option.

Worst case scenario, I drive the OME kit and hate it. I can then take my truck to get corner weighted and have custom springs made up to better match my specs and specially valve some shocks. At least the OME is a good starting point. I really think that the OME will suit my needs just fine though.
 

ExploringNH

Explorer
I had a late night at Ken's Offroad last night working to install the locker and the front half of the lift, as well as finish up a few small projects like mud flap brackets and boring stuff like that.

DefenderARB005.jpg


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DefenderARB008.jpg


DefenderARB009.jpg


I drove 55 miles home on the new lift and I have to say that I like it so far. It handles corners with far less roll. My old suspension had worn out shocks, so replacing those made a huge difference over bumps, especially bumpy corners. It feels like I am driving a new truck. It is completely solid going down the road and I have no felt vibrations or anything strange happening. I was a little worried about the shock valving, since I had a hard time finding any specs on it, but they feel great. I still need to get the truck aligned and I will report back once I do. I know it has is poorly aligned right now, so that should make a noticeable improvement in handling. I think I may have a little too much caster right now as well, so we will wait and see what we have for numbers.

DefenderARB010.jpg


DefenderARB011.jpg
 

ExploringNH

Explorer
I just got back from Stinky's Offroad. I wanted a way to mount my new lights and the best thing I could come up with is a NAS front roll cage. Since those things are huge money, I decided to have Stinky weld up a cage that looked similar.

Stinky doing some welding.

DefenderRollBar003.jpg


DefenderRollBar004.jpg


Set in place to get measurements and figure out the side bars. The NAS cage is wider than mine. Both cage widths have their benefits and drawbacks, but in the end, the differences are pretty minimal.

DefenderRollBar005.jpg


Plasma cutter. Cutting stuff with a cutoff wheel or angle grinder is a terrible waste of time and energy.

DefenderRollBar006.jpg


All done and ready for paint.

DefenderRollBar008.jpg


While waiting for paint to dry we went out to get the new OME suspension cycled on a local trail. It rode well on the trails but is still a little stiff to get the max articulation out of it. A few more days on the trails or a few thousand miles on road and it should break in pretty well. With a rear locker, articulation isn't a huge necessity, but it is nice to have.

Windshield-lightbar6.jpg


Windshield-lightbar7.jpg


All painted!

DefenderRollBar009.jpg


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DefenderRollBar011.jpg



I can't wait for it to get dark so I can go turn it on. I still have a couple more hours before that can happen. :smile:
 

ExploringNH

Explorer
It got dark!

I just got back in from running the 50" light. All I can say is... "WOW". It is bright. The 7" HID lights I have on the front bumper light up the road phenomenally well. With the 50" bar turned on, the HIDs are barely noticeable. I can't wait to get the 10" lights wired up. I'm hoping to be able to aim my 7" HID lights a tad bit higher to illuminate further ahead. By nature, HIDs should have a further throw than LEDs. I think that the Rigid Industries LEDs might out-throw the HIDs, but only because of the sheer volume of light. The side spill of the lights is great. The outside edges of the light have flood LEDs, while the center of the bar has Spots. I really like this setup and you can kind of see it in one of the front photos. The flood pattern LEDs really light up the sides of the road, which will be important for me. I don't want any burros launching themselves in front of me from the bushes.

The light color is very closely matched to the HIDs and the stock headlights look very yellow in comparison.

Keep in mind for these photos, my stock defender headlights are actually pretty good. They easily have as much light as any of my non-hid equipped cars.

Each photo shows ONLY the listed lights lit. None show a combination, with exception of the shots from the front.

Headlights:

DefenderRigidLED007.jpg


High Beams:

DefenderRigidLED008.jpg


Two 7" Rugged Ridge HIDs:

DefenderRigidLED006.jpg


Rigid Industries 50" E-Series LED Bar:

DefenderRigidLED009.jpg



Front view, 50" bar and two 7" HIDs. No headlights. I kept walking further and further away to try and get to a point where it didn't hurt my eyes to look back at the truck. I never found that point.

DefenderRigidLED010.jpg


100ISO, fast shutter. Still insanely bright.

DefenderRigidLED011.jpg


There is a truck in that sunburst somewhere.

DefenderRigidLED012.jpg


From the side, they aren't as bright. At this point, it was still so bright that I couldn't see anything other than bright white light. I was hoping there wasn't a car coming. Also check out my sweet wiring job. That gets cleaned up Tuesday with all of my other wiring projects. I just couldn't wait to test them out.

DefenderRigidLED013.jpg


The one bad thing about these lights is that they kill your night vision. If you turn them off and step out of the truck it feels like you just walked from outdoors into a closet. If you keep your headlights on and shut off the bar, you can still see fine.
 

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