My Dodge Dakota, the "Comvee"
- Thread starter Nick02
- Start date
maximumrob
Adventurer
Ain't nuthin' more exciting than stepping out of a dark tent at night, cold, barefoot, and with "the urge." You just never know what's going to be looking at you when you shine that flashlight on the ground!
I keep a large empty water bottle next to my sleeping bag in case my tank gets full. ...but you have to be CAREFUL or it ends up on the floor of the tent
Nick02
Member
good idea lolAin't nuthin' more exciting than stepping out of a dark tent at night, cold, barefoot, and with "the urge." You just never know what's going to be looking at you when you shine that flashlight on the ground!
I keep a large empty water bottle next to my sleeping bag in case my tank gets full. ...but you have to be CAREFUL or it ends up on the floor of the tent
how about the ladies?:Wow1:
roostercruiser
Adventurer
Nick02
Member
Nice quad cab!
The fiberglass body panels were ~$1250 shipped to my door (glassworks unlimited), the price for one steel stamped bedside was $980.00 + ~$250 shipping (according to the insurance adjuster). I wouldn't recommended the front fenders unless you run a suspension system that pushes the tires out 3-5" (perfect for a solid axle or longtravel Dakota)
now onto some updates..
I rebuilt my front suspension setup (new balljoints, bushings tierods etc..) (in the works are some custom 1/2" ball joint spacers and stainless brakelines)
It took me 4hrs to grind and punch 8 lower balljoint rivets out.. what a pain!
after I took this pic I realized I installed the balljoint upside down.... LOL!
I then had to cut the old bump stops out, for better travel and better UCA clearance for alignment. I then welded in my grind grooves to help reinforce the frame
all done! trip to the alignment shop needed!
Then I picked up these rims for a good deal, their 15X10 and by thanksgiving I plan on running 35X12.5 15's bfg MT KM2's
The fiberglass body panels were ~$1250 shipped to my door (glassworks unlimited), the price for one steel stamped bedside was $980.00 + ~$250 shipping (according to the insurance adjuster). I wouldn't recommended the front fenders unless you run a suspension system that pushes the tires out 3-5" (perfect for a solid axle or longtravel Dakota)
now onto some updates..
I rebuilt my front suspension setup (new balljoints, bushings tierods etc..) (in the works are some custom 1/2" ball joint spacers and stainless brakelines)
It took me 4hrs to grind and punch 8 lower balljoint rivets out.. what a pain!
after I took this pic I realized I installed the balljoint upside down.... LOL!
I then had to cut the old bump stops out, for better travel and better UCA clearance for alignment. I then welded in my grind grooves to help reinforce the frame
all done! trip to the alignment shop needed!
Then I picked up these rims for a good deal, their 15X10 and by thanksgiving I plan on running 35X12.5 15's bfg MT KM2's
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Nick02
Member
and I built a bumper, it's made from 2X4 1/8" hot roll and the brackets are 2X2 1/4" angle
lookin ugly
fitment with some gap for frame flex
not bad for one of my 1st welding jobs
I had to modify my cutoff saw to angle the ends of the bumper, I then cut sections of 2" 1/8" flats welded and ground them smooth to cap the ends.
BEFORE
AFTER
lookin ugly
fitment with some gap for frame flex
not bad for one of my 1st welding jobs
I had to modify my cutoff saw to angle the ends of the bumper, I then cut sections of 2" 1/8" flats welded and ground them smooth to cap the ends.
BEFORE
AFTER
BlueBomber
Adventurer
nice bumper! do you plan on adding anything to it later, like tow points or a swingout?
Nick02
Member
I plan on adding a swingout/jerrycan holder.. just saveing up right now for 35" tires and a paint job, so that's on the back burner.
I added a "winch protector" to the front "snout" bumper, I can now run over zombies! Took me a day to weld together and practice my welding, turned out better then I thought! (but still boogerish lol) my camber is screwed up in this picture... before I got it aligned! lol!
I went back and redid the front suspension, new shocks, elongated stainless brake lines and upper ball joints, I also had some custom ball joint spacers made to increse down travel, I cut the dented section of coil-buckets and reinforced the buckets with 1/8" plate, because the way the short arm kit is designed... it was denting in my coilbucket and frame! how scary! Im not happy with what I did, and it is some sketch stuff .. but it'll have to do!
I added a "winch protector" to the front "snout" bumper, I can now run over zombies! Took me a day to weld together and practice my welding, turned out better then I thought! (but still boogerish lol) my camber is screwed up in this picture... before I got it aligned! lol!
I went back and redid the front suspension, new shocks, elongated stainless brake lines and upper ball joints, I also had some custom ball joint spacers made to increse down travel, I cut the dented section of coil-buckets and reinforced the buckets with 1/8" plate, because the way the short arm kit is designed... it was denting in my coilbucket and frame! how scary! Im not happy with what I did, and it is some sketch stuff .. but it'll have to do!
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Nick02
Member
Major Update!
I got 35" tires on:wings:
Got it aligned, drives straight handles good.
I had to plate the firewall with 12ga sheet and trim the bodymounts, but the suckers fit! and I can still sit inside the garage, and small parking garage's fine. The truck still feels nimble and agile. I like the campershell, but it causes people to hate being behind me, even tho i'am anything but a slug...just stay in the right lane, and soak up my frustrations:ylsmoke:
Next up is a paint job, want to go desert tan / flat black, no gloss just flat for easy touch up. Want to do it myself, and get it done right the first time. Have around $1300 to spend.
Oh yeah, I bought this
It's a 1979 F250 D44, HP, drivers drop, HD houseing and stuff:ylsmoke: It's the highly sought after one I said I wasn't going to buy, but I got it for a good deal so why not?
Currently, it's being dissambled, then repainted. New raybestos/spicer balljoints, lockouts.. etc
Planning on a two link radius setup, one side will have two links, one side will have none like a wrist radius arm setup. Useing Xj coils and my stock coilbuckets. Converting the R&P setup to box looks fun LOL, i'am ging to use either a 79f250 box or an xj box, not sure yet. I would like to eventually run hydro assist. Full hydro would solve so many steering box/cross member/motor mount geometry problems; it may be worth the money to go with that, I need to talk to more people and do more research.
Currently riding along with Desert Taco and his kickbutt tacoma, makes me wish I had 4x4 so I could go out and hang with the big boys. But it currently looks as if good things will come to the dakota as time progresses.
I got 35" tires on:wings:
Got it aligned, drives straight handles good.
I had to plate the firewall with 12ga sheet and trim the bodymounts, but the suckers fit! and I can still sit inside the garage, and small parking garage's fine. The truck still feels nimble and agile. I like the campershell, but it causes people to hate being behind me, even tho i'am anything but a slug...just stay in the right lane, and soak up my frustrations:ylsmoke:
Next up is a paint job, want to go desert tan / flat black, no gloss just flat for easy touch up. Want to do it myself, and get it done right the first time. Have around $1300 to spend.
Oh yeah, I bought this
It's a 1979 F250 D44, HP, drivers drop, HD houseing and stuff:ylsmoke: It's the highly sought after one I said I wasn't going to buy, but I got it for a good deal so why not?
Currently, it's being dissambled, then repainted. New raybestos/spicer balljoints, lockouts.. etc
Planning on a two link radius setup, one side will have two links, one side will have none like a wrist radius arm setup. Useing Xj coils and my stock coilbuckets. Converting the R&P setup to box looks fun LOL, i'am ging to use either a 79f250 box or an xj box, not sure yet. I would like to eventually run hydro assist. Full hydro would solve so many steering box/cross member/motor mount geometry problems; it may be worth the money to go with that, I need to talk to more people and do more research.
Currently riding along with Desert Taco and his kickbutt tacoma, makes me wish I had 4x4 so I could go out and hang with the big boys. But it currently looks as if good things will come to the dakota as time progresses.
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jsnow
Adventurer
Don't go full hydro, go with the assist. As far as steering boxes go, maybe look into a Chevy box 88-98. They mount on the inside of the frame rail, so there wouldn't be any tire clearance issues. You can order a box from PSC, or one of their dealers, it will be ported and ready for hydro assist. Get the steering linkage figured out, drive it for a while, and then you can add the cylinder later.
Nick02
Member
Everyone thanks for the complements! I never fit into any niche, most people hate my vehicle.
Fenders are glass-works and have 4.5" flare 3" rise bedsides are similar.
Currently have the axle mostly disassembled, and repainted, going to be yrs before it goes in lol!
Currently want to get the truck painted, have around ~$800-1300 to spend would like to do a two tone flat desert tan/flat black like this.
Alot of progress!
I agree with jsnow.
Getting the box placement as well as your drag link and tie rod figured out is easily the most important thing. How everything meshes during suspension travel is obviously critical.
Hydro assist can be easily added after you have everything sorted out and fine tuned. Even if you have an unported box, you can always port it yourself or have it done.
Doing great so far!
I agree with jsnow.
Getting the box placement as well as your drag link and tie rod figured out is easily the most important thing. How everything meshes during suspension travel is obviously critical.
Hydro assist can be easily added after you have everything sorted out and fine tuned. Even if you have an unported box, you can always port it yourself or have it done.
Doing great so far!