my first build: 4x8 heavy-weight, with generator, A/C inside...now to begin using it!

workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
Howdy.This is my first post here, after lurking for years here and at another site http://www.tnttt.com, at which I lurked, later joined 2.8 years ago. Actually, I lurked here first, getting ideas about creating a folding plywood base for my wife's tent. She, younger than me by 14 years, is a member of a BF research group, and would go on an "expedition" (I use that term loosely, facetiously here), while I remained at home working (or drag racing). She returned from one fall trip, with her clothes, gear, and tent wet and muddy inside and out, and sick from exposure to rain and cold. I ventured that she would be better served with a her tent off-the-ground, and with some heating source if needed. Others in her group took precautions, some slept in truck toppers, etc. I offered her the use of my '75 Chevy with topper (I used it as a winter stay at work-overnight backup, in case of ice storms), or my HHR Panel, but she said no. I then proceeded to use a derelict trailer I had,derelict 4x5.jpg to build the platform on, but she wanted storage, if she were to use it with her tent. I found this site, and similar builds, but then she said "how about A/C ?", thinking that I would stop there. So I started planning a larger, more elaborate, "hardtop tent" build, and ended up going to the other website more often. I was raised in an area where I saw a lot of backyard "teardrop trailers" in the '50s (aircraft plants in the area, airframe mechanics building their own trailers...my dad was an accountant, darn it), and always wanted one. So I went in that direction. I didn't build a teardrop, but something a little different, and went overboard on weight and gear. I also ended up starting to call it "my" trailer, and decided that I wanted to start camping and outdoors activity again, after 35 years without (drag racing, though outdoors, isn't the same...). This is what I ended up building:possible  expedition trailer.jpg I'm near to retiring, so I may be a bit old to boondock in the Sierras, or trek to Bolivia in a Unimog, but I'm starting to camp again (not roughing it, with power and A/C) :):hehe:, and wish to expand that into fishing and hunting trips sometime. With my bad knees, mountain climbing is not a possibility. So, I joined this site, and will follow you adventurers, and maybe catch a tip or two, and live vicariously through you guys. Now to get a 4wd!!!
 

MTaco

Adventurer
Cool little trailer. I checked out your gallery, looks like a lot of thought went into it.
 

workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
That's a great trailer! So... what's the wife think of "your trailer"? ;-)
She thinks it is a little small (she insisted on dual doors and dual windows; she said that without them, she'd feel like she was in a cave/coffin); I would've settled for a few gunports, :REOutShootinghunter if I had built it just for myself. She also said that if she were to take it on a trip, she would need me to write an instruction manual for her to utilize it properly.
Cool little trailer. I checked out your gallery, looks like a lot of thought went into it.
No one will ever know how much thought was put into it! I'm an old redneck engineering guy, shadetree mechanic, and a drag racer; I've found out that if I change one item, it necessitates 4 more changes (there were 3 or 4 rebuilds of the A/C ducting, and 3 to get the generator w/extended run-time fuel supply like I wanted it, I moved the battery 3 times, and had 2 tongue boxes). I made countless alterations, and over thirty different "trailer balance " worksheets, trying to get the right items in the right place for proper tongue weight. And when the trailer weight exceeded my original goal of 1000 lbs, I threw reason and restraint out the window, and put everything I wanted into it after that. It ended up at 1775 lbs. I've managed to reduce that to 1628 lbs, and in the process, added a stouter 3500 lb axle w/brakes, so even though I can never tow it with my HHR, my 2500HD would tow it until I found a mid-size hauler, preferably 4WD, w/4 doors (I, and my friends and family, all seem to be crippled up with bad knees, so 4 doors is a new priority- none of our 2 daily drivers, 2 pickups, Chevelle race car, or 2 project cars have 4 doors). Thank you both for your interest in my not so little project.
 

workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
change is my only constant...

...I've found out that if I change one item, it necessitates 4 more changes...I made countless alterations, and over thirty different "trailer balance " worksheets, trying to get the right items in the right place for proper tongue weight....
As I stated before, every time I contemplate something else to make the trailer more functional (form be damned!), I make another alteration to the excellent "trailer balance" spreadsheet I've had the privilege to borrow. Once again, it shows me what effect any slight change will make on my trailer or towing capabilities. Now that I've started camping (in a very limited way, so far), I started envisioning further adventures after I gain the extra time after retirement comes. Off-road (for me, a flatlander, that means crossing fields and bar-ditches, or just off the highway) is one thing I must plan for, to make the trailer all-purpose. I'm attempting to settle on finding a vehicle for these excursions, but for now, I'm using a 2500HD Chevy 2WD. I use a weight distributing hitch to tow everything with, and the little trailer is no exception (I've had trailer/tow vehicle separation before; this is a safety against recurrence). But, the wd hitch severely restricts flexibility (thus breakover angle), so I know I have to ditch the spring bar before leaving the road. I intend to make a secondary offroading coupler for the next tow vehicle (hopefully a smaller 4WD), so I won't have to worry about coming "off the ball". So, I mathematically shifted a 50 lb cooler from nose to tail of the trailer, and now the tongue weight is 12.4% as opposed to only 9.9% previously. That'll help. Another problem is the departure angle of the trailer, compromised by the long rear over hang, and the pipe-clamp stabilizers I use (hanging down 6 inches). Not a problem now (at 15-17 degrees when towed by the truck at 5-7 degree up-angle, or 22 degrees when level), but when I go offroad, it might be. Until I get an offroad capable vehicle, and match up the tires/wheels to it, I won't know the final departure angle of the trailer...or am I planning way too far ahead? effect of rebalance to enable elimination of wd hitch offroad.jpg
 
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workingonit71

Aspirantes ad Adventure
feedback needed on minimum clearance/angles & suspension travel for very mild offroad

...Now that I've started camping (in a very limited way, so far), I started envisioning further adventures after I gain the extra time after retirement comes. Off-road (for me, a flatlander, that means crossing fields and bar-ditches, or just off the highway) is one thing I must plan for, to make the trailer all-purpose.... a problem is the departure angle of the trailer, compromised by the long rear over hang, and the pipe-clamp stabilizers I use (hanging down 6 inches). Not a problem now (at 15-17 degrees when towed by the truck at 5-7 degree up-angle, or 22 degrees when level), but when I go offroad, it might be. Until I get an offroad capable vehicle, and match up the tires/wheels to it, I won't know the final departure angle of the trailer...or am I planning way too far ahead?
The main focus of my trailer is mainly for utility at public campsites (State, National Parks, etc.); but if my wife uses it now , on her BF excursions, or I do, later, when I retire, for actual minor boondocking on other sites, I would like to know if I must make changes to some items, first. (A) ground clearance: trailer is on 14" tires, with 21" to bottom of frame, about 9.5" to bottom of tieplates-8.5" bottom u-bolts-, and 15" below the raised stabilizers (plan to use 16" wheels after new tow vehicle is chosen, there's 4" room inside the fenders)>should gain some more clearance; (B) bump stops:I have only 1.125" axle travel at full droop, shocks would be ineffective with that little travel, so I cut down a Daystar poly bump stop to fill the space between axle and frame; with top removed and curved to fit the axle, it is soft and pliable-until the two 1/2"gaps are closed under compression (more pliability can be gained by severing the ligament separating the gaps); the bump stop assembly is easily removed/modifiable (one bolt)>suspension tested 500 miles w/o bump stop over varying roads and light terrain (OK, minimal bounce), and 25 miles with bump stop assembly mounted over bad rural roads (OK, no bounce detected). Do I need a lot more clearance than the foreseeable 8-10" that new tires and wheels would gain (measured under tieplate), and are shocks needed and should I ditch the active/progressive bump stop? I do not intend to run the trails, but maybe (slowly) travel deeply rutted roads in the Hill Country or Piney Woods regions of Texas (Colorado and Arkansas, perhaps later). Opinions? Concerning the bump stop: on the other website, none agreed with my trying out this modification, but surely it has some merit in an offroad application (I'd rather have the bump stop always in contact, and rough riding, than to have the springs overflex, and break-or the spring hangers rip loose).
  • daystar 4.5 inch tall bump stop.jpg bump stop modified, welded to angle
  • axle travel is minimal; reason for modified bump stop.jpg slip-fit and bolted into gap
  • finished axle reinforcement-replacement assembly.jpg finished assemblies (frame reinforcement/spring hangers/bump stops)
 
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