My first Land Cruiser need advice.

[REDrum]

A guy is telling me a 93 he has has the lockers in the axles and the wiring harness under the dash and on the axles but not the switch on the dash to activate them. Is this possible or failing the sniff test? Thank you

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/buying-an-80-warning-advice.39293/

Post #8 is key for a sniff test. Not to say someone couldn't have added locking axles/actuators, that is obvious to verify, but very doubtful. If that is the case, it will still take a lot of work to get the ECU and wiring correct for full function.

 

[DetroitDiesel]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/buying-an-80-warning-advice.39293/

Post #8 is key for a sniff test. Not to say someone couldn't have added locking axles/actuators, that is obvious to verify, but very doubtful. If that is the case, it will still take a lot of work to get the ECU and wiring correct for full function.

Thank you for the info. So if its a good vehicle overall should I just disregard lockers or not and if the rest of the vehicle is good thats more important than lockers? I dont climb rocks. I would just put my own lockers if the day came and I needed them is my thought but factory is always better than aftermarket.

 

[REDrum]

Thank you for the info. So if its a good vehicle overall should I just disregard lockers or not and if the rest of the vehicle is good thats more important than lockers? I dont climb rocks. I would just put my own lockers if the day came and I needed them is my thought but factory is always better than aftermarket.

All depends on your goals for the truck. PM history, rust and head gasket age are always key with FZJ80s

If you are looking to do overlanding/camping and light 4wheeling out of it, no F/R locker is fine. Good tires and the CDL can get you through a lot (often is more about the indian than the arrow too...)

For intermediate level wheeling, rock and mud negotiation, F/R lockers are are nice (and a winch), but not required. Either Aussie & Kaiser lockers can be installed for around $1K per axle (Aussie a little less, Kaiser a little more), if you really feel you need. OEM retro fit and ARB air lockers can get north of $2K per axle pretty quick depending on how much wrenching you do on your own.

 

[DetroitDiesel]

All depends on your goals for the truck. PM history, rust and head gasket age are always key with FZJ80s

If you are looking to do overlanding/camping and light 4wheeling out of it, no F/R locker is fine. Good tires and the CDL can get you through a lot (often is more about the indian than the arrow too...)

For intermediate level wheeling, rock and mud negotiation, F/R lockers are are nice (and a winch), but not required. Either Aussie & Kaiser lockers can be installed for around $1K per axle (Aussie a little less, Kaiser a little more), if you really feel you need. OEM retro fit and ARB air lockers can get north of $2K per axle pretty quick depending on how much wrenching you do on your own.

Looking at your sig and going by your responses which I appreciate I think you might have a biased opinion on my next question. I know you have seen all different vehicles in all situations including Subies. I have Subies a bunch of them. Im looking for something above a Subaru in off road capability without going into a bunch of modifications. Now please be impartial when answering this. Would a WJ Grand Cherokee Overland be all I need out the box with tires and Quadradrive? I understand the beauty of the older no electronics and such but this car isn't leaving the country or anything like that. Its a like 5k mile a year plus any trip car. Its a flat decision between an 80 or a WJ overland. Or even a v8 laredo with selectrac which loses the lsd. I think you will say a 5 grand clean no rust fzj80 with lockers because if 2 grand per axle to retro fit and I can get the whole car for 5 with lockers thats the way to go. Its all clear to me now so what do you think? And I can wrench not diagnose the problems though. Im a parts changer basically. Thank you

 

[86tuning]

For mostly off pavement travel I believe either truck will work fine. For travelling at freeway speeds...fzj80 will get up to 80mph on 35s with stock gearing, given friendly terrain. As always, buy the nicest truck you can afford. Consider spending a few more bucks for a nicer truck. More time driving, less time fixing

 

[DetroitDiesel]

For mostly off pavement travel I believe either truck will work fine. For travelling at freeway speeds...fzj80 will get up to 80mph on 35s with stock gearing, given friendly terrain. As always, buy the nicest truck you can afford. Consider spending a few more bucks for a nicer truck. More time driving, less time fixing

Will it fit 35s stock? That seems huge my f350 doesnt clear 35s stock. Or are you saying if I lifted it and had 35s the gearing would not need to be changed. I dont see this LC ever going above 55 mph for any reason or any length of time. This car will be my go slow and smell the roses car. Thats why power and fuel economy are not even a discussion for me. I have a 91 that needs a HG, a 94 with rust and lockers, and a WJ overland to look at tmrw. I'm probably going to get the 94 with rust and lockers and just do all the PM and then just drive it till it dies. The Jeep overland has so many electronic gizmos and bs that I dont need. Are there manual LC 80 out there or is that not going to be found? I would really like a manual fzj80 if that exists.

 

[coax]

A few thoughts:
--Will it fit 35s stock? --> The fit(ish). Really the physical fitment of tires that large depend on both the width (with the 315/75/16 being the most common), and your intended use. With stock springs that have sagged out, 35's will rub offroad. You can get 33's to rub offroad if you really get after it. For the most part 33's are a great fit for a stock truck.
-- if I lifted it and had 35s the gearing would not need to be changed--> Gearing changes are one of the great debates on 'mud. Some stick with stock gears and big tires, others advocate for any other combination. Really, it comes down to use/terrain, altitude, and the weight of your truck. Many people run 35's or bigger on stock gears and have no problems. I went with 33's and 4.88's and its much better at altitude, but worse on the highway, as expected.
-- Are there manual LC 80 out there or is that not going to be found? --> Not from the factory that were sold in this country. While there may be some swaps floating around, for the most part automatic is it.

hth.

 

[DetroitDiesel]

A few thoughts:
--Will it fit 35s stock? --> The fit(ish). Really the physical fitment of tires that large depend on both the width (with the 315/75/16 being the most common), and your intended use. With stock springs that have sagged out, 35's will rub offroad. You can get 33's to rub offroad if you really get after it. For the most part 33's are a great fit for a stock truck.
-- if I lifted it and had 35s the gearing would not need to be changed--> Gearing changes are one of the great debates on 'mud. Some stick with stock gears and big tires, others advocate for any other combination. Really, it comes down to use/terrain, altitude, and the weight of your truck. Many people run 35's or bigger on stock gears and have no problems. I went with 33's and 4.88's and its much better at altitude, but worse on the highway, as expected.
-- Are there manual LC 80 out there or is that not going to be found? --> Not from the factory that were sold in this country. While there may be some swaps floating around, for the most part automatic is it.

hth.

Thank you for your input. I want a beater LC80 and its either super nice for 9 or beat down for 2 grand. I really like this no rust 91 cloth with new tires but it overheats so thats most likely a HG. So I may just grab this fairly beat up 94. I want just a basic setup no lift. So the Jeep can handle 30s stock with 373 and quadradrive. A LC80 has 32 stock on the fzj but 16". I'm torn if I should just get the 91 and learn how to do the head gasket and the rest is in good nick. Then I have the more simpler platform to be a beater. I can buy a rear locker and be set. I am going to drive the 91 and the 94 tmrw.

I can do the HG on the early Subaru motors and I work on BMW inline 6s a lot. The m30 and the m/s 50/52. Is the 3fe HG along those lines of difficulty? Can it be done in the car without a lift? If it can be I might just do the HG on the 91 to become one with the machine.

 

[foeix]

For the sake of Land Cruiser conservation go with the WJ :bike_rider:

I don't think these rigs should be relegated to beater status.

 

[bjowett]

The 3FE is an old push rod engine that was updated with efi. The 1FZ is similar to the series of BMW S and M engines you reference.

If it has not been mentioned, the 8/92 and up build has a full floating rear axle.

 

[REDrum]

Looking at your sig and going by your responses which I appreciate I think you might have a biased opinion on my next question. I know you have seen all different vehicles in all situations including Subies. I have Subies a bunch of them. Im looking for something above a Subaru in off road capability without going into a bunch of modifications. Now please be impartial when answering this.

Having owned (5) Subaru and (5) Land Cruisers, and run them both very hard in rally racing and 4-wheeling, its hard NOT to be impartial

If you have owned and wrenched on Subaru you will be very comfortable with a Land Cruiser. In many ways one could consider a 1996 Legacy Outback wagon to be first cousin to a 1996 Land Cruiser 80, only with a flat 4 instead of straight 6. If you feel the love of a Subaru, you'll get the very similar back from a Land Cruiser. Both have "the beauty of AWD"

For the type of off-roading you have described in your plans an SUV without locking diffs could work fine, (Jeep, Land Cruiser, Nissan; just not Land Rover..) So then focus on condition and maintenance history of truck. If you can find a truck with decent maintenance history, low/no rust, in the color you like, and in your price range, go for it! I like mine in grey

Land Cruiser 80s are very robust and easy to repair platforms, compared to British (late model Landys) and German (G-wagon) its a no brainer. There is a reason the Land Cruiser platform is preferred world wide over Land Rover. I'm also partial to the K5 platform with 350TBI and 700R tranny, low cost of entry and parts, just hard not to get with rust. And I just picked up a 77 Cherokee Chief.... Again, IMO, the 91/92 FJ80s are not worth my time of day. But, with any 20+ year old vehicle, they will have pricy overhaul cycles. Cost can be lessened if you do your own wrenching.

 

[DetroitDiesel]

I'm also partial to the K5 platform with 350TBI and 700R tranny, low cost of entry and parts, just hard not to get with rust. And I just picked up a 77 Cherokee Chief.... Again, IMO, the 91/92 FJ80s are not worth my time of day. But, with any 20+ year old vehicle, they will have pricy overhaul cycles. Cost can be lessened if you do your own wrenching.

Nice Impreza. The 96 Outback is my muse. I can rebuild that car in my sleep. Ive owned countless first gen outback and Im a 95-99 Legacy wagon guy myself. 96 outback 2.2 and Legacy L wagon 2.2. The dohc 2.5 I dont touch. Im comfortable wrenching I just need some guidance to get through. I see you mentioned the k5, well I love the m1009 its just not a "off road" machine its more of a highway cruiser but I'm thinking it might be able to fit my needs even with the 308 rear end. With the diesel it will generate torque at low rpm. I was looking for 4 doors and something that I can sleep in. The Land Cruiser is ideal I just need to find the right deal.


So I went and looked at the 91 he wants 2900 obo. Its a 17 year old kid who's dad is in the car business took the Land Cruiser in at the Toyota Dealer as one owner dealer maintained. He received the car as a gift from his dad as first car. Well its not too bad on the outside or inside but then I opened the hood. The kid said it was smoking after he would run it for 15 20 minutes but the temp gauge isn't rising. So I thought maybe a oil leak onto the exhaust. Boy was I wrong. So heres the pics of it. I told him 800 and he said he would have to think about it. He already has another vehicle to drive so he's not going to put money into it. The guy with the 94 stopped responding after I asked to see the switch for the lockers or the vin plate. So I'm going to continue the search. Im thinking that instead of finding one in my price range my price range needs to change. Or an alternative is buying this for 800 and spending 5-7 putting a 5.3 vortec in there and have a better product than a fzj for 7. Heres the pics from today and check out that oil


How about some cappuccino oil lol


I saw that oil and said oh boy thanks for your time.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...If it has not been mentioned, the 8/92 and up build *has* a full floating rear axle.

*Can have*

There are absolutely 1993 and even 1994 model FZJ80's rocking a semi-float rear axle. While most got the full-float, the semi-float was still in sporadic use until ~94. Minor point but I'm a big believer in the full-float axle under heavily loaded trucks and those used hard off-road. An axle swap is direct and easy but one more thing to worry about not to mention the drum brakes that accompany the semi-float. Easy to spot, no diff cover or disc brakes = full-float. Removable rear diff cover & drums, semi-float.

 

[REDrum]

I'm a big believer in the full-float axle under heavily loaded trucks and those used hard off-road

Yes, agreed, very good point. It was a major search criteria for my '94.

 

[DetroitDiesel]

I think I'm going to go with a fj60. 85-87 manual trans. I just found those never really saw one before but thats perfect for what I want. I want a manual and I want simple. I like these never saw but they remind me of Scouts or old Cherokees and thats what my father had was Scouts. He has about 10-15 of those over my childhood I think the Land Cruiser 60 is along those lines it looks like an Indiana Jones vehicle. So I like these and have found a few with various swaps and stock and restored. Im going to spend around 5k on the best 85-87 manual I can find.

How low do those leaf springs in the front of a 60 hang down? In the few I've seen it looks like that would get caught up on things in the brush. Is that a non issue?