My H3's Drawer/Platform System

[Raw7s]

My system isn't going to win any awards for craftsmanship like some of yours, but it works for me and is exactly what I want. I'd like to thank everyone that posted pictures of their systems as I gathered ideas from seeing them, and I'm sure you'll recognize parts of your cabinet in mine. I've been doing this on a budget and I'm just under $100 total for the build.

I feel like I have left room for modifications without causing too much extra work, so if anyone has an idea please feel free to share.

My cardboard concept. One of my biggest concerns was seeing if the extension piece could fit through the doors, it's 48"x31", luckily it can be rotated inside with the front seats forward. I determined the drawers/cabinet could not be more than 8" in height if I wanted to keep a simple level platform top that would rest on the folded down rear seats. I also noticed that keeping it at 8" I am still able to access the cargo area power outlet, and can still use the storage compartments.

because the rear hatch does not open to a full 90* angle, I had to move the location of the slide-out-tray for the cooler to the right side so it can each full extension.

I left space on the sides, instead of having the cabinet touch both sides of the cargo area, so I can still reach the anchor points on the floor to strap the cabinet down.

drawer #1 is done, and I decided on using a rope for the handle instead of a metal option. I tied a knot on the back side and fused it together with a torch. It's very unlikely to fail, it doesn't make any noise, and it takes up no room. There aren't any sliders for this drawer, it slides well enough on the bare wood. It was built with the measurements of my Coleman grill/stove and accessories to be stored in. That piece sitting on the right side is planned for a cooler to sit on and slide out. It is explained a little more at the end.

I sprayed bed liner on all of the surfaces that will come in contact with items. I first used Duplicolor, and it was even lower quality than expected, imagine that. Then I tried Rustoleum, it worked much better and was worth the $8/can.

I bolted two metal plates to the extension board, with about an inch extending over so it can rest on the cabinet and hold my weight. I used 4 carriage bolts in each plate, with fender washers on the back side. I may add a couple more for each plate cause when I was testing it and was bouncing my entire weight I heard signs of stress around the plate.

This is my simple way of attaching the extension board to the cabinet. After taking a drive with this, the metal pieces knocking together makes too much noise, and I have since wrapped the anchored loops with electrical tape and the noise is gone.

The whole thing can be easily removed in 2 minutes. Or I can leave just the drawer section in with the rear seats folded up. Versatility was one of my biggest objectives as my H3 is my daily driver.

I'm not sure if I'm done because right now I can sit my cooler in the empty space where I planned on putting a drawer, and this leaves enough space above it to open the lid without hitting the ceiling. But I'd like to use this space for a second drawer. My plans were to build a top tray that the cooler would sit on using the concept of this guy's expert work:


http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47516

To maximize space I was going to go with sliders instead of bearings. Does anyone know a slider than can extend to 26"-28" that can handle a fully loaded ice chest while driving on a rough trail? Or will any 150-200lb slider work well enough?

 

[evldave]

Looking great so far!! I think just about any 150-200# slide will work. Some thoughts from my H3 rear platform builds (I've gone through a couple iterations)

If you do a lot of loading/unloading in the back where the rear seats are, or have a bunch of stuff piled on there, it will 'bounce' quite a bit (from the padding on the seat)...over time that will wear out the holes in the plywood and loosen the carraige bolts. I put some braces down to the floor and that helped...then, I got sick of it and...

If you don't mind a few extra minutes of time, and have space for the rear seats, it's easy to remove them - 4 screws and 4 bolts and the entire set comes out. This has some real benefits:

Lots more space under the platform in the front.
Your driver's seat can go all the way back
More stable platform, since the seats aren't bouncing
Room for long stuff (ie hi-lift) under the platform
More secure tie-down of the platform (you can bolt it to the seat mounts in the front)


...obviously for your needs this may not work (I've switched from half platform to full platform, to half over the years)...

Also, you can get an extra 1-2" of space under the rear of the platform if you remove the thick rubber mat in the back...it's not too difficult and really gives a lot of extra height back there

The whole thing looks great so far - I'm subscribing!

 

[Raw7s]

Also, you can get an extra 1-2" of space under the rear of the platform if you remove the thick rubber mat in the back...it's not too difficult and really gives a lot of extra height back there

how do you remove the mat? and what's underneath it?

 

[Raw7s]

so I've decided to add the second drawer, which will require sliders for the top platform section and the drawer. I ordered 2 pairs of slides from www.lockandhinge.com. One pair wasn't what I ordered, and the pair that was correct was broken(slide only extended half way). Had to talk to a very impolite associate at some hardware store in Brooklyn where they were apparently headquartered. After working on convincing him I didn't order this double high heavy duty slide, he said I could get a full refund, including return shipping, if I sent it back. I was refunded, but not for $8 of the return shipping.

3 days ago I decided to try my luck at www.drawerslides.com, after talking to their customer service confirming I'm not going to get screwed like I did with lock&hinge. The slide(yes, singular) came in yesterday, and it's not even what I ordered! They sent me 1 x 20" slide, when I ordered 2 x 26" slides!

I'm going to call them in a couple hours when they open, and get this worked out, again.

Does anyone know of a trusted slider company I can buy from?

 

[Raw7s]

so I finished it about a month ago. Took it on some trails and camping a few days later and everything worked great!

I'm still contemplating removing the back seats. I took quite a bit with me on the camping trip and I wasn't short on space. But if I ever plan on lacking needed space, they'll come out and I'll fashion some sort of legs to support the platform.

------------

and a reply to my previous post: the situation was settled very well as I described in this thread, http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=720501#post720501

 

[Ramjet]

Wow!! :Wow1: I love it. Is there anyway you can post some close-up pics of the slide out for the cooler. Thats the idea I have for my system. I would just like to see how you incorporated the drawer and the slide. Very sleek idea.

 

[Snagger]

It's a very neat fit, but I don't think those clips will take any significant load before shearing in an impact, and the whole lot will then be free to smash into your head. I can't see screws being a secure way of fitting the tops either - a crash will likely see heavy objects rip the screws out and the tops off the system. I'd fit some proper tie-downs along the sides of the load bay and then use simple ratchet straps to secure the drawers - the drawers would be completely secure in even a heavy impact and the straps would keep the tops on too. Two birds, one stone, and it'd still be extremely quick to fit and remove.

 

[Raw7s]

It's a very neat fit, but I don't think those clips will take any significant load before shearing in an impact, and the whole lot will then be free to smash into your head. I can't see screws being a secure way of fitting the tops either - a crash will likely see heavy objects rip the screws out and the tops off the system. I'd fit some proper tie-downs along the sides of the load bay and then use simple ratchet straps to secure the drawers - the drawers would be completely secure in even a heavy impact and the straps would keep the tops on too. Two birds, one stone, and it'd still be extremely quick to fit and remove.

in the picture I only have the strap over the cabinet anchoring it to the floor. But I use 2 more when traveling. 1 more over the cabinet near the back door, and 1 over the platform. Those anchor loops are supposed to be rated to 700 lbs each or something. I know in a high impact, you have to multiply an object's mass many many times, so that rating might be useless. And I'm sure the screws are the weakest point.

Every piece of that cabinet is glued, and screwed about every 6 inches. Coupling that with the heavy duty straps to the floor I feel pretty safe the cabinet isn't going anywhere. I'm just not confident in the anchor loops holding down a 70 lb ice chest on a sliding tray in case of a high impact.

if I do put straps over the cargo(not just the platform or drawers), do you think the lateral force will still be able to push the objects forward out from under the straps? And if the anchor loops aren't enough, what are my other options?

I appreciate your concern and help

 

[roadtripcrazed]

Nice to see someone run with my design for an integrated fridge/cargo slide! Glad it worked out for you. Your project has turned out realy well - be sure to get out there and enjoy it!

-=D

 

[Uncle Roger]

My system isn't going to win any awards for craftsmanship like some of yours, but it works for me and is exactly what I want. I'd like to thank everyone that posted pictures of their systems as I gathered ideas from seeing them, and I'm sure you'll recognize parts of your cabinet in mine. I've been doing this on a budget and I'm just under $100 total for the build.

I feel like I have left room for modifications without causing too much extra work, so if anyone has an idea please feel free to share.

My cardboard concept. One of my biggest concerns was seeing if the extension piece could fit through the doors, it's 48"x31", luckily it can be rotated inside with the front seats forward. I determined the drawers/cabinet could not be more than 8" in height if I wanted to keep a simple level platform top that would rest on the folded down rear seats. I also noticed that keeping it at 8" I am still able to access the cargo area power outlet, and can still use the storage compartments.

I read the first two paragraphs and saw this picture and thought that was it. I almost fell off the bed laughing. (with you, not at you; my set up is no better.)

Of course, your final version is pretty sweet.

Thanks for the laugh!

 

[Raw7s]

I read the first two paragraphs and saw this picture and thought that was it. I almost fell off the bed laughing. (with you, not at you; my set up is no better.)

Of course, your final version is pretty sweet.

Thanks for the laugh!

HAHA that is funny

I probably should have left it with just that picture, see how nice people could be :sombrero:

 

[Snagger]

in the picture I only have the strap over the cabinet anchoring it to the floor. But I use 2 more when traveling. 1 more over the cabinet near the back door, and 1 over the platform. Those anchor loops are supposed to be rated to 700 lbs each or something. I know in a high impact, you have to multiply an object's mass many many times, so that rating might be useless. And I'm sure the screws are the weakest point.

Every piece of that cabinet is glued, and screwed about every 6 inches. Coupling that with the heavy duty straps to the floor I feel pretty safe the cabinet isn't going anywhere. I'm just not confident in the anchor loops holding down a 70 lb ice chest on a sliding tray in case of a high impact.

if I do put straps over the cargo(not just the platform or drawers), do you think the lateral force will still be able to push the objects forward out from under the straps? And if the anchor loops aren't enough, what are my other options?

I appreciate your concern and help

My misunderstanding - I thought the ratchet strap in your initial photos was a temporary solution and that you were planning to secure the system to the load bed with those dog-lead type clips as in the second last photo!:Wow1:

Two ratchet straps with those four 700lb tie downs should be fine. Whether any loads on top of the system could slip out from under the straps depends entirely on their size, shape and how tight the straps are, but if they're rigid, regular shape and of decent size, I can't imagine the whole lot moving.

So, I presume those clips are for holding storage lids open?