My M101A2 Build Photos

wvtradbow

Observer
I really love the simplicity of this build.A great dual purpose trailer..I'm redoing a 1963 M101A1 now, an am probably going to copy your build.. It looks from the photo's that your rack is removable with just 4 bolts on each support,am I seeing that correctly? THANKS so much for the topper idea.I have an old 89 F150 from a previous build an the bed looks to be the exact same size as these old M1O1s.....
 

M8A1MuleBuilder

New member
I am building a M8A1 Ammo Mule style trailer. It has ez lube 3,500 lb brake axle, 3” axle tube, 6,000 lb leafs, rectangular box steel frame 1.5” x 3” x 16 ga, 18 ga cold roll smooth sheet metal, 26” side walls, lid with external adjustable tent rack, spare tire mount, rear leveling jacks, side steps, ammo cans for storage covered fuel storage box, 2” ball coupler, max coupler soon, 5,000 lb safety cables, Jeep OEM take off wheels model to fit over brake hubs, D Rings, Hooks, I put black pro grade bed liner on the underside and I plan to use tan pro grade bed liner top side.
I can’t wait to take it up to the Magellon rim near parson AZ soon !
Thx
Nate
 

Quiero_acampar

New member
I want to build a rack for mine, but will likely only hold a kayak and maybe the occasional bits of lumber. I noticed you went all the way down the sides with yours, but do you think it would be strong enough to rest it on the lip of the trailer? Maybe make something that goes down into the stake holes to keep it from moving around? Im trying keep it simple and avoid permanent/irreversible changes.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Yes, you can. I am in the process of building an “Adventure Rack” for lack of better term. Whether you rest it on the bottom or top lip, you will be fine.

A bigger footprint for your legs will always be better. 2x2x1/8” angle iron is what I’m using because my rack is built from schedule 40 1” pipe, which is 1.3” diam. The top lip is 2” so this works out well.

I placed my angle iron on the lip with a 1/4” gap between the inside angle and the wall since angle iron has a radiused inside edge and I wanted it to lay flat (and I wanted to leave some room since I will probably spray my bed) marked removed and drilled my angle iron, then clamped it to the trailer then drilled holes in he trailer lip. Then welded my legs on.
 

Quiero_acampar

New member
I had a similar idea, but was wondering what do do about that inner radius. I don't have access to a mill, and don't think that my grinder hand is steady enough. This would be my first foray into welding, and don't think I would do well welding two flat bars of steel for 8 feet straight either. Thanks for the input though. It gives me more things to think about in my design for the eventual project.
 

SoDakSooner

Adventurer
As long as the gap isn't huge you should be able to weld it well enough. Just grind and test, grind and test, ad nauseum, till you get it close.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
You are obsessing too much over a tiny radius. It’s nothing. Also, look at the edge of the trailer, it has a bit of a radius as well. Just place a washer between the edge of the trailer and the angle iron as your spacer. Use a clamp to hold it (2nd picture) I used two washers because I did a complete 3 sided setup and I wanted plenty of clearance for bedliner and some additional just cuz. The space looks big here, but not in “real life”. It looks normal.

CF777FE6-CF75-41D7-8BB6-3BD8E5006736.jpeg
DFD738D4-095A-45A6-A645-D8609A30AED2.jpeg
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
I’m about to start the write up on it. It’s a bit different than most Adventure trailers built here, because my adventures are a bit different.
 

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