My M1101 Project

JPShooter

Adventurer
Will you be installing an inverter? Or just keepin it real with whatever you can run on 12v?

Did you address the trailer lights and I missed it? I am in a quandary on what to do with mine. Install a separate set of 12v lighting and keep the military 24v system, or swap out bulbs and rewire it for standard civilian plug.

Keep up the good work!


I have an ArkPak 730 on the way as well as a VMAX AGM battery (1125 AH). I plan on mounting that in an aluminum truck box located in the bed of the trailer at the front.

It has a 300W inverter built in.

It's not as elegant as a home built power box with all the custom bells and whistles, but it's fast and easy and will get me on the road so I can see what I like and don't like about it. It's also something that I can move easily from the trailer to my truck or my 4Runner if I desire. If in the future I want to build custom for the trailer I'm sure I can find a good use for the ArkPak or easily sell it.

I also broke down and ordered a 63 QT. ARB fridge. I thought I would just go coolers and ice, but once I started taking inventory of my coolers I realized that what I have is the standard "day at the lake" quality coolers and nothing like a Yeti or similar quality. For extended stays the cheap stuff would be less than adequate.

Cry once is a motto I usually go by.
 

JPShooter

Adventurer
Did you address the trailer lights and I missed it? I am in a quandary on what to do with mine. Install a separate set of 12v lighting and keep the military 24v system, or swap out bulbs and rewire it for standard civilian plug.

Sorry, I missed your question about the lights in my earlier reply.

This is a 2011 model and came with LED lights. Running on 12v all the lights are quite bright except the rear mains in the running mode. In other words, when activating the brakes, the brake lights are just fine, it's just when not on the brake that the lights are a bit dim.

All the running lights are very bright, and there are red reflectors on the rear as well. I also added some of that red and white alternating safety tape that DOT requires on commercial trailers to the rear cross member just above the three running lights center low. So I'm willing to use it like it is with all the other lighting and reflective surfaces on the rear even though the rear lights are a bit dim when off the brake.
 

JPShooter

Adventurer
Here's a shot of the truck box that I had on hand from my quad trailer. Did not use it much there, so it's getting used here for now to see how this works out.

There's just the right space on the left and right for two water jugs on each side with some space left over to put some folded tarps (for misc. use) that will provide lateral padding for the jugs.

The truck box will house the ArkPak with room to spare for lots of other stuff that will be secure in a locked box.

You can see that I've situated the box to open to the front. Because the top of the box is even with the top of the trailer bed, the latches to the box are below the lip of the trailer bed. In order to solve that problem I had to either raise the box (did not want to do that for various reasons) or set it back enough to get my key in the lock as well as my hand on the latch. In so doing I ended up with the perfect space to place my two camp tables (folding 5 foot tables made by Lifetime).

IMG_5890.jpg


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IMG_5892.jpg
 

JPShooter

Adventurer
Update

So we finally went on our first trip with the new rig.

This was not an overlanding adventure at all, just a trip to a NF campground at Bull Lake in Montana. Just a chance to see something new and find out what works and what doesn't.

Overall very happy, with some changes in mind for winter projects.

First of all, the brakes. The surge brakes worked adequately, but they're just not as nice as driving with electric brakes. So I will likely convert the trailer to electric over hydraulic. But it's not a top priority yet.

Hitch. The pintle hitch is, like most things, a matter of pro's and con's. For myself I would prefer a quieter hitch with less clunking, but this again is not a front burner item. This will get converted with the electric over hydraulic conversion since the most logical place (at least as I see it now) for the electric/hyd. unit to mount is where the surge unit is now. So the surge unit goes, and with it the lunette ring and the new hitch bar will go under the frame instead of over as it is now.

I'm thinking of ways to make a tonneau type cover for the trailer to protect items in the bed from the elements as well as prying eyes.

I built the rack tall enough and with telescoping capability so that I could load a four wheeler if I desired, but with the later mods for power and shower I have negated that ability. However, it appears to be a good thing that I ended up with a tall rack as it gives me some interesting options for loading of toys (bikes and kayaks). You will see in a photo below that I have mounted bike carriers to the open space on the upper rack next to the RTT. Another reason that I built the rack at this height is that I did not want an additional step of having to raise the rack for tent use. The rack is at the perfect height for the annex on the tent without having to fiddle with rack height. And the annex is a very nice addition to the tent for family camping. If I was by myself I wouldn't bother with an annex, but then if I was by myself this whole rig would be something different!

We are a family of three, and there is room up there for three bikes. On the truck I have a TracRac system that holds a roof top clamshell type car box with room still for one kayak. The items I load in the trailer all sit about flush with the top of the bed with the exception of the two folding tables that I have in the front, but they can be easily moved elsewhere if need be. My thought is to put two more kayaks in the trailer, sliding them in side by side with the hull down and then tying them up under the rack (imagine kayaks on the roof, but everything upside down).

That would give us three bikes and three kayaks! Not that we would take all of this with us every time, but it's doable should the desire be there.

The 63QT ARB ran off the 125AH ArkPak for about 48 hours with no charge input (too shady and cloudy for solar this trip) and also three showers each night for two nights and the battery was still at 62%. I did not enforce any fridge discipline in order to see what it might be like with lot's of in and out traffic. The temps were 80ish (in shade) during the day and 50's at night.


IMG_5902.jpg


Here's our shower setup that worked out really well. An EcoTemp L5 with hoses running back to the trailer for water and propane. The support system I fabricated out of square telescoping aluminum tubing so it compacts and stows easily. The shower tent is from Wal-Mart and is a shower/changing/potty tent that sets up in a flash very easily by one person and seems to be well enough made given the price point. There's some small changes I will make yet to this setup, but it seems to work really well. The water is stowed in and pumped by a 16 gallon NorthStar ATV Spot Sprayer.

IMG_5903.jpg



This last shot was prior to the trip just working on loading options.

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Jarred

Member
I like it! I'm doing something similar with my 1102. This is before I added my electrical components.
I'll be watching this thread for sure!!

Side_Tent.jpg
 

Al_In_AV

New member
I would also like to know where you purchased the LP bottle mounts. Keep up the good work on your trailer build. I'm torn whether to get a trailer like yours or to build one from scratch. I have the tools to do it, but wondering if an M1101/2 would be a better choice.
 

Jarred

Member
I'm in Northern California and I had it custom built by a local truck rack manufacturer - RackIt - http://www.rackitinc.com/
If I were to do it over again, I would have had them put 3 bars across the top vs. two.
PM me if you want his information.
 

dcarteaux

Wild Butch
Following your lead...

Your project is very much like mine, though I am just beginning. Thanks for the great ideas and excellent pics!

My first question is if you know of any drawings that show the details of the hole spacings/dimensions for the overhead rack. I can try to measure it and draw it out myself, but would prefer official specs since I am going to hand this part off to a fabricator. He'll be using aluminum (trying to keep weight down), so my next question is if you'd have recommendations for specs on aluminum stock.

Keeping an eye on your project...best of luck!

DC
 

dcarteaux

Wild Butch
Did you ever consider an inverter-style generator with 12 vdc outlets? If you did and chose otherwise, what considerations were there?

I am looking at the Champion 3100w Inverter generator - 120vac and 12vdc outlets - with remote start (convenient for kicking in that electric blanket when it gets really cold at night). I suspect that those 12vdc outlets would provide enough juice for most DC applications.
 

JPShooter

Adventurer
I would also like to know where you purchased the LP bottle mounts. Keep up the good work on your trailer build. I'm torn whether to get a trailer like yours or to build one from scratch. I have the tools to do it, but wondering if an M1101/2 would be a better choice.



To all who asked about the bottle racks.

First, I apologize as winter came, the trailer went to the back of the barn and I've been off to other things.

Here's the link I ordered the racks from:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OCDRB94/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

JPShooter

Adventurer
Your project is very much like mine, though I am just beginning. Thanks for the great ideas and excellent pics!

My first question is if you know of any drawings that show the details of the hole spacings/dimensions for the overhead rack. I can try to measure it and draw it out myself, but would prefer official specs since I am going to hand this part off to a fabricator. He'll be using aluminum (trying to keep weight down), so my next question is if you'd have recommendations for specs on aluminum stock.

Keeping an eye on your project...best of luck!

DC

Sorry, but I don't know of any drawings with those details.

As to recommendations for aluminum stock I would not know where to start since that's not the direction I went for my research.

If I were to do this over I might consider learning to weld aluminum and doing it that way, but I figure my rack weighs a total of 175 lbs. It's not inconsequential for sure, but on a rig this size and overall weight I'm not sure the effort and added expense would be worth it. Of course those considerations are going to be different for each of us.

Good luck with your project! It's a lot of fun :)
 

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