My Overland preparation

[LUKEY]

wow thanks for all the replies guys, Much appreciated

The Wheels have been replaced with cooper STT's at the moment, I got them at a steal but as most say for looks more than anything, the BFG's were getting old and a little hard these are 265 75 16's

I will still have 5 spare rims, either weller style or modular as I have both!, 10 rims in total lol

I plan to get a set of 235 85 16 AT's for the trips, as you have said, Mud terrain is rarely needed, especially as I am driving to morroco lol

The twin wheel carrier Idea is scrapped, obviously a silly idea, spose there has to be a reason why it hast been done before lol

Upon checking my rear crossmember it appears I will need to replace this and weld up the back of the chassis, the previous owner obviously painted over it all with alot of waxoil!

So I have decided to get a 1/4 TD5 rear chassis, weld it on and all the mounts will be there for the extra TD5 tank :wings::wings: so thats next on my list

A question for you though, to me this sounds a little unsafe but a friend of mine has given me a gas powered Fridge, its an old electrolux, runs off the red bottle gas

It has a little exhaust pipe that would need to run outside and it seems to have a little flame at the bottom?

Do you think its safe enough to use??

I personally Dont think it is but what do you think?

Will I need to pay hundreds of pounds for an engel

 

[Nonimouse]

The gas powered fridges are an 'Absorbtion' type whereas something like the Engel uses a compressor. The latter is more efficient. Having said that the 'Absorbtion' fridges are okay. The use gas like it's going out of style. Carrying Gas in a vehicle is illegal in the UK and EU unless it is in a box sealed to the inside of the vehicle and vented to the outside of the vehicle. If you carry gas on the outside in the UK or EU it must be in a cage or container that is crash resistant... However in the UK nothing wil happen if you break these rules unless you have an accident. The French are in a funny mood at th emoment and are stopping folk for anything. What you have is a caravan fridge - if it was me I would use a cheap electric cool box, backed up with some freezer blocks until you can afford a Waeco or an Engle. Throw in a decent deep cycle liesur battery to run it - Numax are the best VFM

Cooper SST - great tyre. They were cr&p then the manufacturers started testing in Australia and they listened to the results! 265/75x16 as beloved of every electricity board in the UK. It's a good size - especially when it's cheap!

As I said before, don't rule out some MT's. Morocco actually has a lot of mud! Out of the summer in the Atlas is interesting. Thanks to EU laws on tyre tread things have changed from the classic MT. In fact tyres have changed a huge amount. The RT03 (mentioned before) is actually a trye that genuinely deals with ALL terrains to high level.

When you get the TD5 rear section, get the towing area beefed up - it's weak. Also make sure you welder understands just how strong it needs to be. Prior to welding on get the bulk of it bead blasted and then go to town on the paint _ obviously no the bits you are welding!

 

[LUKEY]

I have scrapped the Gas fridge Idea, it did come out of a caravan, has a chimney and to be honest I dont fancy cutting holes in my body tub, nor do I like the idea of having a flame constantly on and gas connected up whilst bumping about offroad!

Anyway New Tyres :victory:

I will eventually stick them on the wellers I have, but they will also be blackto go with the new colour scheme :victory:

Going to have a go at making these up for the water cans, one will be used for a tap that goes on the back door

Also sorted out the wood ready for the trial making of my fake floor and draws in the back and also sourced a small little safe that I will bolt/weld somewhere to keep passports, driving licenses etc :victory:

Next Job is the Cubby box, I can then get all these spotlights wired in along with the CB radio, CD player etc etc

Luke

 

[Nonimouse]

I've got a brand new flat steel/powdercoated Bearmach Jerry can rack for sale on other forums. It's the type that bolt into the drop of the rear tub. It's up for 15 quid if you want it - I'll take it to Stoneleigh or can get it relayed if you want it.

Can I make a suggestion with the lights. Temporarily wire them up. Go out for a drive in the dark and see just how useful they really are... It'll also make you add 'Paint Bonnet in Black Board Paint' to your list

Like the tryes and wheel combo by the way - nice choice

 

[LUKEY]

I mainly have the lights for the looks :wings::wings: but the bonnet going black is already on the LONG list of stuff to do, Im, painting the whole truck a satin/matt gun metal grey and the alloy wing tops will be black and the bonnet alloy will be to, however I have a sneaky plan, I intend to cover some fiberboard with rubber matting, like the chequer plate finish, that wayi wont be slipping off it all the time and it will be useful lol

as for the Jerry can Holder's Ill pas, but thanks anyway mate, only need one for the water carrier as I am fitting twin fuel tanks underneath :wings::wings:

 

[LUKEY]

This weekend I have been fitting new brakes, decided against the disc brake rear axle as its unnecessary expense so I bought Mintex rear shoes and front Pads, Only fitted one yesterday as I found a burst brake cylinder and needed to find a replacement, I did so its full steam ahead today :victory:

Looking at galvanised chassis's atm as mine is on its way out needs a rear 1/4 chassis atleast so may aswell start fresh!, my mind would be at rest once Ive rebuilt it, all new bolts with copper grease etc so if anything was to break whilst in another country atleast I wont have the problem of rusty solid bolts!

Once its done its almost a leave it and never worry about it again Job, It will outlast me thats for sure, that along with a galvenised chassis and doors that have the frame work galvenised, it will never rust again lol :wings::wings:

 

[Snagger]

Make sure you take plenty of rust prevention action on the bulkhead during any rebuild as they are as bad, if not worse than, the chassis. Likewise the door frames.

One water can is fine for regular camping and minor expeditions close to civilisation, but for desert trips you need at least two cans - firstly in case one leaks, you will have a back-up, and secondly to have enough water to allow for a vehicle coolant leak as well as for your own consumption. Since I don't have any plans for the more extreme trips, I can get away with just the once can. Personally, I favour the UK MoD cans over just about anything else on the market, especially fitted tanks - they tough, cheap and mould/algal resistant (they're black to keep the inside dark, which prevents growth of most nasties) and are easily cleaned, they have the big and small spouts so you can pour accurately or quickly as needed, are easy to replace, need no servicing and are easy to fit. Unlike fitted tanks, cans can be carried to a convenient tap for filling and can be carried to a cooking or washing area for use or poured directly into an engine's coolant system or onto a fire... way better than tanks which have none of that ease of use.

 

[LUKEY]

cheers, I intend to get the MOD Ones, lovely and cheap

As for the chassis, doors, bulkhead and anything else I will get galvanised, the chassis will be filled with waxoil just in case, likewise with the doors too, the bulkhead as well

Stainless Bolts will be used through out just to make thing easy if things were to do wrong in the bush

Brakes failed today, the cylinder I got was from a series and didn't fit, well just the pipe didn't fit, will go down to local shop tomorrow and swap them over

 

[Snagger]

Be careful with the stainless fixings - they cause worse electrolytic corrosion in aluminium than mild steel, and the least corrosive to ali is zinc plated steel. Copper grease helps, of course, as does separating steel and aluminium with plastic washers, neoprene pads and so on. Make sure that any safety critical bolts (suspension, steering, body mounts, seat belt brackets and so on) are up to the strength grade - some grades of stainless are brittle.

I think the rear cylinder you need is the same as the late SIII 109 metric type, but most SIIIs were built before LR went metric and thus have Imperial or BSP threads.

 

[Nonimouse]

Nick's got a good point about the SS bolts. I recently serviced a winch fixed to the bumper with SS bolts - thank god the bloke never used it

Worth bearing in mind that galvanised chassis don't last for ever - in fact unless looked after they last for not a lot longer than a not galvanised chassis. Galv is just a coating - and unlike paint it's sacrificial.

IF you allowed for the cost of the chassis and then allowed for the cost of a good welder, some steel and the rent of a dry workshop - that's a lot of work. Fitting a galv chassis only starts at the cost of the chassis.

This vehicle is your first 90, it's your first overland motor. All your expaectations will change after your first vehicle based long distance overland journey. As time goes by you will also find your requirements change - big time!

Just get this one reliable - weld on a 1/4 chassis. Don't bother with the TD5 rear quarter. Carry some jerry cans. Service the hell out of it. Get some basic kit. Then go out and drive to somewhere interesting.

If you like it, then look to change stuff. Most likely you'll sell the 90 and buy a 3 door 110, then go further.

 

[LUKEY]

Cheers for the reply's guys, My truck is for keeping, my first car etc hence why I want to build it exactly how I want it, No SS bolts will be used on the suspension etc, I saw a friends trailing arm bolt shear off on a little three wheeler that only comes out on weekends :Wow1::Wow1:

As for the 110, that will be in the future, a loong time away as I dont plan having Kids anytime soon so will only need enough kit for me and the Girlfriend :victory:

Im too young to afford the insurance on a 2002 and newer landrover so I have to stick to older ones, and a van is out the question due to the London Low emission Zone!! which I am annoyed about so will only be able to have a 110 5 door, and perhaps convert it to 3 door in the back but keep the doors!

Before this is all done though, a fair few miles will be clocked up on my europe trip early next year :wings::wings: the rebuild will take place next year sometime as its going to take a fair while to collect all the bits I need to do the restoration lol

 

[Nonimouse]

What I meant was, wait a bit until you know really know what you need not what you want.

It's taken me the best part of 30 years, almost 50 countries, 4 continents, 11 different types of vehicle (and about 30 different vehicles); over many 100's of 1000's of miles to work out what I need and I'm still having second thoughts

I'm even thinking of buying an 80series just to balance the scales

 

[LUKEY]

Too right Nomnimouse, The truck will be rebuilt as standard for the moment, roofrack will stay, as will a few other bits and pieces too, once I start overlanding I can find out what things I need, would like, and where to store them, have had a few decent Idea's which will be going on as they are useful to me even day to day use like an awning and fake floor with draws in, all the stuff bounces about in the back and gets rather irritating at times!

Getting the silly things like all the rattles sorted out, making sure the windows are reliable and dont fall off the runner's, especially when you meet your boss's boss and I have to faff around for 5 minutes fixing it! all the electrics work fine, that the doors dont leak (well not as bad as they do know lol) are my main priority's, the axles dont leak, Brakes are okay etc, new UJ for peace of mind as although they are fine atm they may go in the middle of nowhere and for all I now they could be originals from new, the Brake cylinder's were!

The suspension is Shot, so thats my next project to sort what Im getting, will go for Originals I am thinking, no need for fancy stuff really, Would like longer shocks for better articulation but as I have said OEM will most likely be best

Ohh and on the Plus side, I have Just bought a new Galvanised chassis, for only a few hundred quid more than a rear 1/4 chassis, been treated in Morden solution, etch primed 4 times and painted 4 times :wings::wings: Well Happy With that, I havea Bulkhead on order from a mate, so its all systems go, MOT runs out in November so will get it through its next MOT use over the winter and then Get going on it early next year :wings:

 

[LUKEY]

Been quite a while since I updated my thread, ive picked up my new chassis, and given it a few more coats of satin black paint, ordered new bushes and got myself NOS springs, collected 99% of the wood to build the storage, decided on the colour Im going to paint it, been slowly rubbing down the body work and filling in odd dents etc ready for the respray

Started restoring my weller wheels one at a time, cleaned it up, repainted in satin black and fit my MT's to them

Ordered new seals for the axles ready and also bought a new exhaust system

Plan is to collect most of the parts I need then crack on after my euro trip early next year and rebuild it :sombrero:

Also trying to find a garage I can hire to do the work in as if not Im working on the front drive

Havent really got any pictures as most of it looks the same as its preparation

 

[tacr2man]

You have been getting some pretty good advice , just going to add my 2 cents worth, having used various quantities of solihull product since 1967 in various places.
109/110 the smallest you can go as an expedition vehicle for two that does not greatly limit you with its load capacity .
spotlights above windscreen , waste of time and money , virtually unusable other than a scene light when things have gone pearshaped.
on a coilsprung landy twin standard shocks will greatly outperform and outlast single fancy ones.
RTT very usable on a lwb , and you should not put anything else pretty much up there anyhow. Anti roll bars a really good option on a lwb .
I designed my own and got it made , with option to have a ground level extension , never left a tent as things go missing ,
high level tent has a lot of advantages over ground level IMHO
Tyres size , as mentioned 750r16 or equivalent eg 235/85r16 or 265/75r16 (near enough) be very careful with michelin , they dont always work well with any other make.
EX wd black plastic jerrycans for water excellent bit of kit , much better than a built in tank , many reasons. Also you can buy plastic shower rose and plumbing elbow etc and screw straight onto can stick on roof rack and have a nice shower , esp if sunny day has warmed them up , regulate flow using other filler orifice.

Maintain standard susp height , bushes will last years.
130/ FC rims will give you a bit better turning circle , allow better mounting of 235/ 265 tyres widen track for stability without spacers and still stay within standard wheel arches.
Diffs full synthetic gear oil (eg redline no connections) esp if wading as will not emulsify so will keep lubricating , if water contaminated will seperate if left to stand and can be decanted .
good quality unit for air supply to allow easy tyre pressure adjustment so you dont mind adjusting when you should.
If later type grease "lubed" axles mod back to early oil type , I prefer the odd oil leak to make them last much longer, also leak usually will tell you before bearing collapses.
Good move on the galv chassis, plus anything else as it will last far longer, dont clean off any blobs drips as they will migrate to sacrifice.

As mentioned in europe as well as a bigger and bigger part of world landrover is overkill a commercial vehicle makes more sense , but then if we had it would we drive land:safari-rig::wings:rovers
the estate 110/109 has a lot of benefits over 3 door , eg for access , carrying minder in some places .
spare wheels 2 tubeless with kit , one on bonnet , one on rear door , take trim off rear door and plate weld frame (mig) , make sure hinges aand dovetail adjusted correct, will last years esp if off early landy eg 109 or 90/110 (stronger) as is bonnet . Roof rack weld plate on feet to join all legs and spreadload along whole length of gutter.
Hope some of the above will be of help

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