My Overland Trailer Build

[bobwohlers]

To begin my project, I shopped and shopped for the right trailer tub, lid, and frame from which to build my overland trailer. Whether the trailer had a suspension, axle, wheels and tires on it was of no consequence to me as I was willing to add a suspension to the trailer myself. Also, I wanted a new trailer, not a used military model.

My objective was to let a trailer manufacturer do the hard fit and finish work of welding the tub, lid and frame, plus painting it to match my vehicle. If I found all of this from one manufacturer, plus a suspension and axle set up that is simple and straight forward, I'd buy it. I did not want a proprietary-style suspension system (with airbags, etc., etc.). I wanted a trailer with leaf springs, perches, solid axle, and shocks that I could get in practically any remote location.

Further, I wanted to add all the customization to the trailer myself, to make it “my” overland trailer. I figured that this approach would not only be fun, but I could make the trailer “I” wanted at a good price-point.

With this approach in mind, I looked at practically all the new trailers on the market. A couple of manufacturers would not even sell me a “blank” trailer without all the “goodies” on it. They were great trailers, but those manufacturers simply didn't fit my approach. Of those manufacturers that would sell me a relatively “blank” trailer, I started researching their craftsmanship, and builds. Some of these trailers I saw at off-road shows, others I actually went to the factory to meet the owners and see how they build their trailers. Of all I examined, I went with Sierra 4X4 Trailers. Now, it took me a while to get my trailer from this small manufacturer, but I was patient, knowing he was essentially a one-man shop. Sierra 4X4 makes a solid trailer; it's a quality product. I've now owned mine for 3 years and put it through hell; no problems at all.

Now for my build:

• Sierra 4X4 frame, tub, lid, axle, and suspension
• 35” Tires to match tug vehicle
• Max Coupler for trailer hitch
• Uhaul Hitch extension (between tug vehicle and Max Coupler; allows rear tug vehicle tailgate to be opened)
• Electrical connection to tug vehicle via: 4 gauge wiring, Anderson PowerPoles, IBS Intelligent Battery System (went with IBS so solar system would charge tug vehicle battery also)
• Steel nose-box from Harbor Freight (1/4th the price of nose-boxes from the trailer manufacturers; but very solid and it's locking)
• In the nose-box: Werker AGM 100AH battery in battery box, ProStar-15 solar controller, RV 12-volt water pump, assorted circuitry, fuses, 2 marine grade cigarette outlets, outlet for solar panel wires
• Two 5 liter Gas Cans
• 20 gallon Ronco exterior water container with manual hand pump; 20 gallon Ronco water container on interior of trailer (both water containers are plumbed together with RV 12-volt water pump)
• Propane Bottle with locking support
• Rhino Racks to support ARB Simpson III roof top tent
• One, 135 Watt Kyocera Solar Panel (strapped under tent; to sit on top of trailer lid, between Rhino Racks)
• “Kitchen” Table (also mounted under ARB tent, on top of solar panel; strapped down with solar panel; panel has a stand build on the back so it can rest at an angle on the ground)
• Kitchen Box – Pelican IM2975 Storm Case mounted on custom fabricated trailer “tail gate”
• Custom folding table off the backend of kitchen box tail gate
• ARB Touring Awning – mounted on custom fabricated aluminum support, and bolted to Rhino Racks
• Miscellaneous boxes and fluid containers (water, motor oil, coolant, gear oil) mounted on trailer nerf bars on both sides of wheel fenders

 

[4S50]

Very nice! I am curious what your loaded to camp weight is?

 

[bobwohlers]

Very nice! I am curious what your loaded to camp weight is?

The trailer is heavy with a huge dose of convenience and longevity in the backcountry. Kidding... all sarcasm aside, I'm not really sure now that I have the second water tank added and kitchen box/tail gate (although all the kitchen "stuff" went with me anyway, just not arranged as such). I do need to take the trailer to my local truck scales here in town. That said, my 2013 Rubicon tows it quickly down the highway, and I've never had an issue with it on steep hills off-road.

Here's some added photos of my kitchen box build. (Hat tip to other, similar builds online and to the great guys at AT since I viewed (stole ideas from) their "box" at the recent Overland Expo. Mine is not as "nice" as AT's (and who can build to their quality anyway), but it is VERY hardy and works perfectly. Plus, I had the fun of fabricating it myself. Truth be told, the pieces/parts of the Kitchen Box build wasn't much less that what AT wanted for theirs.


Here's the rear tail gate after welding.


Like others, I use hardy heim joints to mount the rear tail gate.


Latch and rubber bumpers to hold gate secure. (Not a rattle in the house!)


Prior to attaching Pelican Box.


Box attached to tail gate.


One of MULTIPLE bolt points of tail gate to box.


On the bottom of the Pelican Box are the "inserts" for the rolling wheels and towing handle I removed from the box itself. I used these "inserts" to run angle iron into, then welded the iron to the tail gate. Essentially, the angle iron adds support to the Pelican Box, along with all the bolts I used through the Pelican Box itself. On the inside of the box, I used flat aluminum to run the bolts through and help with support.


On the backside of the Pelican Box, I build a fold-down table that can be used when the Kitchen Box is swung open to it's usable position.

 

[bobwohlers]

Here are a few other photos, detailing my build. If you have questions, ask. I love talking trailers and overlanding!


Here's my nose box with all the electrics. Basically I attached the solar controller, circuits, switches, and fuses to the top of the large battery box. It seemed like a great place to bolt down all the pieces/parts needed to be secured. The box also contains an RV water pump, 110 inverter, and it holds my solar panel cables.


Don't go cheap on your slides for your camp stove. Get a good set of $100+ Hettich Heavy Duty Locking Drawer Slides. I then fabricated the stove plywood and varnished; then capped with aluminum edging.


Here's a look at my water tanks - one outside with manual pump, and one inside the trailer; both plumbed together. Both water tanks utilize the RV water pump in the nose box. The RV pump outlets go to the kitchen and to the tankless hot water shower via a standard water hose. Again, taking the simple way forward (and easy to replace), many of the components on the trailer are secured with ratchet straps - gas cans, 2-liter fluid cans, water tanks, and solar panel/kitchen table.

 

[60Dan]

Pleased to hear the Storm case worked out for you too!

Trailer came out very nice

 

[bobwohlers]

Pleased to hear the Storm case worked out for you too!

Trailer came out very nice

Thanks Dan... I did see your build some time ago here on the Portal - very, very nice build. Seeing the AT Kitchen Box at Overland Expo this year, really convinced me to build one. Makes "trailer life" so much easier; ARB Fridge in the back of the Jeep, and the kitchen box makes food prep a snap. Also, as an underwater photographer, I had a used Pelican Storm case I use to tote an old video housing around. Now that my housings and cameras are smaller, I no longer needed that large of a case - so hence it became my kitchen box.