Most lead-acid bstteries are basically the same chemistry experiment in a plastic box and charge exactly the same.
But there are a few exceptions...
If the manufacturer made a sloshy battery with removable caps (FLA), they often recommend a bit lower charge voltage (i.e., 14.4v) to minimize water loss. But the same 14.7v-14.8v often recommended for sealed batteries with fiberglass mats between the plates (AGM) will actually charge the FLA battery better and faster and keep it healthier...but will use more water and will need to be topped off more often.
If they made a sealed battery with a gelling agent added to the electrolyte (GEL), they often recommend not to exceed 14.2v as sustained heating can break down the gelling agent.
If you set the chargers to the recommended specs for the FLA GC batteries, it won't hurt a FLA or AGM engine battery. But it might be above the recommended voltage for a GEL engine battery.
It might also be a bit below the recommended voltage for an AGM engine battery...which is pretty much irrelevant since the engine battery is almost never drawn down enough to notice and is almost always fully charged, so any little extra topoff from the solar, or inverter/charger won't really make any difference.
As long as they are roughly the same in terms of required charge voltage (FLA and AGM are, GEL isn't), it's good to go.
Different age, type, size, etc. is irrelevant if they are only tied during charging.
One small detail on inverters. Consider whether you need a low frequency/big iron inverter or whether the high frequency Xantrax will be adequate.
This is advertising, but the basic information is correct.
Inversion Methods Explained: High Frequency vs Low Frequency | Magnum Dimensions
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202, 221 whatever it takes! (Think back to the Michael Keeton movie "Mr. mom). I really had no idea there were different types. I bought the Xantrex because of a little reading and a few youtube RV videos, ease of installation. I got a good deal on it through a friend who works at a car dealership with an RV dept. We will only be using it to run a TV, and charge phones. I only have 2- 110 volt lights in the truck.
a disconnect switch is advisable, for all energy sources that cant be easily unplugged (battery, fixed solar).. that way you can work on electrical system without it being energized.. or storing it long term w/out monitoring.
This also lets you plug in and disconnect those energized sources w/out sparking.. without a disconnect switch if you replace batteries you'll get a spark when you hook cables back up, and then cycle on/of whatevers powered real fast while you tighten up the lugs.. dropping all loads before dealing with live wiring is generally safer for the loads, the source and you.. with Solar you typically want to hook up in a certain order so your not screwing down bare live wires.
Thanks. Just starting the wiring into the fuse box etc.It can be on the ground side as well, but general practice is to place the switch before all loads/sources. Though on boats there are often "24 hr" critical loads which are not switched (radio, bilge pump etc).