My solar plan: on the right track?

[camper101]

I’m adding a portable solar setup for my camper, and wondering if you’d take a glance to see if anything here looks crazy?

The solar is for rare trips when we stay in one place for a few days. We run a small furnace (2 amps if that, but this is crucial in the winter), LED lights, and some recharging of phones/computers.


My main concerns are:

1. Can I use butt connectors and/or plugs to make connections (mostly to the inline fuse and plug)?
2. Is it OK to have the 8AWG wire for most of the length, and then go to 10 AWG for the inline fuses and the plug?
3. I don't want to start a fire...

Here’s what I’ve got in mind, from panels to battery:

• 100W panel with MC4 connectors
• 8AWG wire (20 ft) to charge controller
• More MC4 connectors to make the panels and wiring portable/removable
• A 15 Amp inline fuse (10 AWG wire) separates the panels from charge controller
• Butt connectors are used for connecting fuses, etc (I don’t know how to solder, I’ve heard it’s easy but prefer not to unless that’s disastrous)
• 20 Amp charge controller (probably overkill but I could grow into it)
• 8AWG wire to the battery (maybe 2 feet)
• Another 15 amp inline fuse between charge controller and battery
• Trolling motor plug to completely disconnect the system from the battery and avoid having any hot metal ends bouncing around when the solar is disconnected (that’s 95% of the time, and it's hard to get to the battery)
• Connect to the battery using ring terminals

Thank you for any ideas you have.

 

[G35Vortec454]

10ga is plenty for both panels and battery wiring, even if you triple your panels. As for fuse ratings use one based on your actual simultaneous amp draw. Butt connectors crimped properly and sealed should work.

How are you going to fully charge your battery? Make sure you use the right size cable to charge it, based on the charger peak capacity.

 

[camper101]

Thanks, it seemed like #8 was a bit much, but I read the HandyBob stuff everybody refers to and I just figured it might not hurt to go a little big. Hopefully the only drawback is an extra $20 or so...

If I understand the question: The battery is fully charged (and installed) now, and it gets re-charged while the truck is running. But occasionally I'll stay put for a few days, so I'm adding solar to keep the heater running during those trips.

Regarding fuses, the panel says "Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 5.29 A" so it sounds like I could go down a bit to be safe. They also say "Maximum Series Fuse Rating: 15A".

Thanks again.

 

[G35Vortec454]

So if your alternator will be charging the battery, and your altenator can push for example 80A amps extra (ie above your vehicle's electric needs), then use a cable appropriate for that, in this case a 6ga cable is called for.

 

[camper101]

I should mention that I'm only adding solar at this point, and that the battery/isolator setup was already installed previously (by somebody I trust, who works for the manufacturer - so I trust that he used whatever is needed to charge the battery from the alternator).

So given that I'm just adding wiring to charge from solar, I'd assume I'm still good with 8 AWG wire and I can ignore the setup coming from the alternator/isolator? Please correct me if not.

Thanks again. This isn't something I'd call myself an expert on...

 

[G35Vortec454]

Then you're good with your plan. Just make sure you use UV rated cables for your panel wiring.

 

[camper101]

Good to hear. Thanks for taking a look at this with me.

The cables are UV resistant (they're made for solar, which I figured was a better idea than trying to make up my own MC4 connections).