Need Advice: '21 F150 XLT mods (and woes)

[dbhost]

Oops. Moot.... saw the original post.

Just FWIW, at least on the '04-'08 F150 with the 2.5" lift, SOME lifts don't give you the actual 2.5". I.E. my Rancho Quicklift 2.5 only gave me 1.75", but I also have a winch and brush guard... This got fixed with a set of Moog HD coils in the struts to keep the nose from getting mooshed down. Basically teh Quicklift fits the standard, and HD package F150 but to keep the payload package you need to swap the springs... Go figure.

Offset of your rims is also an issue.

At least on the earlier models, the plastic skirt / air dam thing on the front bumper needs to be trimmed for 285s or it will rub. Just take a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a 45 degree slash cut from where it meets metal down trimming the corner plastic off. . I know on a brand new truck like that, you cringe thinking about trimming. It took me 10 years to be willing to do the inner fender / sheet metal trimming on my '04... Mind you, once the trimming was done, 35x12.50/17 MTs fit no problem no rubbing except in extreme situations. I am going down size to 285/70R17 to make the truck a bit more civilized. Completely avoid rub, and honestly, only give up 1" ground clearance. If I am that close to the edge, I will get myself in a bad way with that one inch or not...

Mind you. I am running Pro Comp 1089 17x9s so the offset is what does it... Tucked in a bit more and no problem but I would propbably rub on the sway bar...

Anyway, not sure what the dealer would be willing to do for you on the aftermarket stuff. Fox shocks are awesome, but you get what you get sometimes.... On the trimming. IF you have to do metal trimming, be absolutely certain it is being done right. In my case with steel, I absolutely insured it was fully clean and dry prior to starting the mod, made the cuts, and folds, then coated in liberal amounts of epoxy primer, then I used PTM duplicolor touch up paint to get the color right so it looks right at a casual glance. Oh and I didn't use the big hammer bash method for the fold, but rather used an air hammer to "adjust" the sheet metal over... Left a much better finished product IMHO...

Anyway, I am going long winded here. Let me leave this by saying, you may want to check with the F150 forums. There will be a bunch of folks over there that are well experienced with these trucks. And will tell you how best to make it work, but my suspicion due to the similarity between trucks and my experience with mine, is offset and trimming.....

 

[jadmt]

Who makes 285/75R17? I know 285/70R17 runs roughly 33x12. I can't imagine a 75 aspect ratio bringing that up to much over 34....

almost every tire maker that I know of makes that size.. I have run Toyos in that size in RT's and AT2's, as well as copper AT3 and ST Maxx's. they are right at 34's. in my first response to the OP I meant 285/75-18 not 17.

 

[dbhost]

almost every tire maker that I know of makes that size.. I have run Toyos in that size in RT's and AT2's, as well as copper AT3 and ST Maxx's. they are right at 34's. in my first response to the OP I meant 285/75-18 not 17.

Yeah, 285/75R18 would be right at around 34" for sure! Good update, thanks. ANd I retracted when I reread the OPs post. My bad... I have seen 285/70R17s all over the place, but mind you, last time I got that size was easily 15 years ago when I put my first set of tires on the F150... I guess I am out of the tire size loop...

Question for the OP... I see your bed rack, with the traction boards mounted. Do you have pics of the mount setup? I can't figure out how you are holding them on. I don't see any bracing and i t looks like just the tips of the boards where no mount holes are, are over the upright bars... Just wondering if you have some sort of crossbars on the other side on the outside or something...

 

[dylan.h.brown]

Yeah, 285/75R18 would be right at around 34" for sure! Good update, thanks. ANd I retracted when I reread the OPs post. My bad... I have seen 285/70R17s all over the place, but mind you, last time I got that size was easily 15 years ago when I put my first set of tires on the F150... I guess I am out of the tire size loop...

Question for the OP... I see your bed rack, with the traction boards mounted. Do you have pics of the mount setup? I can't figure out how you are holding them on. I don't see any bracing and i t looks like just the tips of the boards where no mount holes are, are over the upright bars... Just wondering if you have some sort of crossbars on the other side on the outside or something...

They're made by Yakima: https://yakima.com/products/recovery-track-mount

Super simple cam straps pulled against a cross bar. Pretty secure, but not perfect. I've never had them fall and if you mount them with the cam up, you can pull them tight easier. Tucks in out of the way, and I have a tonneau on there too. It's the Retrax pro and the latch is driver's side.

 

[Grassland]

I'm running RCI in aluminum and I'm happy with them.
No rust! Lightweight!

 

[Watt maker]

If it were me, I’d swap the wheels for ones with more positive offset, like the OEM wheels, and keep the taller tires. Even if it means sticking with OEM wheels. The wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods will thank you as well. As for skid plates, RCI makes some good ones. We run them on our 4runners and they’ve held up decent in the rocks.

 

[jbaucom]

I added the RCI steel transmission skid to the OE engine and transfer case skid plates. If the OE skid plates sustain too much damage, I'll replace them with RCI as well. I bought steel because it's cheaper. The OE skid plates were too cheap to pass up, and while they appear a bit on the flimsy side compared to aftermarket, unless you're really dragging them over rocks (or other immovable objects) they should do their job of deflecting objects and protecting the engine and transfer case. I added the transmission skid plate because that plastic transmission pan looked pretty vulnerable. It doesn't look like you have the OE skid plates (the transfer case plate is usually visible from the driver's side), so I'd get the full set from RCI, along with the studded fuel tank straps to add the fuel tank skid plate.

 

[dylan.h.brown]

I added the RCI steel transmission skid to the OE engine and transfer case skid plates. If the OE skid plates sustain too much damage, I'll replace them with RCI as well. I bought steel because it's cheaper. The OE skid plates were too cheap to pass up, and while they appear a bit on the flimsy side compared to aftermarket, unless you're really dragging them over rocks (or other immovable objects) they should do their job of deflecting objects and protecting the engine and transfer case. I added the transmission skid plate because that plastic transmission pan looked pretty vulnerable. It doesn't look like you have the OE skid plates (the transfer case plate is usually visible from the driver's side), so I'd get the full set from RCI, along with the studded fuel tank straps to add the fuel tank skid plate.

Thanks! Yeah, ordered the aluminum RCI -- full set. My thoughts on this build is to go as light as possible. With the 3.5cb, my thought I'd to keep those turbos from spinning up as much as possible (maximize mpg) — after all 90% of my driving is on pavement, so mpg is important to me.

In regards to people's advice on offset — I don't really understand how going more positive could fit larger tires. I always thought the opposite. The tires I'm taking off are rubbing on the backside of the wheel well on the frame, inside tire. More positive would push those tires closer to the body... How does that help fit bigger tires?

New to all of this -- all my past lifts, I stuck to reasonable tire sizes, as not to affect everything else (driveline, etc.).

 

[dylan.h.brown]

Super happy with my decision. Tested out the new setup on Hancock Pass, CO. Definitely wanted 34", but these 275/70r18s felt fine, despite the crazy neverending rocks. Ran them at 22psi, and only engaged the locker once. Also felt crazy comfortable at speed on washboards too.

 

[ITTOG]

Do you know what size the stock Raptor tires are? I think they run 17" rims, but curious about tires.

LT315/70R17. The specific tire is a load range C BFGoodrich KO2.

Not sure how I missed this but I could have helped answer some questions. I have raptor take offs along with the Fox 2.5's. I could not fit the raptor takeoffs without rubbing so I had to downsize to a 285/75r17. I also had to remove the crashbars for them to fit. Cutoff the front and unbolted the rear.


The new look was worth it though.


For the fox settings I made my low speed setting on the softest possible and my high speed setting in the middle.

I look forward to following your build. Nice looking truck.

 

[dylan.h.brown]

Not sure how I missed this but I could have helped answer some questions. I have raptor take offs along with the Fox 2.5's. I could not fit the raptor takeoffs without rubbing so I had to downsize to a 285/75r17. I also had to remove the crashbars for them to fit. Cutoff the front and unbolted the rear.
View attachment 681717

The new look was worth it though.
View attachment 681718

For the fox settings I made my low speed setting on the softest possible and my high speed setting in the middle.

I look forward to following your build. Nice looking truck.

The dealership's shop boys were convinced true 34" (metric 285/75r18) would fit w/ mild offset. 2021 now has wider axles (and I think the crashbars are different too), so this wasn't the case w/o modding. So yeah, Raptor takeoffs should have fit pre-2021 w/ the lift I put on. I could have pulled the crashbars, but ultimately, I want plenty of room for maxed articulation w/o rubbing, while also accounting for mud buildup etc. Even dropping down 1.5" on the tires size, when I'm fully maxed in my turn, I'm barely clearing by a 1/4" on the rear crash bar.

After this last weekend though... I'm very happy w/ my decision, and I think the truck looks just about right. I'll keep my eyes peeled for some good rock sliders, and we'll see how the winter fares w/ blasting grit and mag choride before I drop another pile of cash on fenders (my tire tread is sticking past the body by about 1/4"). I have full RCI skid plate protection ordered....

 

[Grassland]

Any chance for a head on or tail on picture of the truck with wheels straight just to see the tire poke?

 

[dylan.h.brown]

Any chance for a head on or tail on picture of the truck with wheels straight just to see the tire poke?

I don't have a photo, but here's a video.
View attachment VID-20210913-WA0002.mp4

 

[Grassland]

Thanks!

So quick math is your offset has the wheel out 2.2" further than stock. Realistically an aftermarket wheel offset slightly positive would negate the exposure of tread past the wheel well.

In your opinion under articulation of your wheel was say 1"-2.2" inwards, would your current tires clear everything?

 

[dylan.h.brown]

Thanks!

So quick math is your offset has the wheel out 2.2" further than stock. Realistically an aftermarket wheel offset slightly positive would negate the exposure of tread past the wheel well.

In your opinion under articulation of your wheel was say 1"-2.2" inwards, would your current tires clear everything?

Yes, I would say so. The 34s I took off weren't rubbing horribly, just right before maxed in reverse and when compressing. Now there's ample room with these smaller tires ... the closest parts they get to are the rear body trim (firewall too) and crash bars.

On these 275/70r18 Open Country tires, the tread is sticking out about 1/2"-1/4" (need to measure), but the sidewalk continues out further, making it seem like it's offset more than it is. I was worried I would spray my side down w grid and mud, but so far, it's been very mild. Winter will tell if fenders or new wheels are needed.