Need Advice: Modifications needed for hauling a camper?

[NorthernWoodsman]

Asking for a friend.... My friend Sophia has her own business and plans to take it on the road soon. She's been looking for an older F250-F350 Powerstroke diesel with plans to haul a camper around the country. I've been helping her with the truck purchase, but where I fall short on knowledge is in the hauling of a camper.

Her plans include using a hard-sided slide in camper. The photos I saw of the one she is considering are of an older model that extends beyond the bed by about a foot to a foot and half. Anyways, I'm concerned for her as this is her first time operating a rig this big and hauling a camper and I want to be sure she's safe doing it. This is also research as I have been considering do the same soon myself, but with a pop-up camper. So this is where you come in-

What modifications, if any, should she do in order to haul a camper?
Added leaf in the rear springs?
Air bags?
What about the front suspension? Brakes?

Anything you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I want to be sure to put her on the right path so she's successful in her business venture.

Thanks in advance!

 

[IdaSHO]

In order to answer your questions correctly and not simply provide general advice, you will need to provide more info with regards to suspension and overall safety.


Need to know model specific truck year, cab configuration, bed length, 4x2 or 4x4

And some specs on the camper will be needed as well. Make and model are a start, but ultimately actual dry weight is what you need to know.


Bottom line, you need to know the capacity of the truck, and the weight of the camper.


Beyond that, no major modifications should need to be made.
Assuming the brakes are in good working order, no need to even think about them.
And basic traditional slide in camper tie downs are in order to mount the camper and keep it in the bed.
google TORKLIFT to get you started.

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Right now she is looking at older (1994-2001) F250 and F350, 4x4, extra or crew cab, single rear wheel model trucks. She has not bought a camper yet, I just saw the photo of one she is seriously considering.

I highly doubt she is going to know the weight of the camper unless the PO offers that info. I will suggest she inquire about that though. Thanks for the tip.

I have advised her about brakes, as well as things like ball joints, tie rod ends, etc... I've been pushing her to make sure she gets the truck inspected and finds one with good maintenance records.

Camper tie downs, check. I knew that, just forgot. Thanks for that reminder.

Once she buys a truck, and decides on a camper I can get more details, but until then, was just trying to find out what she may be in store for.

 

[IdaSHO]

Something to keep in mind is going from extra cab to crew cab robs you of a good deal of payload due to the extra weight.


But generally F250s and F350s single rear wheel that vintage have a payload of 2000-2500lbs

They will handle a LOT more.... but thats neither here nor there.


So ideally, the camper weight should be kept at less than 3000lbs wet and loaded.

Do not be surprised at camper weights when you start asking around.

An average run of the mill hardside camper is HEAVY, especially if it is a 10'+ camper as you describe (extending beyond bed)

 

[NorthernWoodsman]

Didn't realize that about extra cab vs crew cab. A quick search on two separate sites showed that the payload though on a 1995 and 1996 F250 with the 7.5 gas motor extra cab is 3,500#, not the 2-2,500 you mentioned though. Is this due to the gas motor vs the diesel?

As for campers, my experience has been with pop-ups for an import truck which typically weigh in around 7-900# from what I've seen. Good to know about the weight loaded, which was a concern I wanted to address with her before she loads up her gear for the road.

 

[IdaSHO]

Yes, the diesel weighs a lot more.

Payload "specs" mean very little though.

ACTUAL payload is determined by max GVWR and weight of the actual truck.


Most 4x4 trucks in single rear wheel config of that era have a max GVWR of 8800lbs

So take that, and subtract actual weight of the truck with full tanks of fuel and passengers and you have your payload.

Most pickups that era with the 7.3 Powerstroke are 6500-7000lb trucks.

 

[Lance990]

My truck is a 1997 F350 with the 7.5L gas motor. It is 2WD and a dually with the factory camper package and a LSD with 4.10 gears. My payload capacity is the maximum offered that year at 4,587 lbs. The actual truck weight with fuel and passengers is 6,200 lbs. My GVWR is 10,000 lbs which means I can haul a 3,800 lbs camper (which is the wet weight of my Lance 990). It all adds up pretty quickly.

The only mods I have made to the truck are Rancho 9000 shocks, Happijac tie downs and Torklift Stable Loads (upper). The truck handles the camper just fine without any issues.

If she doesn't plan to do any off-roading, she might want to consider a 2WD truck with a gas motor. The payload capacity will be higher because the diesels are heavy and the 4x4 suspension weight carrying capacity will be less.

What is the brand name of the camper? If it is a Lance you can get detailed specs on size and weight from lancecamper.com.

 

[boxcar1]

First: Make sure what ever your friend decides to buy. Take it to a mechanic and have it fully checked out before purchasing......
The year range Ford she is looking for has some definite advantages but some well known problem spots as well.
If she plans to travel year round she wants an F-350 standard cab 4wd, Gas or diesel with manual hubs.
Manual transmission ( if she's comfortable with it ) If she must have an automatic be careful.
Fords of that era run an E-4-OD trans that is notorious for problems. Have it checked out .......
The super cab has the steering radios of a school bus. The standard cab is nice and tight.
The good news is: that If she decides on a diesel the 7.3 is the best that Ford ever offered. The bad news is : you can't buy good fuel for it any more.
Gas options are the venerable 460 or the 351. Both will do the job fine.
In an F-350 the 351 is going to be hard to find.
Camper mounts and suspension:
Belly mount the camper. ( true frame mounts ) Don't mount to the bed.
The F-250 nor F-350 will need no suspension aids unless the camper is extremely heavy. Best springs in the business.
With an older rig it would probably be a good idea to replace the shocks with new gas shocks and have the rig re bushed with all new bushings. I'd have the brakes looked at as well.
Then be very picky when purchasing an old used camper.
Good luck.

I hauled a 9" Conny on a 95 Ford for years.

 

[IdaSHO]

For what its worth...

Ill never own a standard cab ever again. Been there, done that.

Im not even that tall (6') and I could never get comfortable driving or riding shotgun.
You cannot even tilt the seats back its so tight.
And there is no place to put anything.

Extended cab is much more comfortable, and provides some good cargo space for the cab for extended outings and foul weather.


As for the auto trans comment, the E40D will practically last forever with nothing in tow and just a slide in.
I currently have nearly 200k on mine, with no signs whatsoever of it giving up any time soon.
Heat is its only real enemy. So a large cooler helps, as does a temp gauge.
But buying used, make damn sure the trans gets checked out. The E40D is a 75-100k mile trans when worked as intended (towing)
And in my experience, keep it cool and it will last a LONG time. It's also more idiot proof than a manual.
Buying used this is especially important, as you never know how the PO drive and shifted the truck.

 

[Mundo4x4Casa]

The commonly held paradigm in buying a truck camper is to decide on the camper first. That way you can get a truck that has the capacity to safely haul the camper. Thousands have made this mistake and gone to extreme lengths to rectify the situation. Coming from your mini truck/pop up paradigm, there is a large gulf between yours and a full size truck and camper. The other paradigm shift comes with how long you expect to live and work in such a rig: The longer-the larger.

There are, of course, other questions to ask before a definitive decision can be make.
1. How long does the Madame plan on living in such a rig? Full time for a year? Five years? 6 weeks? The answer makes a big difference.
2. Where is she going to overnight? Motels? RV campgrounds? City/County/State Campgrounds? In front of friends' homes? Boon docking? National Parks? Urban? Suburban?
3. How much auto tech knowledge does she have? If not much, go for the simplest version of whatever you wind up with. If she is by herself, and without further info, I would jump right in and suggest getting a used 2WD, gas motor, automatic trans, Class B. They have a quick entry to the camper part without going outside; especially helpful in the city.
4. A diesel truck has a learning curve as to maintenance and care. The romance of that smoke belching, clacking oil burner wears off quickly.
5. Remember always: FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION. Get down on paper (or your computer screen) all the must haves for RV travel. Find what fits those parameters. This is our June 2003 camp in Western British Columbia during our 9k mile round trip to AK. Note the water, power, and TV cable hookups. Our Webber BBQ is on the table ready to cook some Salmon. This is our typical footprint while traveling long distance.

 

[JHa6av8r]

First, stop looking at 3/4 ton trucks and go directly to the 1 ton. I have a newer crew cab Chevy 3500 HD. Its payload is 4,200 lbs but it's rated carry at 3,158 lb camper by GM. As others have stated, the weight of hard-side campers wet and loaded with gear goes up pretty fast.

 

[IdaSHO]

The vintage tucks that the OP's friend is looking at, the only reason to avoid a 3/4 ton and only consider 1-tons is if a dually rear end is a consideration.

Everything else (sans the front axle if 4x4) is the same. Everything.

 

[boxcar1]

Idashow . The E4Od is the ( documented ) worst transmission that Ford ever offered in there product line . Just check the service stats. It's all available on line....
The 1 tone has larger brakes, and a heavier frame. It also sports a solid axle front end vs. the split beam of the 3/4 ton. There are actually quite a few differences.
As to the super cab vs. standard. I own both so I'm kind of on the fence here.
The standard has a larger payload and tighter steering and is shorter over all in length. All good things when hauling a camper.
The super cab has a tone more cab room ( which is handy ) a softer ride and reclining captains chairs, but as I stated before , has the steering radios of a school bus ( I'm not kidding it's terrible ) and is a longer over all truck.
I have hauled the same camper as pictured in my previous post on both rigs. I preferred the standard cab. It just drove better.

Found an old pic......

 

[Lance990]

I have 135k on my E4OD along with an auxiliary cooler and it pulls hard all day long. It does just fine loaded with my camper and is a strong transmission. I think you might be thinking about the AOD transmission. The E4OD is a heavy duty transmission and I have never had a problem with the two that I have owned.

 

[boxcar1]

The Ford E4OD is a four speed automatic transmission designed for rear wheel drive light and medium duty pickup trucks. The transmission is based heavily off the Ford C6 transmission which was a heavy duty three speed automatic. The E4OD is Ford's first electronically controlled transmission. It was first introduced in the full size Bronco's, and remained in product in the Ford E-series, F-series and Expedition through the 1998 model year. The E4OD was eventually replaced by the 4R100 transmission .
As Ford's first attempt at an e controlled transmission it was a gallant effort but suffered problems with the locking torque converter and the fact that the control circuit is shared with the emergency light and brake light circuit.
Never drive with your emergency lights flashing if you own an E4od. You will cook your torque converter.
The trans also suffers from heat build up. Mainly from shifting in and out of over drive at to low of speed . Turn it off when in town and add a good cooler.
All reasons why the E4od had such a short life span before being replaced by the much more reliable 4R100.