need advice on the "drive cycle"

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
So I unhooked the battery when I replaced the plugs, wires, and VC gaskets last week and put on over 250 miles since then, but all of the sensors are still reading "inc" when I went in for emissions testing. I verified it with my scanner and went through the drive cycle I found online but still no dice. I need some advice on how much more driving this might take to get a "ready" from the sensors.
 

Recce03

Ki6MRT
I went through this after replacing the entire engine in my '01 disco. Took me three weeks to get them to clear. 600-800mls or so.


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jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
I went through this after replacing the entire engine in my '01 disco. Took me three weeks to get them to clear. 600-800mls or so.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah, I was afraid of that, read a few threads online and 500 seems to be the average.
 

Recce03

Ki6MRT
From whet I understand, once the controller has seen its life scenarios it will clear. Not mileage based. It includes hot cold cycles, Accelerations at different rates and a bunch of others. I suggest just drive it in sever service (city) like conditions as much as possible until clear.


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Mudrunner

Adventurer
Absolutely not mileage based at least not all of them. Some are counters some are # of good checks. The range is wide. One of the reasons that if you have to pass emissions you should never clear the code, Always let it clear it's self after a fix.
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
Absolutely not mileage based at least not all of them. Some are counters some are # of good checks. The range is wide. One of the reasons that if you have to pass emissions you should never clear the code, Always let it clear it's self after a fix.

Yes, that thing called hindsight is calling my name, definitely will know next time.
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
My understanding is it was done to prevent people from clearing a code to try and pass an emissions test.

Just got off the phone with Mitsubishi and it was actually an issue with the ECU itself, they had a recall and apparently mine was never replaced. If you clear a code on any car it still takes 50-100 miles of driving to have the sensors read as "ready", so you can't simply clear a code around the corner and pull into the inspection station and pass.
 

SoCalMonty

Explorer
Just so you all have an idea of what the ECU might be looking for, this is the readiness drive cycle for a Volvo 850:

Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.

1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine.

This procedure must be performed TWICE from a cold start to set the readiness codes.

The Mitsu won't be exactly the same, but you can see the variety of situations that must be recorded in order for the readiness checks to compete. If yours is still having issues, hopefully the new ECU will fix it. Good luck!
 

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