Need help asap in driveway and mad

[Nullifier]

Ok guys My wifes 06 jetta had the rear pads go out at 57K I decided to replace them myself since the dealer wanted an arm and a leg. Now I know why, it has these stupid screw style calipers that I have never had before. I got the d side done but have been trying to compress the pass side caliper for 2 hours with no luck. I have been trying a combination of things from pressure with a clamp the twist with channel locks. Also using needle nose pliers and pushing straight down while I turned. I went to napa and they have a tool but the only difference is I get to snap that only a 3/8 drive rachet so that will not do any good either since it does not apply down force. I also tried backing off the bleeder valve with no luck.

I am just about to light the damn car on fire and call the insurance company to come get eh POS! Please help me if you can!!!!

 

[motomech]

STOLEN FROM http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3854318




Release parking brake, take off the two lock bolts and you should be able to remove caliper from its mounting position...remove pads...now to retract piston to make room for thicker new pads....you MUST turn the piston clockwise as you press it back into the caliper. Two ways to do this...ez...go to Auto zone which loans out "caliper retracting tool" it has a bunch of attachments so find the one that just fits into the notches on the piston, put that on the tool and crank away...Harder..just use a pair of needle nosed pliers to engage the notches, put caliper on something sturdy (I use a big block 'o wood to hold it up hi so you don't stress brake hose)..then you bear down on it and twist...can be done, but way harder than with the retractor tool, so I'd strongly recommend laying you hands on one of those!

 

[laurie-the-lorry]

Shade tree mechanic!

I have in the past with VW's. leave the caliper in place. Insert the outer brake pad.... And then use a narrow screwdriver shank to rotate the inner piston in!

You must MUST rotate... Applying a clamp like devise to push the piston back in will have a negative effect....

If you have tried clamping it in without rotating I suggest pushing the brake pedal a little. Thereby easing the piston out. Rub the scuff off the piston and rotate back in.

If all else fails a big hammer on the hood seems to scare them into co-operation

 

[laurie-the-lorry]

Oh,

And as an afterthought, and I do not with to insult your inteligence. But ensure you have the filler cap on the fluid reservoir removed.

And possibly get somebody to VERY GENTLY apply pressure on the brake pedal whilst you hold the inside piston. You will feel it twist. And now all you have to do is twist it in the opposite direction.

Sounds easy from here!But I know what its like when the light is running out and so is your patience!

Good luck!

 

[Nullifier]

Well thanks for all the replys. After 4hr I finally got both sides done. I swear this is yet another reason I am building not buying my next D.D. The first d side went like butter once I figured out it was a twist style. The pass side was crazy. After a 30 minute break and coming back to read your replies I decided to wedge the caliper between the unibody and trailing arm. Then I got both hands on the pliers and push in with everything I had a twisted. Of course by only getting a half turn it took awhile but it got there. Thanks God that is over just a crazy ending to a crazy week where things that were supposed to go easy went to hell in a hand basket quickly LOL!

The intersting thing is that this car had the rear brakes go out before the fronts. Both the pass side pads were about 50% the driver side pads were not ok. the outside pad was about 75% worn the inside pad was about 98% worn I was amazed that the rivet heads were not visible based on the remaining pad thinkness. I am guessing they were sticking on the d side. I will now personally inspect the pads with every tire rotation to make sure there is not a bigger issue at play. I guess the vw techs did not want to pony up for that one and raise a flag for a possible warranty issue with a caliper. I am going to save the pads for comparison sake after the next 50K.

Once again guys thanks! This is why expo is awesome.

 

[Rallyroo]

Hmmm, I learned something new. I never heard of the screw type piston brake calipers. Come to think of it, I never worked on a VW before.

 

[slooowr6]

The same thing happened to me. I gave up and put everything back the first time I tried to replace the rear pad on my Audi. Later I learn this is the tool that you need: http://www.trackhaus.com/disc-brake-caliper-wind-back-tool-kit-p-706.html

 

[Nullifier]

The same thing happened to me. I gave up and put everything back the first time I tried to replace the rear pad on my Audi. Later I learn this is the tool that you need: http://www.trackhaus.com/disc-brake-caliper-wind-back-tool-kit-p-706.html

Yep that would have done it right there!!! I guess I will debate about ordering it however I probably will drop the $45.0 on it since I am willing to bet more and more manufacturers will got o the design.

 

[motomech]

My local auto parts place will rent tools like that
Say the tool costs $50...you pay $50 get the tool,use it then return it and get your deposit back or you can just keep the tool:Mechanic:

 

[cruiser guy]

There's another reason why I like "old iron"!

 

[j_nigrelli]

if you had worked for 4 hours at your job, how much could you have earned?

 

[atavuss]

the easiest way I have found to retract the screw type pistons is to remove the rotor and bolt the caliper back on its mount, this way you have both hands free to screw the piston in with the tool. YMMV

 

[Nullifier]

if you had worked for 4 hours at your job, how much could you have earned?

I have replaced a ton of brakes in my day and It usually takes me about 20 minutes per side including tire removal and replacement. So the fact I was thrown a curve ball is not really a common thing. I understand your point but your not talking to a first timer who is figuring out how to use a jack. Besides even it was my first rodeo, it is always better to encourage d.i.y. then shop repair. Everyone starts some where you know.

 

[cruiser guy]

Besides even it was my first rodeo, it is always better to encourage d.i.y. then shop repair. Everyone starts some where you know.

As someone who has had a licenced national chain screw up a brake job I'd prefer to do it myself so I KNOW it's done right!!

 

[BigAl]

if you had worked for 4 hours at your job, how much could you have earned?

4hrs? Not enough for a brake job If you clear $100,000 after taxes, 4 hours is only ~$196. The last estimate I saw for rotors and pads for one end was $400. DIY = better:safari-rig: