chet6.7
Explorer
I don't know.
Every option has pluses and minuses,we have to weight them and make our decisions,and then change them a couple of times.
Need Ideas for Second Battery Installation
- Thread starter Exeter
- Start date
Every option has pluses and minuses,we have to weight them and make our decisions,and then change them a couple of times.
You are not even going to fit a set of AA batteries in the location in front of the radiator on a 4th gen CTD. Have you looked behind the grill? There's like 5 different radiators stacked there.
Edit. Now I se you might have been talking about the mount beside the frame rail. You won't fit two batteries there. I had to go with a single Grp34 due to height. I tried a 27 and it was too tall.
Ducky's Dad
Explorer
You are not even going to fit a set of AA batteries in the location in front of the radiator on a 4th gen CTD.
OP is running a 4G 1500 gasser, so for him the radiator idea should work. Would not work on any CTD, 3G or 4G or otherwise. I have not looked behind the grill on an EcoDiesel but might work there.
Now I se you might have been talking about the mount beside the frame rail. You won't fit two batteries there. I had to go with a single Grp34 due to height. I tried a 27 and it was too tall.
If two batteries fit under a PW, why wouldn't they fit under a CTD? The PW is somewhat "encumbered" by the factory skid plates and the factory holes for the now discontinued rock rails, but there is plenty of space for a pair of 34s, laid on their sides. I started with 34s on the PW build because at that time we had three other trucks that all used 34s or 34/78s, so I had a ready supply of that size battery. If doing this again, I would try to find a way to fit 24s or 27s under there because there are lots of true deep cycle batteries in those sizes, but very scarce in 34. When I replaced my Optima 34s last summer, the only TDC 34 AGM that I could find was a V-Max wheelchair battery, and I felt lucky to find those. The issue with 24/27/31 is that they are too tall, and when laid on their sides the terminals are very close to the insides of the rocker panels. I thought about retrofitting a couple of those into my 34 boxes but had visions of accidentally welding a wrench to the rockers. Starting from scratch, I think something could be worked out. On my 3G, I'm pretty sure I could get three 34s on the passenger frame rail if I worked around the skid plate mounts. One could also hang a pair of batteries under the passenger cab and another pair under the driver's cab, but that would be overkill. If a little is good, a lot is better, though.
I'll find some pics of the frame mounts for Chet, probably tonight.
OP is running a 4G 1500 gasser, so for him the radiator idea should work. Would not work on any CTD, 3G or 4G or otherwise. I have not looked behind the grill on an EcoDiesel but might work there.
Now I se you might have been talking about the mount beside the frame rail. You won't fit two batteries there. I had to go with a single Grp34 due to height. I tried a 27 and it was too tall.
If two batteries fit under a PW, why wouldn't they fit under a CTD? The PW is somewhat "encumbered" by the factory skid plates and the factory holes for the now discontinued rock rails, but there is plenty of space for a pair of 34s, laid on their sides. I started with 34s on the PW build because at that time we had three other trucks that all used 34s or 34/78s, so I had a ready supply of that size battery. If doing this again, I would try to find a way to fit 24s or 27s under there because there are lots of true deep cycle batteries in those sizes, but very scarce in 34. When I replaced my Optima 34s last summer, the only TDC 34 AGM that I could find was a V-Max wheelchair battery, and I felt lucky to find those. The issue with 24/27/31 is that they are too tall, and when laid on their sides the terminals are very close to the insides of the rocker panels. I thought about retrofitting a couple of those into my 34 boxes but had visions of accidentally welding a wrench to the rockers. Starting from scratch, I think something could be worked out. On my 3G, I'm pretty sure I could get three 34s on the passenger frame rail if I worked around the skid plate mounts. One could also hang a pair of batteries under the passenger cab and another pair under the driver's cab, but that would be overkill. If a little is good, a lot is better, though.
I'll find some pics of the frame mounts for Chet, probably tonight.
Ducky's Dad
Explorer
Here are some pics for Chet6.7. This is the first box that I cooked up, came from Summit Racing. I added a length of angle iron across the top with lip pointing toward the centerline of the truck so that It would hang on the top of the frame rail and not put the bolts in shear. Also makes it easier to install on the truck because it's necessary to bolt the battery into the box and then jack the whole assembly into place while you slide bolts through the frame. I added another length of angle iron to the bottom of the box with the lip supporting the back edge of the box. I think the angle iron is 2x2x3/16, and both pieces are gusseted. I also welded a smaller piece of angle iron across the bottom front of the box to protect the battery from impacts. The 2x2 angle takes some of the weight off the bolts but also allows you to use factory frame holes or put new ones where you want. My first battery was a DieHard Platinum (Odyssey) 34/78 because it was on sale. Subsequent batteries in that box were Odyssey 1500, Optima Marine 34, and now a V-Max TDC 34, all AGMs because batteries had to be mounted on their sides to tuck them up against the cab floor. No part of the box hangs below the frame rail. I used GR8 bolts, just because, and big fender washers on the inside face of the frame. I had planned to put crush sleeves in the frame but after drilling it decided I didn't need sleeves. The white plastic blocks in the box are poly spacers from a cutting board to keep the battery from moving in the box. When you are fabbing the box, make sure the bracing is not too close to the battery posts because you need room for connectors and wrenching. The second box came later, but if I were doing it again I'd try to fit bigger batteries and would probably fab a single long box to take two batteries end to end. First iteration was wired with 1/0 cable but when I went with the second battery under there, I also upgraded the alternator to 270 amps so rewired with 3/0. It is possible to fish the cable through the inside of the frame rail to get it to the engine compartment but it takes a bit of fiddling. Since my fridge rides on the back seat platform, I have a Blue Seas rotary switch back there that allows me to dial in one or both batteries to run the fridge or to support winching. Having the ability to isolate one of the house batteries when desired means that I can always self jump if necessary. Battery management is pretty simple because I have a Painless Performance solenoid isolator controlled from a dash toggle, so I can isolate of combine any or all of the batteries at will. Truck will start and run from any of the three batteries, even if the starter battery is out of the truck. I will be adding a Renogy 100W panel to the roof rack as soon as I can get to it. Have all the parts, just need some free time.
Oilbrnr
Active member
Thanks!
I move that right Milwaukee box and sleep on the PS side. Thin inflatable pad on the Bedrug is actually fairly comfy. Usually it is just me, but if someone else comes one of us is outside in ARB swag. I had a RTT on the Lexus, but sold it. I like aspects of it, but this is easier with parking garages. ;-)
Yeah WK. They are heavy but need to be to support the rig.
It's a whole dual swing out bumper. I don't recommend the company that made it, so I'm not going to advertise here.
No build thread.
chet6.7
Explorer
Batteries do explode,folks are free to make informed decisions.That's a nice albeit costly setup. What happens if you submerge that setup?
And pics of what exactly. Someone actually claiming a hydrogen fire? The really ironic part is you have to TRY to create the conditions where that's possible. As in trying to seal a regular battery up in a box. It's the only way you can even drive the gas mix to a dangerous ratio. Hydrogen is a slippery little devil. Actual rocket scientists even have trouble trying to contain it. It's not going to build up in a vehicle passenger compartment unless you make every Bubba-Engineering attempt to ensure that it does.
Somebody better alert BMW that what a major automotive company noted for their engineering skills and with potentially billions of dollars in legal exposure that they're doing it wrong.
Or maybe VW
"it's not the odds,it's the stakes "
That's as bad as that 'buy once, cry once' justification crapola.
Battery exploded
www.cumminsforum.com
Last edited:
vintageracer
To Infinity and Beyond!
Use a totally sealed spiral wound battery such as an Odyssey or Optima battery.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Batteries do explode,folks are free to make informed decisions.
Battery exploded
again, the difference between possibility and probability is vast. And your assertion leave out all context or causation. Overcharge a battery and it can bulge / blow. Create a massive dead short and it can overheat and blow. Treat all batteries as incipient bombs? That nonsense.
There's probably a higher incidence of people dying just after eating carrots. Better ban carrots, using your illogic.