Need input on battery charger

kjg26

Observer
I've narrowed down my charging options to either a Noco genius or Minn Kota. This will be a single bank charger. Charging, at this time a single battery with 125aH. Recommended charging current of 8A to 35A and voltage of 14.4-14.9 V. Could possibly add another battery at a later time there will be we won't run as one single bank with this one

I'm considering

Minn Kota mk106d. Single bank 6amp
Mk106pc single bank 6amp.
Mk110pc single bank 10amp
Mk115pc single bank 15amp

Genius. G7200. Single bank 7.2amp
G15000. Single bank 15amp
G26000 single bank 26amp
GenM1 single bank 4amp
Gen1 single bank 10amp

Thoughts
 

kjg26

Observer
Charging, at this time, a single 125aH battery for an offroad m416 based trailer. I will have it wired to the tow vehicle but would like the option to plug the trailer in to shore power or a generator.
 

1Louder

Explorer
I have this installed in my trailer and it works fine. Not sure why you would want a portable version. It really depends on what your battery manufacturer recommends though.

NOCO Genius GEN1 10 Amp 1-Bank Waterproof Smart On-Board Battery Charger
by NOCO
Link: http://amzn.com/B00CBTRN26
 

kjg26

Observer
What can yall tell me about the ctek. There seems to be a bunch of different ones and I'm confused.
 

kjg26

Observer
What size battery are you running


Ctek is a very nice system. Although it looks to be a lot more expensive ones all said and done. Start with a charger. Then add dual system. Then add a smart pass. My system would be just a VSR and a charger. At least for now. Don't have any immediate plans for solar, a couple years down the road at the soonest.
 

zelatore

Explorer
Do you prefer a fixed mount charger that you simply connect to shore power when the trailer is home, or a portable unit you can use on any battery but have to manually connect? You also didn't mention what type of battery you are using - AGM for example can take a much higher charge current and thus a larger/faster charger.

It looks like the MinnKota stuff you linked to is fixed while the Noco is a portable. Pluses to each of course.

I own a Noco G26000 and have used it to maintain stuff up to group 31 on occasion, but I work in the marine world where I install or work with a variety of different fixed mount chargers. Usually multi-bank units. I've never worked with MinnKota since they cater to the bass boat boys, and haven't reviewed the specs on their equipment. I see a lot of ProMariner's new ProNautic stuff as OEM on mid-size boats these days. Usually 3 bank stuff around 30 amp. At the cheaper end of the spectrum I've installed plenty of their ProSport series. You might like it's price and versitilty; able to be configured as 1, 2, or 3 bank. Mastervolt has been gaining market share in the US as well on larger yachts and offers a wide range of options. And again on the cheaper end I've been seeing more Kisae stuff show up but not as OEM. Charles is another big player in the marine world. Marinco and Blue Seas also offer chargers.

As an aside, if you are going fixed mount you might consider an inverter/charger.
 

kjg26

Observer
This will be a fixed amount unit mounted inside the tongue box with the battery. The battery is a AGM SLR 125 from vmax tanks. I think I have it narrowed down between a NOCO Marine single Bank 10 amp charger , Minn Kota precision 10 amp single bank charger and possibly ctek unit. I will speak with him tomorrow. I will look into the other names listed. Want something that will be vibration resistant as well as Splash or waterproof
 

1Louder

Explorer
This will be a fixed amount unit mounted inside the tongue box with the battery. The battery is a AGM SLR 125 from vmax tanks. I think I have it narrowed down between a NOCO Marine single Bank 10 amp charger , Minn Kota precision 10 amp single bank charger and possibly ctek unit. I will speak with him tomorrow. I will look into the other names listed. Want something that will be vibration resistant as well as Splash or waterproof

Did you go to the manufacturers web site? It looks like they want you to use a 15amp charger. They do say a 7amp will work so you going with a 10amp may be fine.

http://www.vmaxtanks.com/SLR125-AGM-Solar-Battery-_p_38.html

VMAXTANKS BC1215 15 Amp 12 Volt 7 Stage Heavy Duty Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer for AGM, GEL, SLA, & Automobile Batteries. Charge, maintain and restore your car, suv, or truck's 12V battery
by VMAXTANKS
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IZV91Q0
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Charging, at this time, a single 125aH battery for an offroad m416 based trailer. I will have it wired to the tow vehicle but would like the option to plug the trailer in to shore power or a generator.


With reference to this statement, are you talking about just charging or maintaining the battery while it's in storage, or while actually camping?

If you are talking about while camping, you should first figure out what your maximum daily Ah usage will be. Once this is determined, you can choose a charger size that will be able to keep up with your daily useage. Since the SLR125 AGM is a deep cycle battery, you can safely take it down to 50%, but if the charger is too small you are still going to be waiting on it to bring the battery back up before you can move on. An 8A charger is the absolute smallest charger recommended for this battery. If you're planning on using 110VAC lights and appliances when shore power or generator power is available, then this may not be an issue.

My advice is to get the largest 4 stage charger this battery can handle, which appears to be 35A, especially if you plan on adding another battery in the future. Charging with your vehicle's alternator or Solar will help offset the smaller charger, but I would still get one larger than 10A, maybe a 25A.

The following is from Mr. Frederick B. Cook (US Ambassador, Retired), who has been all over the world in an Overland Expedition Vehicle called Ndeka Luka (Sango for “Freebird”).

How Long Does it Take to Fully Recharge?

In other words, how hard is the problem? Lifeline provides the following formula for temperatures between 68 and 86F.

Time to reach full charge = [(Depth of Discharge/100) x Rated Capacity (Ah) / Rated output of charger (A)] + 2 hours.

Thus a 100 Ah battery, discharged 50% with a 25A charger would take:[(50/100) x 100/25] + 2 = 4 hours to reach full charge.

If a 10A charger is used, it would take: [(50/100) x 100/10] + 2 = 7 hours to reach full charge.
https://cookfb.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/electrical-power-for-the-overland-camper-the-problem.pdf

http://lifelineb.wpengine.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/manual.pdf

You may purchase a 10A charger and it work out fine for you, if you don't mind waiting all day to recharge the battery(s). But, I'm the kind of person that prepares for the worst case scenario and tends to overbuild everything, especially when it comes to electrical. In my case, I'm running 4 Trojan T-105 6V deep cycle batteries in a series/parallel configuration. I'm using a Magnum Energy MS2012 Inverter/Charger (100A charge) to charge them with. I also have a Honda EU3000I generator on board and will be adding 480 Watts of Solar Panels at some point.

See what I mean...overkill!! :)
 
Last edited:

patoz

Expedition Leader
Did you go to the manufacturers web site? It looks like they want you to use a 15amp charger. They do say a 7amp will work so you going with a 10amp may be fine.

http://www.vmaxtanks.com/SLR125-AGM-Solar-Battery-_p_38.html

VMAXTANKS BC1215 15 Amp 12 Volt 7 Stage Heavy Duty Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer for AGM, GEL, SLA, & Automobile Batteries. Charge, maintain and restore your car, suv, or truck's 12V battery
by VMAXTANKS
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IZV91Q0


I would like to know where they are coming up with 7 Stages. The best smart chargers on the market only advertise 4 stages, and they are:

• Stage 1 is called Bulk or Boost Charge. When a battery is 50% to 90% charged it will take a charge very quickly. A smart charger senses the battery voltage and supplies maximum current at an increasing voltage level to attain a nearly full charge.

• Stage 2 is called Absorption or Acceptance. At this stage voltage is held at a preset maximum level while current slowly tapers off until the battery is 100% charged. Depending on the type of battery the optimum charge voltage varies, based on temperature, from as low as 13.8 volts to around 15.5 volts.

• Stage 3 is called Float. After a battery is fully charged it requires a lower voltage to maintain its charge while waiting to be used. This is typically 13.5 volts for regular lead/acid flooded cell batteries, and 13.4 volts for AGM batteries. As with stage 2, the optimum voltage varies with temperature.

• Another, 4th stage is known as Conditioning or Equalizing. This involves taking the batteries up to a higher voltage level, about 15.6 volts (or 1 volt higher than Stage 2 if you are using temperature control), for several hours. This ensures all battery cells are equally charged. This is only required when the batteries show signs of decreased capacity. This stage is commonly required for flooded lead acid batteries. With AGM batteries, it varies with manufacturer.
https://cookfb.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/electrical-power-for-the-overland-camper-the-problem.pdf
 

chet6.7

Explorer
I have a Ctek charger,it seems to do the job.The NOCO 12v plugs I bought are junk,there is a guy on youtube that took a NOCO charger apart he was less than impressed,I think someone posted a link to that video in the past few weeks.
 

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