Need some help.....

[Carolyn]

Hi all. Need some advice. I've got a 2011 JK 4 door. I spend a lot of time in the backcountry... camping... for my work/passion. I'm a landscape photographer. This is my 2nd jeep. First one was a Commander.

As I add stuff (Garvin Wilderness Rack, Kilby JK FLoor Kit, EVAP relocate and skid, under seat lock box, Tuffy cubby lock, Rubi rails, Ace Rock Rails, Oil pan skid...) I'm losing ground clearance. To date, no lift, 17" Mojave rims and 265/70/17R Goodyear Duratrac tires.

I just returned from the Hollister Hills rally/workshop trip. During the workshop (basic) on the (easy) obstacle course, I had to keep going around the obstacles, due to lack of clearance (that stock vehicles should have been able to accomplish).

I change my own oil, and it's much tighter *down there* for me to wheel around. And during the trip up to Hollister (loaded) I even rubbed a rear tire in a hole of the highway...

If you're still with me... I'm seriously considering the Full Traction 3" Premium Plus no maintenance SRS system.

Any reason not to? I'm kind of figuring it will really only lift maybe 2.5" over what used to be stock... 'cause of what I've apparently already lost. And that would be fine by me...

Thoughts?

One more thing. I'd consider waiting for their (or AEV's) coming 2.5" lift, however in about 3 weeks, I have to load up with about 10 large framed photographs, 6 large museum cases full of photographs, all my gear and head from SoCal to the mountains in Northern Utah, where I spend the next 6 months up in my cabin... and it WILL be a large load. So, I'm kind of wanting to take care of this now.

 

[Hilldweller]

Hi Carolyn! It's good to see you on this forum.

I like the AEV lifts for real life; I also like Rock Krawler and Old Man Emu. Whichever lift you get, make sure the springs match the added weight of your rig. Also be aware of caster loss as you lift and make sure the new bits address that; cheaper lifts leave you on your own to find control arms or cambolts.

I don't like to crawl on the ground to disconnect swaybars so I'm fond of Currie's Antirock kits instead of quick discos.
Whatever you get, go for the comprehensive kit. Cheap springs sag; cheap dampers fade. Cheap control arms bend. Cheap trackbar relocation brackets shear bolts off or break.

Post a picture or two from Hollister... ...I know you must have something speacial to share.

EDIT: I'd match the small lift with some 33" tires and 16" wheels with proper backspacing.
Procomp wheels worked for me and I got them at a good price (thank you, Dustin from 4WParts); and Cooper Discoverer STT tires in the inexpensive 285/75-16 were my favorite tires.

 

[Carolyn]

Thanks for your reply Bill!
The Full Traction 3" SRS is a complete kit. There was a fellow at Hollister Hills that used to drive for Ferrari.... he had just had it installed (at the factory in Bakersfield) and gave me compelling reasons why he chose this kit. I just don't want to get over my head with lift... and have to be worrying about drivelines (CV boots etc...) but feel if it IS a 3" lift, I'll most likely get less than that from the original stock height - due to the weight I've added and will carry. The kit is actually on the expensive side... not at all cheap. More to it that OME, less added height than AEV, and they don't use brackets to address angles. You can see it here.

As far as tires go, I have *new* 17" wheels (American Racing/Mojave Teflon - 4.5" backspacing) and also recently (before more weight was added and I realized I needed a lift) put on the Goodyear Duratrac 265/70/17 tires. Discount will work with me, and I may be able to switch them out for 185's to cover up a bit more wheel well space... I just bought this rig (new/stock/sport) end of June... and have been building it to get in the backcountry for my work since then....
Hollister was great fun. I LOVED meeting all the folks there.... Chris from Julian an absolute kick :sombrero: Pictures will come before too long.... I left there, and drove to Baja for a week... just got back to SoCal.

Thanks TONS for your input (and your lead that got me here....)

 

[Carolyn]

So - is anyone out there running this kit? Or know anything (good/bad) about it?
Since I have at least .5" sag - will installing a 3" lift look ridiculous on my tires? Do I need to change them out? (It is possible... just costly since they are new - less than 4K on them now)...
Trying to do this right... and not look back saying *shoulda woulda coulda*...

 

[Hilldweller]

I don't know anybody with Full Traction around here; it looks comprehensive though.
I'd still use the Currie Antirock for your purposes along with it ---- call FT and tell them about it and see what they say; it should be compatible but with a few different parts. It will allow greater articulation of your front end without any extra hassle.

And you're putting the wrong digit on your tire size; I think you're meaning 265 width not 165 ---- which is a fairly small tire for getting over things. I had lots of success with 33" tires --- on your 17s that would be 285/70-17. I've got 295/70-17 right now and they give me just a tad more umph to get over things (breakover angle being what it is).

The "sag" is a matter of spring rate, not lift, per se. 3" of lift with the right spring rate and dampers will set you up nicely with your wheelbase so that you're not dragging your transfer case on things; the 33s will give your diffs a little more clearance. Make sure that the FT springs are stouter than stock for the extra weight.
You don't have to swap tires right away but I would at the next change.

Are you still running stock gears too? Bigger tires like deeper gears...
Do you have an auto or manual?

 

[Carolyn]

Oops.... first cuppa on it's way....without coffee - I'm hopeless. Yes..... 265. Duh.
The spring rate is considerably higher than the stock.... even though I have a tow package.
Running 3.73 currently with auto... which is why I don't want to go bigger than 33's... and no problems loaded, up the Grapevine at 60 mph... at 2800rpm. I can live with that. For now anyway. One day down the road (lots more photographs sold) I'll look at 4.88's. Until then, smaller tires... it's really not bad at all. In fact, no problem getting up Big Cottonwood Canyon in Utah (where I live winter/spring). The highway up to Park City was a little tough though...
Thanks for the tip on the Currie stuff.... will talk to them when they return from SEMA. Have an appointment (at the factory) to install a week from Tuesday...... still time to change my mind or whatever...

 

[The Swiss]

Well, I had been going the cheap route the last 4 years and will continue going the cheap route: 2.5" Teraflex spacer up front and 1 3/4 Daystar spacer in the rear, together with the stock 32" BFG KM or 33" BFG KM2 (on my previous JKU). Rides well on the road and works good off road too. Not sure what your definition is of "basic" and "easy", I do sometimes use the belly skid plates, but never really feel limited by the break-over angle.

 

[Bigjerm]

I tend to go the same route as Swiss. When I had a 4 door Rubicon I had the 2.5" Teraflex budget boost kit with shock relocators. Did just fine for me and looked great with the stock 32's. My current Jeep, the LJ, has a 2" ProComp lift. Its cheap and the ride is not always great but I am young and absorb the bumps well. I also beat my Jeep every time I wheel it. Eventually I will upgrade, maybe a more complete 3" kit and put on some 37's, new axles... :drool:

The Antirock is a whole other beast. 1 of my favorite mods by far. I run it on the next to softest setting. Great flex but still has a decent body roll to it. The biggest seller of the Antirock (to me) is the increased traction gained by its ability to keep a down force on the tires.

 

[Carolyn]

Michael and Bigjerm...... thanks for your views/info on this. More homework today..... I'm 99% certain I'll be keeping my appointment at the Full Traction factory, for install of their 3" Premium Plus lift. Now - must decide on any extras.

One thing I REALLY like, the parts are made in the USA.... and their customer relations so far are top notch. I've talked with at least 3 other 4x4 install places, that I'm still (3 days later) awaiting a return call..... imo that's just bad business relations. What's up with that (particularly) in today's economy?

 

[Ryanc]

I have worked on numerous lifts and ridden in numerous JKs the past couple years. First things first, if you want to sway like a sail boat in 10 foot seas get the Currie Antirock. On road handling with that system is nerve racking to say the least, however. If you are off camber on the side of a mountain and face the risk of plummeting 500ft to your death, then the anti rock will be your best friend. It will allow you to articulate just enough and provide excellent stability. Much less roll then with completely disconnecting.

Fulltraction is a great kit, so is teraflex, rock krawler, AEV, OME and the list goes on. It sounds like you may be hauling some weight around, I would consider the AEV kit. You get progressive coils, finely tuned Bilsteins. The drop brackets will get your caster and driveline angle in check. The drop brackets will keep you from having to adjust your control arms. I would also consider the OME kit. Dave can hook you up with a sweet OME set up which I would highly consider. Call Dave at Northridge4x4 and say Ryan sent you.

 

[Hilldweller]

It should be noted that Swiss has/had Rubicons and didn't need an Antirock system; he had swaybar disconnect at his fingertip.

I had a TF 2.5" puck lift with their shocks. The shocks were better than stock but not as good as Bilsteins, not by a longshot. And I sheared the bolt on the trackbar relocation bracket on the first trip offroad.
The kit did nothing for the front trackbar; the swaybar links looked nightmare-ish. It also failed to address caster and the Jeep wandered badly.
I had to address/correct all the short-comings on my own, after the fact.

If you've never driven a properly lifted Jeep, a badly lifted one seems pretty good. There's a huge difference in performance and ride quality (shall we add "safety" too?) with a good lift.
Remember that 2.5" of lift changes several of the dynamics of the Jeep. It's a game of dominos. Scrub radius is affected, pitch/roll/yaw, braking, etc. It can be handled well or it can just be handled...

 

[Carolyn]

Ryanc, thanks for your knowledgeable reply. Trying to learn as much as possible... understand, and make a decision I won't look back on with regret.
Will be using Bilsteins with the Fulltraction kit. AEV, is 3.5", vs. 3" from Fulltraction. That IS only .5 inch, but it's .5 inch closer to worrying about drive line issues? The fellow that recommended FT to me (engineer, driver for Ferrari) said he liked the FT better than AEV because of the numerous brackets that AEV uses. I don't pretend to understand this. But I am being swayed by his recommendation due to the fact that he is/was a braniac re:automobiles. The kit from OME, doesn't look as though it addresses control arms/sway bars etc... Looks to just be springs and shocks? So much to try and learn.... arghhhhhhhhhhh
Thank you again for your input here. And yes.... I am hauling weight even unloaded. The list is in my first post. Lots of steel added, and a bit more to come (bumper/second battery...)

 

[Carolyn]

Hi Bill. I'm not big on things manufactured in China. At least not mechanical parts that I have to rely on. It's my understanding that TF parts are manufactured in China. (Yes I know most things sold here are now)
Driving my jeep, control in the snow snow/ice on narrow (think one car width plus about a foot on either side) is imperative. I go down, then up that narrow road every day in the winter/spring that I choose to drive away from home. And then down the mountain. So just everyday living/driving involves mountain driving, on many times, unplowed roads. I really don't want to add tip to the equation... which is why I'm trying so hard to keep my CG low, but gain clearance (right... that's a bit of an oxymoron)... That's why I'm so concerned about doing this right. Not going to high. But getting clearance for those washed out roads in south eastern Utah (spring during a big runoff) and Baja.... :sombrero:

And..... not spending hard earned money un-necessarily. (Haven't had my coffee yet)

 

[Hilldweller]

Look at the Rock Krawler 2.5" lift with Billies.
It's good to look around a bit ---- nothing wrong with the direction you're going either.
You don't need much in the way of altitude to clear 33s. 2.5" is a nice height with a JK, especially with wheels with 5.5" BS.

http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=339

 

[Ryanc]

Hi Bill. I'm not big on things manufactured in China. At least not mechanical parts that I have to rely on. It's my understanding that TF parts are manufactured in China. (Yes I know most things sold here are now)
Driving my jeep, control in the snow snow/ice on narrow (think one car width plus about a foot on either side) is imperative. I go down, then up that narrow road every day in the winter/spring that I choose to drive away from home. And then down the mountain. So just everyday living/driving involves mountain driving, on many times, unplowed roads. I really don't want to add tip to the equation... which is why I'm trying so hard to keep my CG low, but gain clearance (right... that's a bit of an oxymoron)... That's why I'm so concerned about doing this right. Not going to high. But getting clearance for those washed out roads in south eastern Utah (spring during a big runoff) and Baja.... :sombrero:

And..... not spending hard earned money un-necessarily. (Haven't had my coffee yet)

I would rely more on reputation vs manufacture country or origin. Manufacturing is so global that rarely is anything 100% made in one country. You have the spaniard digging up the ore with the Japanese hauler, transported to the factory, processed by Italians, then forged by Mexicans on a machine made in Germany ,etc etc etc. Granted the Chinese make a lot of cheap ****, but honestly, so do we.